night-shade

24" 2008 NS Capital frame + NS RNS forks + NS District handlebars Resprayed in a fantastic metallic sea green colour, but unfortunately the primer has not adhered to the frame as well as hoped, so the finish chips easily. Would benefit from being blasted and redone properly, depending on how fussy you are. The colour appears a neon lime green in some photos which it is not, but the photo showing the frame upright represents the colour better. Bars and forks sprayed satin black, holding up a bit better than the paint on the frame but marks here and there too. Frame is in good condition, no cracks that I've been able to see with the only notable point being some marks/scraping under the chainstay. I'm sure I have the original brake mounts somewhere too with new mounting hardware to match. Star nut in the fork steerer tube needs replacing as it doesn't sit well. I also have for sale a 24" wheelset to go with this, rims believed to be Alexrims DM24 - front laced to a WeThePeople Pi V2 hub, rear laced to a (brand new) 9T Magic Flute hub (stupidly loud, 114 points of engagement). Front could do with truing but isn't too bad (just never got round to it), rear I built with new spokes/nipples, lateral trueness pretty much as good as it gets with slight egg which I haven't been able to get out (possibly just how the rim is) but needs final tensioning. Don't think these come up very much now. £140 for the frame/forks/bars and £120 for the wheelset. I do have boxes to allow these to be sent via courier if needed. Do also have a box of new parts which would go a long way towards finishing this including an NS stem, chainrings, chains, grips, pedals, seat, etc.

Hello all, For sale is a custom build using a Carrera Subway frame and rigid fork. The bike is far from standard; the only original parts are the cranks, frame and forks. The bike was built in August only last year, and has some nice parts on it. The frame and forks were sprayed by myself (more on this below) and it's now single speed. Frame: Carrera Subway frame, 18"/M size Forks: Straight blade steel fork Brakes: Hydraulic; Avid Elixir 5 rear, Elixir R front, HS1 160mm rotors Wheels: Rockrider Comp (Rigida) Rims on JT041/120 hubs, Halo skewers/axles Tyres: Specialized Ground Control Front 26x2.10, Fast Trak LK Rear 26x2.00 Bar: Easton EA30 Stem: Planet X Fast 45mm Grips: United G-Slat Tie Dye Pedals: United Valentino Tie Dye Seatpost: Easton EA50 Headset: Cane Creek 44mm Semi-integrated w/carbon spacers and top cap Cranks: SR Suntour XCT Drivetrain: Singlespeed Conversion; 14T Gusset Sprocket, Superstar I/O 30T Chainring, KMC Z510 gold chain The good: Single speed, rigid - lovely to ride, simple but loads of fun. Lovely colour. The 30T chainring is an odd choice, but this way no chain tensioner is needed - the chainline is good and have never had any trouble with the chain coming off. 30T/14T gearing yields an excellent balance between acceleration and speed around the city (about 55 gear inches IIRC) - but everyone has their preferences so you may want to swap sprockets if you wish to suit you and your riding style. New sintered brake pads + rotors, not seen much use since fitted. It's quite unique looking so gets lots of attention and stands out. The bad: The paint - while it looks good from a distance, there are parts where it has come off, from rubbing againt bike stands for example. It's decent for a rattle can job, and will hold up to 'casual' use, but if you use it a lot and it's going to be making contact with many things then you may wish to get it resprayed. It's one of those things that you must judge for yourself depending on your expectations. The frame was sanded down and three even coats applied, and a clear top coat, but since the frame is aluminium it isn't perfect. The fork is steel and this has held up a bit better. The brakes, while they will stop you very quickly, rub a bit - more so on the rear than front. Rear caliper needs to be adjusted to fix this. Both may benefit from a bleed, but they work as is. The seatpost is 27.2mm, which is smaller than the frame's hole so a shim has been used, along with a small piece of a coke can to hold it in place firmly. The top cap nut has become rounded out. If you do need to remove it, I'd hammer in a torx head and remove it this way, and replace the top cap of course. I think that covers most of it. Selling because I stupidly didn't realise the frame is simply too large for me. Offers welcome, and can courier. Feel free to message with any questions and offers, worst I can say is no. Cheers Pav