STAFF RIDES
Mike Kazimer's Scott Ransom
The new Scott Ransom was one of the standouts in the long-travel category during the
Pinkbike Field Test, but I felt like there were a few tweaks and modifications that could make even better, at least for me. The end result of my tinkering isn't quite as out-there as
Mike Levy's abomination, but it's also not quite as straightforward of a build as it might appear at first glance.
FrameIt was the overall chassis feel of the Ransom that persuaded me to spend more time on this carbon-framed big wheeler – it hits the sweet spot when it comes to balancing frame weight, stiffness, and the ability the smooth out unwanted trail chatter. I'd usually gravitate towards something with a little less travel to be my daily driver, but the Ransom carries that 170mm of travel very well. It's light and manageable enough that it's easy to justify taking it out for everything from long days with lots of pedaling to shuttle laps on DH trails.
Of course, with a pile of parts that needed to be tested, and a distaste for overly-crowded handlebars, it wasn't long before the Ransom began to morph from its stock configuration into something a little different.
DeconstructionThe first step was to de-clutter the Ransom's cockpit, but even before that, I swapped out the Hixon integrated bar / stem for a 780mm Race Face Next R handlebar and a 40mm stem. The
Hixon is a well executed, lightweight component, but the roll of the bars wasn't quite where I wanted it to be, and the one-piece design meant there was no way to adjust that position.
Next, I removed the TwinLoc remote entirely. I'm not opposed to the TwinLoc concept – it's a handlebar mounted lever that firms up the shock and fork to help the bike climb better, but I think there's a cleaner and simpler way to accomplish the same thing. A single button or lever that firms up just the rear suspension would be nice; there's really no need to involve the fork. Plus, the only Fox 36 that can be used with a remote has a FIT 4 damper, rather than the superior GRIP2 damper.
SuspensionI could have swapped out the 36's FIT4 damper for a GRIP 2 and called it good, but I decided to take a slightly more complicated route. After an extended late night workshop session, I ended up with a 170mm Foxzocchi. The uppers and the air spring are from a Marzocchi Z1, while the lowers and the GRIP2 damper came from a Fox 36. In theory, the fork should be a little stiffer thanks to the thicker stanchion tubes, although I can't say I noticed the difference. The colors do match the Ransom's frame nicely, though, and the ultra-adjustable GRIP2 damper is an upgrade over the stock fork.
I have the fork set up with two volume spacers, and 72 psi. The high-speed compression and low-speed compression are almost all the way open, although I'll add a few clicks of each on more hardpacked trails.
The tune on the Ransom's stock Fox Nude TR Evol shock is excellent, and the little lever that can be used to increase the amount of end-stroke ramp up is extra clever. However, once you take off the remote, the shock ends up in the fully open position with no easy way to adjust the amount of compression. The Ransom doesn't have a ton of anti-squat, which means it's fairly active in that setting.
I didn't mind it at all on more technical climbs, but I found myself wishing for a firmer platform on the long logging road grinds that are necessary to access some of my favorite trails. Yes, I know that was the whole point of the TwinLoc remote, but stick with me here...
I replaced the Fox shock with a RockShox Super Deluxe that has a two position lever – open and locked out. There was only one problem – because of the shock's upside-down orientation the lockout lever hit the frame. After a little quality time with the bench grinder, that problem was solved. I can't reach the lever on the fly, but it's only semi-inconvenient to get off and flip the lever to the fully locked position before heading up a mega-climb.
Tires / WheelsI've had mixed luck with carbon rims over the years, but I can also say the same thing about aluminum rims – some have been absolutely trouble free, while others have had very short lifespans. So far, the Roval Traverse carbon wheels fall into the former category. I
reviewed them earlier this year, and they're still rolling right along without any issues. The 30mm internal width works well with the 2.4 – 2.5” tires that I prefer, and the DT 350 hubs are relatively quiet and require minimal maintenance.
My favorite trails are steep and often slippery, which is why I prefer tires with plenty of tread and sticky rubber. At the moment, there's an unmarked EXO+ casing 2.5” Maxxis Assegai up front, inflated to 20 psi, and a 2.4” DHR II in the rear at 22 psi. I've also installed a Nukeproof ARD insert in that DHR II for a little extra tire and rim protection. The ARD strikes a nice middle ground between something like CushCore, which works well but can be a royal pain to install, and Huck Norris, which doesn't provide quite as much protection.
