Until you get to 140 millimeters of wheel travel, setting up your shock and fork is one dimensional - it's either firm with little bottoming, or smooth with acceptable bottoming. Any action you take on one extreme negates most benefits of the other. At and above 140, however, you can work the suspension's mid-stroke with some degree of success. Get the mid-stroke right and the bike sets into the turns evenly and keeps the suspension at the correct ride height to maximize its useful travel. That miracle, however usually involves shuffling air-volume spacers - or high-speed damping adjustments that the Deluxe RT shock lacks
I say this because the Vitus, by design or otherwise, naturally remains stable in the sweet spot of its suspension travel. Initially, with the shock sag point at 30 percent the Vitus felt like it was asleep at the wheel. A little more pressure in the shock, though, and the bike woke right up. With the shock sagged at 25-percent (maybe a smidgen less) and the fork at 20 percent, with one click in on its compression dial, the Escarpe melted into the landscape. It was so easy to ride that it became my go-to bike for the second half of the summer season.
Climbing and acceleration: Starting with its weight: 32 pounds is not shameful, but the Escarpe is a heavy trail bike. That said, the feel at the pedals is as efficient as 32-pound bikes get - to the extent that long climbs were much better than survivable. It gets out of corners pretty quickly too. With anti-squat numbers near 135 percent, I'd say it has enough of the good stuff built into the kinematics to keep most riders eager when the time comes to turn on the hurt. Will you need the shock's climb switch? I doubt it. The upright position is so close to lockout that it's only useful on smooth surfaces and the Escarpe pedals well enough wide open that I was inclined to leave it there full time.
What it does best: Hop aboard this bike and you're going to be searching for the perfect corner. That ride-height stability keeps its chassis composed, so I could brake late and tuck into surprise turns. That stability, along with the combination of wide Maxxis tires and 29-inch wheels, help maintain grip and composure over all kinds of terrain. I anticipated that some of the Escarpe's turning magic came from a short-offset fork, but the lowers were marked 51mm - standard 29er fare. No matter, the steering feels balanced and light, and the chassis seems like it sets up for the corners on its own. Push it too hard and the tail end drifts until your speed comes back in check. Quite fun.
| ...The steering feels balanced and light, and the chassis seems like it sets up for the corners on its own. |
Technical riding: My Escarpe 29 felt invincible at trail speeds, and I learned to trust it and drop down mystery lines that defied its not-so-slack head tube angle. But, the superman effect faded as speeds and features reach a defined magnitude. Landing to flat will exhaust the rear suspension travel in a hurry and, as burly as the rear suspension seems to the eye, I could sense it flexing while I caromed through rocks and root balls. Negatives? To some riders, yes, but the chassis still feels trustworthy when push comes to shove, so I treated those moments as yellow lights - reminders that my speedster trail bike (or its pilot) had reached the redline.
Suspension action: Some of the composed feel of this bike at speed could be attributed to its axle path. Technical climbing also seemed to be easier with the Vitus's rear suspension. Back to back rides proved that the rear wheel of the Escarpe got up and over janky rocks and roots better than most bikes. The Vitus carried more momentum when pedaling through chop or picking my way through rock gardens with no defined lines. I would have insisted that chain growth - the negative aspect of its the rearward axle path - would have erased the improved roll-over of the suspension kinematics, but that did not seem to be the case. I would speculate that the resistance at the pedals that chain growth creates develops more smoothly with this suspension and thus is less apparent under power.
If you're just running shuttles, or in fact just a normal guy riding trail or enduro with a focus on the downs, reliability is everything. Personally I don't ride a lot of rocks so I find the EXO casing tyres are fine for me in that sense. If I was fltting a lot I would go up a casing or two for sure. If you're not against the clock, who cares about the pace - especially on the way up? No me.
Vitus = 32 lbs
Vitus is heavy? Wot?
But spend that extra money on a frame with better kinematics and geometry and your ride experience will be radically improved. It's just a shame those things haven't trickled down to this price point yet...
If it amazes you what anyone would want a better bike you are asking youself the wrong questions.
Kinematics is a big topic, but there are genuine differences between expensive DW-link/Switch-Infinity/VPP bikes which make them pedal better than cheaper, non-patented suspension designs (things like non-linear anti-squat curves, etc.).
The DW link is also worth at least a few hundred, in my opinion.
I also think there are also those that will be willing to spend the extra for dependability as well as the prestige. They have a bike that whilst potentially being beyond their capabilities, will serve them well as they progress and get coaching and develop their riding.
That being said...rims, I can take out a rear rim in a race weekend without trying too hard.
Lighter components, you could just go on a diet or take a good poo.
Remember when bikes were 50+lb, we are not in that realm are we!!!
Better shifting, just learn to change smoothly.
I remember riding my old Nomad with old kit on it in Santacruz, all the bling bikes on the hill, Enve wheels were pretty much the standard.
Those wheel meant nothing once the trail pointed down the hill, they wouldnt even ride the gnarly trail, which was just a nice flow trails with a couple of rocks and a jump on it.
