Jesse221

I’ve used one for years on my 370z and it worked great. My only complaint and I’ve mentioned it to them multiple times yet doesn’t seem to go anywhere is they need a circuit board with 3 pressure sensors and an app to alert you if any cup goes low. I’ve only ever had it happen once where a cup let go and luckily the other two are strong enough to still hold and I wasn’t far down the road when i thought something just didn’t look right (must have seen the shadow rocking more or something) but to think I could have lost my expensive Nomad on the freeway just still always made me want an app with some sensors to warn. Maybe two cups can hold and you can lose one but what happens if two let go? Why have the risk with today’s bike prices. Otherwise it always worked great, never scratched the paint and carried my bike on a sports car, I’d say it does what it should. In fact roof racks always damage the car paint so these are better if you care about your car.

Exactly what I was thinking. I’m 6ft on a L I need the 30mm stack and 35 riser bar for steep riding duh.

Genius move by wolftooth. Copy the best concave pedal (yoshimura) and then semi copy the best convex (oneup) and now you can sell to people who prefer whichever. At lease these are a bit different than the oneup in appearance.

@Vikingdude: oh and then forgot after torquing you have to back it out “approximately 72 degrees or 4 clicks” so again another tolerance, was that 70 or 75 degrees that I turned? After doing enough of them it always takes a few tries before it seems right but even then no two come out the exact same it seems.

@Vikingdude: I’m aware how they’re set and that’s my point. It’s not just a feeler gauge gap either then you have to preload it by turning the HSR rod with a torque screwdriver but then that adds another tolerance of the I rings effecting the torque value, also I’ve had some where once the foot stud is torqued to the shaft there is a light squeeze on the HSR rod, some do it some don’t. Again another tolerance stack up. Then there’s the adjustment nut set “approximately in the center” so it’s not even resting on a hard stop, once again another preload tolerance stack up. The whole design is sloppy and while it works it needs a rework for more consistent values that are all over the place right out of the box. No point in even making a setup guide with a tolerance stack like that.

Although not mentioned there is something obviously visually different. Look at the old in the service manual and then look at the new. Much large round piece under the HSR VVC nut and a new round disc on top as well that didn’t exist before. I just hope they found a way to get the HSR set consistently because the HSR VVC in grip2 is wildly inconsistent between forks.

@olafthemoose: I think CC is mixed manufacturing now with some parts here and other in Taiwan and then assembled here. At one point I believe they were 100% manufactured here on the original CCDB and even then we’re not much more expensive than competitors. As for cars made here the parts are also typically made here in a just in time manufacturing process.