HXR Components are a French company, from the Rhone Alpes region (that contains many of the best lift-accessed spots in Europe) and have created Easy Shift in order to allow shifting when not pedaling. This means that you can shift into the right gear ready to sprint out of a corner, or when pedal strikes are a concern in a narrow, rocky trail. This is achieved by adding a freewheel to the crankset and using a fixed gear hub so that the chain is turning at all times, whether pedaling or coasting
If you are running a DT-Swiss star ratchet hub, such as the 350 or 240, turning it into a fixed gear can easily be done using HXR's special kit. There are also replacement pawls that create a fixed freehub body for a range of hubs including Mavic. (€18 or €12 respectively), or you can buy HXR's own hub for €269. Other requirements to use the crankset as it's intended are a narrow wide chainring, which most riders will have already, and chain guide.
HXR Easy Shift DetailsIntended use: Shifting without pedaling
Material: Aluminum
Compatibility: Fits all BB shells and Boost and non-Boost spacing
Requirements: freewheel blocking pawls/fixed gear hub, narrow wide chainring and chain guide
Crank lengths: 165 and 170mm (DH), 170 and 175mm (enduro)
Weight: 942 g (arms, axle, chainring, BB,
actual)
MSRP: €449 EUR
hxr-components.com In Europe, the crankset is available for €449, with the Enduro model for 73mm wide bottom brackets being offered in 170mm or 175mm crank lengths and the DH model for 83mm wide B.B. in a 165mm length.
Installation Fitting the HXR kit was similar to any other crank. I used a threaded BSA 73mm bottom bracket and it came with a tool and a bunch of thin plastic washers to fine tune things. Once the BB was in, place the chainring and 'freewheel' on to the driveside splines and install this side of the crank. Finally, add the non-driveside arm and torque it up.
Performance and ThoughtsDoes the system work? That's obviously the first question and yes, it does. I could change gears at any time the rear wheel was turning, but it took a few rides for me to relearn when to shift so that I could benefit from being in the correct gear. I soon started to shift going into corners and even in them so that I could pedal out on exit, preventing those useless pedal strokes when you're in too low a gear to add any meaningful speed. It was also useful for shifting in preparation for a sudden climb following a rough descent or vice-versa.
I did wonder, with the chain constantly moving, does the drivetrain wear faster? I reached out to Romain, who owns HXR, who said that because there is no tension on the chain it won't wear too much. However, as I see it, this extra movement must increase wear to some extent, but not as much as from pedaling. Related to the additional wear is the increased friction from the drivetrain when coasting. I don't know if this makes a significant difference in the real world, but there will always be more drag from the system than a traditional setup.
The overlying fear of mine with the system is what would happen if a stick were to get caught in the wheel? At high-speed, I don't know if I could stop quickly enough to prevent the chain and derailleur from getting ripped off. Also, what would happen if the chain were to jam when riding something technical? The rear wheel would stop turning and could even cause a crash. Even if the narrow wide chainring and chain guide do their job's perfectly, something as simple as tagging the rear mech on a rock and bending the mech hanger could cause a crash. Luckily, none of the above happened, but they were on my mind.
I'm not really concerned about the additional weight of the extra freewheel system, although that's certainly going to be a dealbreaker for some riders, but carrying a second freewheel mechanism which is blocked seems to be waste to me. This would happen even if you spent the money on HXR's fixed gear hub, as it is convertible between a fixed gear hub or normal freehub. I would be interested to try the blocking pawls on an eMTB hub, which might be useful for technical hill climbs as you could change gear in time with pedal pauses around or on to obstacles.
Pinkbike's Take | The HXR Easy Shift system is interesting, but its performance isn't groundbreaking enough to prompt me to rush out and put one on every bike I ride.— Paul Aston |
Just my
1) If the rear wheel stops turning (lock up, big dirty skids, etc) the chain stops moving. But then when the wheel starts to rotate again the chain starts going?
So in steep technical terrain where the wheel might go 'stopped to moving to stopped to moving' several times in a few seconds, the chain is getting pushed and pulled all over the place.
2) And surely a conventional drivetrain is designed around the chain being taut on the top length and 'pulled' round. It seems like when freewheeling this would be taut on the bottom half (through the derailleur) and the chain is 'pushed' on the top length. With the 12 speed cassette and the chain line issues already in place, that sounds like a recipe for disaster.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Front_freewheel
Additional useful information: The spider uses a 94mm bcd and it's a 30mm spindle.
On the crankset I had the tolerances seemed to have been off. When I wanted to take the crank off the bike, I had to hammer it out over the whole length of the spindle and harder than I was comfortable with.
Other than that it worked as intended and shifting while coasting was nice.
HxR did do locking pawls for DT, Mavic and Aivee. Their own locking pawls are -unofficially- compatible with Spank hubs. The bike I bought came with a locked Spank hub.
There is a narrative that the constantly moving chain and cassette tilt the bike forward while jumping and that this would be quite dangerous.
I didn't do jumps big enough to notice such an effect, though.
Seems to me it would, if anything, raise the front wheel.
When jumping an MX bike, if you want the nose up you give it throttle, ie spin the rear wheel and sprockets faster. To bring the nose down, you tap the rear brake
If it's silghtly lower ie like on a good take of but you loose the front end going down a slight hit on the throttle will help things.
In more sciency terms, it works like a reaction wheel.
www.instagram.com/p/BsuD5yhh4cv/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
In this case, I guess the extra drag from the drivetrain might make the nose of the bike dip a little quicker than usual.
I’d expected to hear it actually held momentum because of the inertia of the moving cassette/chain/chainring resulting in a slight push.
Love the idea of changing gears coasting. For racing it just makes sense to me.
They are what gearbox bikes need.
I'm running front and rear freewheels currently for future emotor setup.
When the suspension compresses, the chain is stretched. If the chain is spinning during the compresion, does it change anything? (think like when the chain is "starched", the cassettes "adds" links instead of pulling the chain) Is there a change in pedal kickback?
And when the chain is pulled, it rotates the crank and it is what creates the kcikback. so no effect on kickback.
I heard this question a few times and the answer is definitively that you can't get rid of kickback this way.
The only way is to disangage the freewheel (in the hub or the crank, as you prefer) so the chain is disconnected.
this is the DT swiss concept from some years ago: www.pinkbike.com/news/canyon-project-disconnect-eurobike-2016.html
About the HxR - it might work when the wheel is spinning (and fast) the Chain is pulled from the rear axle, therefore the distance between the upper part of the chainring and the place the chain "leaves" the cassette grows. Bucause the cassette is spinning, the upper part of the chain will get longer (added links) and it might can help with pedal kickback.
Just ask pinkbike to check it on a bike with high pivot and without the idler pulley.
Still, I was wondering, nothing more
”The overlying fear of mine with the system is what would happen if a stick were to get caught in the wheel? At high-speed, I don't know if I could stop quickly enough to prevent the chain and derailleur from getting ripped off."
Internal shift systems all shift without pedaling, they can move the weight to the centre of the bike, use a lighter, quieter longer lasting, maintenance free belt, be neglected and work reliably for decades.
The only reason we dont have light weight high performance IS sjifting is because it wont wear out every 4 months. It is stupid people believe we cant have that.
Did I miss where they mention the details regarding points of engagement?
On what bike they fit that thing on? The one with the concentric lower pivot I mean
What is the different ??
www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBT6Y_9Wdo0