Hubs with faster engagement... lol, having Hadley and Kings, other 150 point hubs too when I thought it mattered, my DT240 wipes the floor with them, it just works and keeps working. Sometimes less is more
If you wanted good geo and decent components, you had to spend a lot of money.
I'm glad the 'dentists' as so many like to say, spent money on better bikes so that trickle down could work for the general population and everyone could end up with better bikes.
Bikes are like cars, some people spend 3x as much just because it's not a financial strain and it gives them joy and they get to have something special. Most understand that the functional differences are pretty minimal.
Any person with more than 2 seasons riding could easily tell the difference. The 7 was $2300 new. Very different feel, but especially the suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, and drivetrain. Night and day difference. So, a $4000 bike is way better than a $2300 bike.
And only elites will get a difference out of a more expensive bike then this one?
Lol.
Ya right. Some people like to go fast not only on downs. This whole nonsense that as long as it goes down fine then that's all that matters is bullshit.
To say that a bike that is heavy is more planted can be true.
But you don't want a bike that is planted all the time. Let your suspension and skills keep it planted.
Because you still have to get the bike up. Still have to lift the front still have to lift the back. Still will need to switch lines from time to time.
All of which is harder on a heavier bike end of story.
If you aren't into going fast all the time and don't race or challenge yourself then yes these 30+lb bikes are fine.
This rental bike was also in pretty much new condition. Who knows if after a season of riding how many bleeds the shimano deore brakes would need, how crisp the NX/GX combo would shift, and how true the budget rims would be. I agree, at some point the marginal gains are too small to justify the expense, but that point isn't in the low $2000 price range.
Are you a pro (or actual like Cat2 or Cat 1 almost/semi-pro) racer where all-out-speed trumps fun and potentially means a bigger paycheck?
Yes? Ok, 29er for you, sure.
No? Then get a 27er, all the reviews say they're funner!
The shop I recently got my new Stumpy 27.5 from literally only stocks 29ers (except for a few models' size S and XS that only come in 27, as they should) (and only in silver or black, but that's another story). Luckily I knew what I wanted so I could just go in and order it, but anyone else visiting that store is going to end up with a 29er. I asked why they were all 29ers, and must have said something about "the industry push towards big wheels" and the shop owner said "bullshit, there's no push, 29ers are what people want", to which I replied "and how can your customers compare, since there are _zero_ 27.5 bikes in anything above size Med?", which got no answer. But I know the answer: they test ride a 29er, ask what the difference is, get told the pros of "big wheels more easily roll over bumps and rocks and carry momentum to save you energy", and nothing about the cons of "heavier wheels take more energy to accelerate and longer wheelbases take more energy to snake around the tight corners we have here in New England".
(also obvi that very tall/large riders will be able to move around large wheels and have more room for good geo even with big wheels. but for average size males, and especially average size woman, 29ers come with too many maneuverability compromises in the name of raw speed.
@just6979: Believe me, I'm not a racer, and I'm not worried about going maximum speeds -- I think I came in faster the year before on a 26. So it's not a matter of it being fast. It was just a lot more fun. Felt like I was just gliding.
Just a question for you guys -- and I'm not asking to be a wiseguy, so don't take it that way. Just an honest question -- have you ever tried a 29er? Something made in the last year or two? If you haven't, you should give it a try. I think you'll like it a lot more than you think.
Not really. For me the bike wasn't stable enough to trust it. I was scared of drops I was doing on my old 100mm travel xc bike. So sold it.
Enter my new build a Lightcarbon 958. 29er 470 reach low bb 444m chainstays. I had to ride it 27.5 for a month waiting on cash to build 9er wheels.
Was alot of fun was afraid the bigger wheels would take some of that away. I was wrong.
Put the 29er wheels on it and it came to life. Pops plays. Balls swelled quick confidence came on the first day. Doing drops I was scared of on my recluse for 2 years. Jumping and taking risks is alot more fun because I know the bike isn't going to get squirrelly on me if I make a small mistake.
On my trails which are natural it carries speed which is fun because that means less pedaling. 27.5 isn't as much fun when there are roots and rocks everywhere.
"longer wheelbases take more energy to snake around the tight corners we have here in New England"
Stumpjumper 29 (L) - wheelbase 1201
Stumpjumper 27.5 (L) - wheelbase 1212
man, plz try good 29er
Yes there are 9ers with geo comparable to Stumpy 27 (reach, front-center, trail), and they'll all have longer wheelbases. Not to mention the longer overall length because even with the same wheelbase, the big wheels stick out further.
Besdies, I wasn't comparing Stumpy 27 to Stumpy 29 in particular, I was generally comparing the sizes. It's just physics that a larger rotating mass, whether that's more mass at the same radius (trail tires to DH tires on a 27) or same mass on a larger radius (trail tires on a 27 to same tires on a 29), takes more energy to change direction. Yes they roll over shit more smoothly, so they need less energy input to keep going forward, but the trade-off is needing more energy to make direction changes.
