This week in the Vorsprung workshop, we take a look at how low- and high-speed rebound adjustments work, how they interact, and suggest some tuning methods to help you get the best out of your damper. Quite notable with these adjustments is the huge overlap between the effects, as well as the interference they each have with one another. When tuning these, simplification is important, and we show you why that is and how to make setting up your rebound damping as simple as possible.
There are, as always, a few important things to note:
• Simplification to remove variables can be beneficial because it allows you to get to 95-percent of the potential performance ceiling very easily, as opposed to a theoretical 100-percent of the performance ceiling that is very difficult to find.
• Advanced tuning of these two adjusters can go beyond what we suggest in this video; the difficulty is understanding exactly what interference effects you're causing.
Just thinking out loud here.
Starting at bottom out, shaft velocity will start at 0 (due to change in direction) with maximum acceleration, then achieving peak rebound velocity with 0 acceleration then slowing down towards top out (as shown on the right hand graph Steve drew).
So with this stated, with a given damping setting, you can obtain shaft velocities giving the spring position. Things do get a bit more complicated when you utilize air springs and when you factor in external forces acting on the shock during extension. For example if you prejump a drop and then the shock starts extending towards peak rebound velocity and you hit a bump with your rear wheel while being in the air, it could go from peak rebound velocity to 0 in an instant, to negative (compression in this case) and back to zero and positive velocity towards top out, all before landing the drop.
From a loyal customer.
At least that is how i am making sense of this in my mind.
With regards to setting HS damping to maximum before adjusting LS damping, I'd only recommend that specifically in rebound, though in a similar way I'd recommend setting HSC before LSC where possible. Check out our previous videos on low and high speed adjusters, they cover quite a lot of what we're discussing here.
Edit: seems that you edited your original post so this reply won't make sense in context!
I'd say at bottom out there's more force, so the shock tries to extend faster so ending rebound=HSR...
It’s weird though since doing as you say (turning the HSR all the way in) would essentially just turn the rebound into a port orifice damper for rebound. Would it be more ideal to have the LSR slower for chassis stability and the HSR faster for return speed in chunk and resist packing? Otherwise why bother with the HSR adjuster on a 4 way and why bother with shims on a mono tube shock or even a fork for that matter?
There is a common misconception that LSR stabilises the chassis - in reality stability is more affected by the bigger motions where the HSR comes into play, though as mentioned, in this case the LSR and HSR adjusters have so much overlap that both external adjusters are actually affecting it. Does this have to be balanced against insufficient ability to track the ground? Absolutely - see last week's video.
I've been using the HSR to control rear wheel kick back from hard landings and g-outs and using the LSR to try to tune traction over small bumps. Based on your tuning philosophy, am I doing it all wrong??
My first take away from the video is that your method of tuning maximizes the linearity of the rebound dampening rather than making it more digressive. This leads to the question of what the advantages / disadantages of linear versus digressive rebound damping are and in which application each would work best. I believe linear would probably work best for my application while digressive would be more suited to coil shocks or air shocks with fewer volume spacers(?)
It seems to me that with your tuning method everyone would end up with either:
1) the HSR fully closed and LSR somewhere in the middle or closer to open OR
2) LSR fully open and HSR somewhere between fully closed and part way open.
Yet if you look at any bike or shock manufacturers' base or recommended tunes I don't think I've ever seen them recommending HSR fully closed or LSR fully open as a starting point. This again makes me wonder if there is an advantage to a somewhat digressive rebound setup for most applications.
What does this mean? It means that, counterintuitively, the rider can't move fast enough to absorb some stuff that is affected largely by LOW SPEED damping, while we can stabilise a certain amount of motion that is occurring even at velocities well into the "high speed" region, provided that its effective frequency (calculable using FFTs) is low enough and that the amplitude doesn't exceed the rider's free range of motion. That's why we invariably end up with rebound damping coefficients that are much lower than heavy vehicles with a larger rigid sprung mass. The proof? Set your Inline in the open mode, and ride over a short rough section of trail whilst seated (carefully!), which effectively connects your body much more rigidly to the frame, and see how long it takes before you're genuinely terrified of getting sent OTB or the rear wheel is bouncing way up in the air. Try it again with your climb switch closed (much more digressive damping curve, heavier damping overall in both directions) and you'll see how that benefits what is essentially a vehicle with a more rigid sprung mass.
My opinion on HSR and LSR adjustments in general is that given that every one of them currently on the market offers you some degree of digression in the damping curve no matter how you set it up (at most it'll be fairly close to linear as you noted), and that they have such enormous overlap, is that they're a marketing effort above all else. They don't make performance inherently superior (in fact I'd argue they do the opposite), they don't make setup simpler (they definitely do the opposite there), and they don't even necessarily give you a wider range of adjustment than could be achieved with a single adjuster (even if that were really desirable), especially if you're going to allow for different valving configurations.
1) Is it safe to say that most of these shocks offer a lot of available free bleed through the low speed rebound adjuster?
2) Similarly, is it safe to say the high speed rebound when not closed (preloaded) is lighter than what we would normally see in shocks with fixed high speed rebound?
3) In the case of the Vivid, won’t running the high speed rebound fully closed and opening more low speed rebound also decrease comression dampening, since oil flows both ways through the low speed needles?
Thank you again for the videos. They are really helpful, especially given the amount of incorrect information that makes its rounds.
haven't tried it but my gut feeling tells me this method of setup might be more tricky with fork set-up considering the lower force applied by rider's weight , can you comment on it ?
any tips on Marz 380 set up ? considering the 5.5 lb/in spring is a bit too soft even for my bulky 5'8 160 lb
The cane creek guide is good for cane creeks. Which involves starting with a roughly damped setting. Then adjusting the highbsoeed, getting it right then adjusting the low speed.
The reason this works in the real world on the trail is that the number of hits the rear wheel takes that require a fast recovery from a small deflection (roots and rocks) is far greater than the low speed, body movement and berms for example.
Suspension setup for each rider is also different depending on riding style and where they ride.
There isn't a holy grail if a tune and setup for a trail bike. Cane creek have done a good job with the climb switch which closes off high speed and leaves low speed. (Basically to my knowledge). I wouldn't try to race down a hill with the CS on... Gets very chattery and removes a lot if the good ride characteristics of my Mega.
@thuren for sure there needs to be a good range of rebound adjustment available, whether it is internally adjusted with the valving or externally with a dial. It does strike me as a bit odd that you're 200lbs and running a Lyrik wide open in rebound though... if the valving is stock (and knowing what you do, it probably isn't!) that is a very particular setup.
awesome videos - thanks. I'm running lighter damping oil in my Topaz (Redline 2.5). Does lighter oil affect LSR, HSR or both? How does it change the damping?
Thanks for the info - that's how the change feels on the bike. Good to know theory and practice are lining up
does it need to be run fast and jumped if I can feel the hsr difference?
If so, if I can adjust rebound properly with hsr closed, then it's enough and hsr doesn't affect jumps drops etc?
Thank you for video and reply.
With such a large range of user adjustment available and fixed piston valving, do you ever see lag issues, particularly at the extremes of adjustment?
love these Tuesday tune videos and my tractive tuned RockShox coil.