BrakesSRAM's Code RSC brakes have proved their worth over the last couple of years, and they've become my go-to option for a bike of this nature. I run metallic pads all year round – organic pads are borderline ineffective in wet conditions, and they're not nearly as resistant to fading during extended sections of braking.
DrivetrainI'd originally hoped to spend the winter testing Shimano's new XTR drivetrain, but production delays put a damper on that plan. That meant SRAM's X01 drivetrain remained in place, although I did spend time pedaling around on a set of carbon cranks from a different manufacturer that will be announced in the near future. Otherwise, there's not much to mention – the drivetrain has been completely trouble-free.
Contact PointsGrips, pedals, and saddles can make a big difference in how a bike feels, which is why I'm currently running some of my favorite products in those areas. DMR's Deathgrips are thin and comfortable, and the same can be said for the Prologo Dimension NDR saddle I'm running. There's one part of the saddle that could use some refinement, though; the hard plastic center portion at the back. If you're riding down something steep and stop suddenly there's a chance that part will contact your most sensitive bits. I don't typically wear a chamois either, which makes that situation even more painful. I've been risking it lately simply because of how comfortable the saddle is otherwise, but I might get creative with some mastic tape, or switch for a different saddle all together.
That saddle is mounted to a 170mm Bontrager Line Elite Pro dropper post. Might as well keep the 170mm theme going, right? I like the shape of the remote lever, although the post doesn't go up or down quite as easily as a Fox Transfer post.
I switch back and forth between flat and clipless pedals depending on my mood and what I have in for testing. I was wrapping up testing on the Anvl Tilt pedals when these photos were taken, and as you'll see in the video, I'm starting to put time in on the new Shimano XTR pedals.
How's It Ride?I'm not one to get too hung up on weight – you're not going to find me removing rotor bolts, or running silly slip-on grips to shed a few grams. All the same, if I had to choose between a 30-pound bike or a 33-pound bike, I'm going to pick the lighter one. That's part of the appeal of the Ransom – as it sits, it's only 30.2 pounds, which is extremely impressive considering that it has big wheels and 170mm of travel.
Even with all that travel it doesn't feel like a singleminded downhill smasher – its handling is zippy enough that it's still engaging to ride on trails that are less-than-vertical, and that lighter weight makes it easy to whip around and navigate through the tight stuff. The geometry is modern without getting too wild, and the fit of the size large is close to perfect for my 5'11” height.
As you'd expect, it's on the descents where the Ransom really shines. It has an uncanny ability to find traction in the nastiest, greasiest conditions, which is one of the reasons I've been spending so much time on it. The 64.5-degree head angle isn't DH-bike slack, but it also helps keep the front end from washing out on flatter turns, and I haven't encountered any situations out on the trail where I felt like something slacker would have made a drastic difference.
The upper shock bolt likes to loosen up every once in a while, and the orange paint seems to chip easier than I'd like, but those are the only two issue I've run into over the last few months of riding.
Overall, the Ransom is one very impressive ride, and while I'd love to see a TwinLoc-free, or maybe a TwinLoc light version hit the market, this modified trail monster will do the trick in the meantime.
It makes sense that the weights are stated "as sold". It does not make sense tho that bikes come without pedals. I mean come on, the argument "everyone likes different ones" counts to literally every component as well. Sure you got the difference between flats/clicks but that's something the manufacturers could easily count in on price and let the bike shop handle. No one would complain about some standard *insert any known good pedal model here* coming with their bikes.
I would actually be happy to have builds that are between a full bike and a frame only, Frame, shock, fork, wheels (without tryes), drive train groupset, dropper, bars and brakes then you add your choice of tyres, grips, seat and pedals, maybe even choose brakes too, that way you get a combination of full bike value and custom build personalisation.
I don't think anyone would complain with a CB Stamp or Deity Tmac spec on their bikes.
This is how shops get around such stupid legislation selling incomplete bikes to the public by omitting the pedals.
Maybe Motorcycle shops and manufacturers could take a leaf out of the cycle industry book and sell motorcycles without mufflers......
At least Suzuki now sells their top sports bikes with all the Euro crap in the can so for racing purposes all you need to do is pull the can and not the complete exhaust system and replace. The crap Lawyers, Politicians and Bureaucrats put us through.
Got a float x2 and a 36 grip 2 also to see how much better it can descends.
Might as well ask them why they made this bike future compatible with Fox Live Valve. It's because they're a really intelligent Swiss company.
