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Manitou Mattoc Air Spring issues

Jul 17, 2014 at 15:44
by scar 4me  
I recently came across an odd issue with my Mantiou Mattoc's so thought I'd share my findings.....
Firstly this was all problematic due to Manitou not publishing any service documentation for the forks yet!

So for reference on the Air Spring internals I pulled the Manitou Dorado service manual:
http://www.manitoumtb.com/assets/Service Manuals/2012 Dorado Pro Service Manual.pdf

My forks weren't pumping up correctly.
The positive and negative chambers weren't equalizing, and it felt like I was only pressurising the negative chamber.
When disconnecting the pump and cycling the fork, it suddenly firmed right up, so much so I had to release pressure out.
The air spring felt variable and inconsistent, switching from soft to firm when in use.

This turns out to be an issue with the Poppet valve used to pressurize the fork.
This is the middle part of the valve that the pump should connect with to open the valve to both chambers, and should protrude from the valve itself by 1mm. (Pg20 Section 14)
When inspecting my fork the valve was recessed into the fork by ~2mm, so wasn't opening up the valve correctly when connecting the pump causing my issues.
This also means that the valve isn't in the correct position inside the fork, so can move slightly during use, causing the positive and negative chambers to equalize when you really don't want them too!

So to fix it.......
Simple 2.5mm allen key in the middle of the air piston, and undo the poppet untill it appears protruding from the bottom valve by 1mm.
Fig22, and picture below show the correct position.
Manitou Mattoc poppet valve check. Undo 2.5mm allen key Fig22 untill it appears 1mm protruding from the bottom as the picture below it.


Manitou Travel adjustment Exploded diagrams
Manitou Mattoc Exploded diagram. Note 27.5in Version has an extended HBO on the rebound assembly. Trying to convert the 27.5 version to 170mm travel for 26in wheel without replacing the HBO assembly will result in harsh physical bottom out in the damper internals before the air cart bottoms out. This will ruin your fork damper and cause major damage

A cheat way for stripping the fork without the need for the thin wall socket for the air side, just use a 4mm allen socket in the valve.
It's slightly annoying fighting with the spring in the valve, but it's way easier and safer than risking stripping the nut thread with a poor fitting socket or filing a socket down.
Another trick if using the 4mm allen key method, is when putting the lowers back on compress them so you can seat with 1 turn on either side, then fully extend fork pulling hard and releasing any pressure in the air valve. Tighten both bolts whilst the fork is fully extended.
This is needed to make sure there isn't any vaccum inside the lowers that disrupts the balance of the forks air spring.

Then go ride and enjoy!


P.s. Make sure you put the exact 3cc (confirmed from Manitou tech support) of lubrication oil in the air chamber. DO NOT exceed this, as the excess will flow down into the negative chamber and ruin the ride of your fork when you next change the air pressure with the forks upright on the bike.

Author Info:
scar4me avatar

Member since Sep 4, 2001
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11 Comments
  • 1 0
 Pasting the location ads %20 where spaces are located. Access is also achieved at manitoumtb.com, support, service guides, 2012 Dorado Pro service manual

Just in case...

www.manitoumtb.com/assets/Service Manuals/2012 Dorado Pro Service Manual.pdf
  • 1 0
 Link updated.
Reason it didn't work before is the url= part didn't have the URL in.
Link works now.
  • 1 0
 This was very helpful, thanks. It takes a little bit of faith to get the 2.5mm hex wrench inserted far enough. (For the record, for others who find this, Manitou has updated its recommendations--no oil should be added to the air chamber, per www.youtube.com/watch?v=e81ZjaRq3XU)
  • 1 0
 How likely is it that this happens to a 2017 manitou fork? I just pumped some additional air to my Mattoc Comp and it went soft instead of firm, it lost all the travel while riding. I was puzzled.

Then, after leaving it for a couple of hours it firmed up. Same as you, I'm getting random performance here. What would you advise here?
  • 1 1
 Yeah, can happen to any of the Dorado air springs if the valve isn't seating correctly.
Best to check the valve position matches the bottom right on in the pic above.
If it doesn't stick out, or sticks out too much, then the orings that desperate the chambers can cause odd things like you describe.
Would be worth trying another pump also, as they can be picky about some pumps that don't let you disconnect the valve separately (like the ones that just do it as you unscrew it).
  • 1 0
 @scar4me: you trick with 4 mm allen key does not allow to assemble the air spring side back together. Pushing the Allen key depresses the air spring which in turn lowers the spring down and prevents the thread from engaging with the lowers casting.

I have a fork full of oil and I’m wondering how to fix this Big Grin
  • 1 0
 @scar4me: got it. I had unscrew the air spring cap with IVA and push against the piston from the upper side of the tube with a long tube.
  • 1 0
 @keep-rollin: this normally means that you haven't got the right number of travel spacers on bottomout bumper on the airspring. So the damper bottoms out without the air spring bottoming too. This would make the 4mm method not work.
  • 1 0
 just spoke with manitou today, apparently 7cc's is too much oil and 2-3 cc's is more around what is supposed to be put in there.
  • 1 0
 In the event that the air chamber gets more than 7cc of oil and some oil makes it into the negative chamber, how does that ruin the ride of the fork?
  • 1 0
 The negative chamber volume is very small, and any loss of volume in the chamber means the balance shifts. So makes for a harsh initial stroke especially at higher pressures.







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