And direction changes are what I, and I think most, riders truly find the most fun. Yes, screaming along a downhill trail at Mach Stupid is amazing, but what real gets the hootin' and hollerin' going is jumps and berms and all the other various direction changing features.
Not to mention that I can already go more than fast enough in a straight line to get seriously messed up if shit were to go south. I'd rather have the bike that's easier to toss into all corners at a medium speed and a still wring out all the funs, instead of just gliding over everything ever faster. Death-gripping (5 fingers on the bar, don't even touch the brakes) at 12 mph and 2 wheel drifting through pine needles over hero dirt on a tightening radius corner and the motoing out is the best thing ever! Much preferred to straight-lining at 30 mph, especially since there are much fewer locations where that 30 can even be hit.
The cost savings are made not in components choice but in details - the downtube routing is a bit cheaply done, dropper routing is a PITA to set up, some of the finish is less than perfect, the bearings aren't brilliantly sealed away, but these are all minor points. They don't affect the ride at all, just the cost at which Vitus can offer it.
My gut says 130mm is about right. Or should I go with the On-One Tik Tik hardtail with 160mm fork. Or that new titanium Titus Zestar. Or the budget friendly On-One Scandal with the same geometry.
I have 2 tokens in my 160mm fork and 2 reducers in the shock most of the time when I'm at home, so I woulg guess it actually rides more like a 140-150 travel bike. I would guess with the right forks, you could support the midstroke and make the Escarpe run like a shorter-travel bike when you wanted. Even with my shock in the full-open position, it pedals and picks up speed like an all-day trail bike.
I have taken it to the French Alps and to a few UK DH centres too. It's obviously not a DH bike, but it keeps its momentum up brilliantly. It might just be my technique, but on jumps it seems to really soak up the takeoffs and suck itself back onto the trail.
When are you guys going to stop parroting this marketing wank from the brands? The only reason for a moving pivot is to manipulate the leverage curve.
All the forces still need to go into the "chassis", and in this case more of the force is going through the main pivot bearing into the frame, and pretty close to where a shock mount would be anyway. Wouldn't it be better to have a big chunk of solid material doing that work instead of a precision moving part like a bearing?
I would be happy with the base model Mythique and upgrade some of the components to my preferences. Personally I would prefer the cheap shimano 10 speed.
My my worry is the Mythique frame looks flexible with its thin linkages. One good thing is chain reaction has all the parts for Vitus bikes for cheap. New bearings, hangers, bolts and such are cheap to replace.
A Vitus bike be my next purchase. I’m a mountain biker with a Walmart budget.
For the weight conscious I also dumped 600g by making it tubeless!
It was insanely cheap! Currently £2499 on CRC
Most importantly, the ride is superb! It had something to live up too! It replaced my Transition Patrol!
So a normal-offset fork can create a ride just like a short-offset fork? At least enough you can't tell the difference if you don't know what offset is?
So short-offset is pointless?
I was having some issues with rear shock in winter session so I fix it with making my custom shock fender. I use e mount front derailleur's mounts and now its free from dirt... the other weird thing about bike is the way they route internal dropper cable.. I simply change it and mount it to chain guide screw hole which is located near bt the bb..this way it works better than before.. and its so hard to find suitable rear fender.. so I did it myself..
Rear triangle and floating brake system works pretty good with the bike but wish it was more stiffer and that small triangle alu piece which they welded on seat tube for bigger frame sizes looks horrible on XL frame..
Cons: terrible internal dropper routing; I would recommend using either a internally routed reverb or externally routed cable actuated post
Really low BB height; the escarpe sits pretty well into d.s. bike bb heights so expect a few few pedal strikes
Interrupted seat tube: finding a dropper that works with the routing and short seat tube may be challenging
Tariffs; make the price a bit higher but CRC frequently does duty paid sales
Having had an Escarpe as my first proper rig I would certainly recommend it
Of course, this bike can't be compared to let's say Hightower, but it also shouldn't be compared to the bikes like that. You can get it cheap over Crc (nobody ever pay full price) and it just works. Hightower is better bike in every aspect, no doubt about it, but not at least 3 times better.
Measured at what point on the top tube? Because no human is going to be contacting the top tube at the low, flat portion, they're going to be hitting somewhere along the upward rising portion, especially with the dropper down. The dip needs to start much further forward to have a real effect on stand-over at usable places.
What is the max insertion? I figured the silly tunnel would be the limiting factor, making it look pretty good on depth, but the pivot welds are blocking it, that that's a pretty shitty depth, like at 5'10" i'd be looking at 125mm drop max, which would kinda suck since when I did need to get way back, I'd have to get behind the seat and right in the way of that huge wheel waiting to buzz my ass. Not good.
www.gravis-cycles.com/rodeo-4-al
khsbicycles.com/bikes/2019-khs-models/sixfifty-7500-19
It's called a McLeod.
Good review ????????