Interested in your opinion of the bike magazine review of the Ransom which praises the climbing switch as one of the greatest features of the bike, instantly transforming it into a rigid bike or a 140mm trail bike to suit terrain. The bike magazine review is consonant with all the other public reviews of the bike. Yet here on pinkbike, the climbing switch is seen pretty universally as a disease that needs to be cleansed.
What do you think accounts for the difference? Terrain, riding style, culture or preference?
Thanks for any thoughts on this.
i find that seated the bike doesn't bob that much witch is the way you climb most of the time and if um pedal out of the saddle you also can do it in a way that doesn't bob that much .
a ransom like that with the grip 2 and a dhx2 air (or a ext storia) would be the dream
Would people not be better choosing a bike with similar Geo & sizing from another manufacturer if they don't want the Twinloc? Just reach down and flick the climb switch on a Firebird 29 for example?
That said, I still don't understand why and how @mikekazimer managed to mix Marzocchi and Fox forks. If Marzocchi uses thicker walled stanchions than Fox, how did he manage to fit the Fox grip2 damper inside Marzocchi stanchions? Or is it a completely contained damper cartridge that, despite the different stanchions, still uses the same thread? And if so, wouldn't it be so much easier then to just get a complete Marzocchi fork and only get a different damper cartridge, so why swap the lowers too? Finally, would the grip2 damper be the damper cartridge of choice for this fork or would Marzocchi owners be even better off with a damper from Push, Vorsprung or another aftermarket/tuning company?
No criticism, just curious .
When I read you don't typically wear a chamois I couldn't help but cringe - every time I've gone for an impromptu ride sans-chamois I've had several very close calls with the ol' frank and beans and some part of my saddle or rear tire, and I have a couple bad memories of pretty heinous "pinches".
All that said, not sure if the padding in my chamois really helps me or not. So interested to hear your preferences / reasoning.
I wear Saxx Kinetic boxer briefs underneath my baggy riding shorts. They have a semi-compression fit, which helps keep everything in place. The key to going sans-chamois is having a good saddle - it can take a little experimentation to find what works best for you.
www.saxxunderwear.com/products/sxbb27_bel
BTW, you can run a lever with a Grip damper just not a Grip 2. I’d take the original grip over a fit4 any day. I have to admit, I like the idea of stiffening the front for climbs. I spent enough time with a Scalpel with a front only lockout and that just makes sense after using it for some time. When you stand, you put the weight over the front of the bike and it’s the fork that bobs more than the rear. You may not have the rolling climbs we have in CO, but in those stand to sprint over a steep crest moments, that support on a 170 travel fork could be particularly handy.
However in locations like mine where the trail constantly switches from climbing to descending every 25' you need a bike that gives up some plushness and instead has lots of AS without the need to be throwing a switch 350x/ ride.
This is really something to consider when shopping for a bike, how the suspension will operate on your main trails, and it's a point missed by most bike reviews.
Nude fox increases the air pressure and actually reduces sag.
Which is preferred. Not to mention the awesome Ramp switch!!!!
Beautiful bike there. Seems like everyone loves that thing. Fwiw those Codes are awesome aren't they? What sized rotors? I run that same Cockpit too, it certainly looks cool!
I like the EDC solution, but I usually have a phone with me, and I don't like carrying it in my pocket.
UM.....????
Have a look at my funds draining machine...
www.pinkbike.com/photo/17049558
Do you know anything about that?
www.amesweb.info/Materials/Youngs-Modulus-of-Aluminum.aspx
With that said, if you'd want to design the Z1 stanchions to have the same safety factor (in bending stress) has the 36 Elite's, you'd have to satisfy the equation 1.90*(36^4 - R1^4) = 36^4 - R2^4; where R1 is the internal radius of the 36 and R2 of the Z1. If we assume the wall thickness of the 36 stanchions is 1mm, then the Z1 stanchions walls would have to be 2.1mm. But then the Z1 stanchions would also be 82% stiffer despite the material (and 110% heavier). Thus, the slight difference in Young's Modulus is irrelevant.
Next time you fly, notice the flex of the wings and be glad it's not 6000 series aluminum...
1) No Marzocchi fork comes with a Grip 2 damper, so your point about swapping the uppers because of G2 makes no sense. Could've just dropped a G2 damper in your kashima crown and called it day. I'm guessing your really just wanted the black stanchions, like all the cool kids.
2) You mentioned in your write-up that in the video we'd see your testing out the new XTR pedals, UM pretty sure those are Saints, you even referenced them as Saints so yeah.
Details people. If your going to make up stories (fork) at least get the details correct, especially if there is video/visual evidence. Either way all that BS aside, sweet build.