Reserve's New Fillmore Valve Aims to Make Tubeless Easier

 I see what you did there. Nicely played.

 This comment gets a seal of approval.

 good to see these things evalve

 @bhowl: you had a chance, but you blew it!

 I'm surprised this product info didn't leak early.

 Something about it just sits nicely.

 @chamberlink: I guess I'm not a real pinker.

 Upvotes all 'round!

 I better not push my luck...lest I blow a cap...

 @CSharp: A for effort but I'll be honest, C- for execution

 Looking at my current valves, I suddenly feel deflated

 I'm all clogged up, and have nothing to spray!

 @H2o1199: EValve will be the e-bike specific version

 I’m also very imprestad

 M0ar like $55 next month with this inflation

 I just want to leave this here:
76projects.com/products/hi-flow-no-clog-tubeless-valves?variant=40862712463547

if you want the same thing for half price!

 @nickfranko: I am worried about keeping that little cap on there, otherwise I think the design is good. As with everything, it will still be a wear item, so I am curious how long that O-ring lasts. The whole system should last years and years if it's worth the asking price.

 @nickfranko: We actually reduced the complications with fewer parts than current presta valves.

 Fillmore valves use a combination of 7000 series aluminum combined with a stainless steel internal rod, making the patented valves nearly three times the cost of a standard Presta. But, as a result of the no clog design, we expect Fillmore Valves to last as long as you own your bike.

 Eh, I think the last normal valve stems I bought were about $15, and if you want to add a microscopic fancy brand logo, that'll be $30. If these deliver the promised functionality, I don't think the price is out of line.

 @nickfranko - Dude, look at the picture, they removed the valve core

 @nickfranko: how do you still ride if you invented presta valves in the 1880s?

 @ReserveWheels: it’s a neat solution. given the cost, have you designed these to be maintainable? Can the popper be disassembled so that, in the inevitable situation that you do get sealant in there over time, or any other crud, you can take the rod out and get a pipe cleaner in?

 You know every bling bike out there will have these

 Just bought a pack of 20 presta valve cores for $10. Not that I need to replace them frequently, because I take the cores out when seating a tubeless tire. And without the core in, airflow is presumably the same as with Fillmores?

 @dominic54: Fillmore valves are not rebuildable and we don't recommend disassembly. But, we have a lifetime warranty for the original owner. So, if you're having a problem, I'd recommend contacting out Rider Support Team to get squared away.

 $50. Ugh this sport is starting to feel like it's for the upper class. I'll have to stick with my public school district salary presta valves for now.

 @gtill9000: bikepacking.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Reserve-Fillmore-Tubeless-Valves-Review_3.jpg

There's the breakdown of the parts of this device. As you can see, there are quite a few parts and they're quite fiddly.

I have decades of experience of working on cars, motorcycles, and bicycles. I have had to deal with the brilliant engineering ideas of all different brands, which when they were new was great but after a couple years of use suddenly become the most unbearable wrenching experiences you've ever had to deal with. Like when Mercedes made an oxygen sensor heater system containing an ultra-expensive pump, multiple failure points, and extremely complicated to work on. Or when companies don't think of the material compatibility and now you have spark plugs that are fused inside of their respective holes (*cough* F150 triton).

Noticing the small seals and that threaded end, unless you routinely open up and service that, you're going to find it fused shut at some point that's going to end up breaking out vice grips. I also worry about the cost of parts. I can buy a valve core for less than a dollar, whether schrader or presta, yet how much is the rebuild kit going to be for this? How much is a new rod if you strip out that allen hole? What about the o-rings or that metal cap?
I applaud them for coming up with a new design to help move us away from age-old presta valve, but I would love to see a less complicated system and I would REALLY love if they got rid of that end cap for a different design.

 @dominic54: I have a set of them. Easy to take apart with a 2.5mm allen and an adjustable wrench.

 @nickfranko: They need to make them lifetime warranty... Oh wait.... That sealed the deal

 @rickybobby18: just disassemble your valve and clear the sealant out. It’s a two min job.

 Wait 3 months for the Ali express "reswerve" version for $5

 @thenotoriousmic: how? My sealent is somehow inside the valve core

 @thenotoriousmic: Tires wear out. These are lifetime. Have fun with your scissors mate

 @Jonnysnow: take the valve core out, remove the screwy bit on the top, will be a bit stiff first time you do this, disassemble, clean and reassemble. Takes no more than two mins.

 Surely they would sell at least 10x as many if they were priced competitively with other tubeless valves?

 :..(

 @rossluzz: As a public school district employee this hit home.

 @thenotoriousmic: Hey may not know that there is a little tool called a valve core remover. easier than needle nose pliers. Buy a few and keep them in your pack, one in the tool box, etc.

 @StinkyTO: I run peatys valves has one on on the valve cap and a spoke key on the other. Saved a tacod wheel with it a couple of months ago by the side of a jump. Highly recommend.

 Can't see much reason for them to be $50 in the long run. Once they have volume and can forge the pin and stem, it should be much less than that. Might need to tweak the design a little to eliminate the need for the cross pin to retain it, I imagine that's where a lot of the cost is.

More excited about the bit that they didn't mention though. Looks like they incorporated a special groove a little way down the stem which I am guessing is for a quick release air chuck. Now THAT is what we really need.

Slightly worried about stainless and 7075 together in a wet environment though, that's a pretty big electro-galvanic potential so I can imagine a few wet-climate owners (certainly wet-salty-climate owners) finding they can't get the valve cap off one day to the point of breaking the needle.

 @ReserveWheels: why is your warranty exclusive to the original owner?

 @thenotoriousmic: I’m a little mystified that $35 for Peaty’s is cool by you, but you seem really angry about $50 for these. Where in that $15 delta is the tripwire?

I’m not dissing the Peaty’s. I’ve got a set on a bike. They’re fine. The caps are gimmicky, and they clog, but I think they work better with Cushcore than the Cushcore valves. I’d rather have paid less for them.

I’ll also cop to owning a $50 pair of valves. They’re made of titanium which allows them to have a thinner wall than aluminum valve stems, meaning the inner bore is just an RCH wider than an alloy stem. On one hand, they’re total dentist bullshit. On the other hand, they’re brilliant. That wider bore makes them much less prone to clogging, and improves airflow. Unfortunately, they aren’t Cushcore compatible.

Theoretically, by those metrics, I should be psyched on the Reserves, but meh, we’ll see. I’m clearly willing to spend 50 bucks on dentist bullshit high flow low clog insert-compatible stems. Maybe next time I need new valve stems I’ll keep these in mind.

 @StinkyTO: He’s not talking about removing the valve core. He’s talking about disassembling the valve core to clean out sealant. Nobody seems to do it very much, but it’s really easy and effective. Plus, it’s less wasteful than just throwing it away.

 Some name brand presta valves are already that expensive. Doesn't make sense to me as they all use the same valve core (probably manufactured at the same facility). I'd pay $50 if it means I won't have to deal with sticking/clogged/seized valve cores

 @skywalker268: thanks, that’s helpful. Quite different to the manufacturer’s reply!

 @Ehlingerj: besides a car, what is something that the warranty transfers to the next owners? Basically nothing

 @nickfranko: Did this guy even look at the designs and compare them before writing up a critique?

 @brandonschuh: I worked I warranty and repair at Cascade Designs (thermarest, msr, platypus, etc) and we applied warranty to the item, not the owner. Perhaps it’s changed since I left but I don’t think so.

 @BrambleLee: Product reputation. I’ve always had a good experience with peatys stuff so I’m happy to pay a little bit extra but reserve are a parasitic trash company that have spent the last three years trying to sell cheap plastic rims that crack if you look at them wrong for astronomical prices so when they pull a stunt like this I just see it as another scam.

 My approach is pretty similar, except I use a charger can. And I get the valve core ready and waiting, closed, in one hand while I pop the pump head off with the other and try to get the core in before the tyre goes flat again. If I've gone to 50psi to seat tube bead, the tyres normally about the right pressure after this. Inevitable drop the core on the floor half the time, normally when I'm tired from getting a stubborn tyre fitted...

 Yeah totally. Remove the core, use the air gun to inflate and seat the tire, cover the hole, replace the core. You just saved $30.

 That's exactly what I do, though I still have issues with clogged valves over time...

 I just buy 25mm rims and not "wide trails", I put my sealant in my tyre and then the tyre on the rim and I pump, and then it is done...

 @mountainsofsussex: this! And even though I'm quite cheap i got myself the Park Tool VC-1 which makes removing the valve core a super easy. Nothing to worry about.

 I would like to hear from Reserve wheels on this point as this is how I also set my tires. If I cannot use my air compressor gun, then these will never be an option for me.

 @mountainsofsussex: that sounds complicated. How much pressure do your compressor building up? Sounds weak.
I never have had a problems with 8 bar pressures. Just stick it on the valves and bam , everything is sitting and got enough pressure.

 @Serpentras: I don't have a compressor - Giant control tank and track pump does the job, and gets me an upper body workout at the same time!

 @kingpine: I have had maybe two clogged valves in 6 years. If they clog, I replace the core. The valve stem has never clogged on me. :shrug:

My approach to setting tubeless is similar to others. I don’t pour the tubeless directly into the tire. I do a dry bead set first—using my compressor to set the bead. Then I take the valve core out, use Orange Seal’s squeeze bottle and straw to get the sealant in, make sure the stem is clean on the inside, put the code back in, and fill it up. So much less mess.

 The can’t patent Schrader and charge $60 for them.

 Schrade is so much better in almost all ways other than having a bigger diameter. I have never seen a bend schrader valve. But if one looks for a short time, one will see bend presta valves all around.

I have screw-on schrader valves for presta bodys. I´m joyfull everytime I get to pump my tires, because I know I don´t have to unsrew my valves and I´m not at risk of break them.

 @CustardCountry:
Can’t just say stuff, needs to make sense

 yep, I'm running Joe's Schrader valves.. so easy to inflate

 Yup, loving Schrader too. Only issue I see is that no one seems to make them compatible with inserts at this point. I cut out a big cross at the bottom of a Joe's Schrader valve and it does work somewhat (with ProCore) but flow still isn't quite there. Which is a bummer as the solution they use for Presta valves would work equally well with Schrader, but it is hard to make it like that yourself.

 I think you'd be surprised by the increased airflow. Makes seating super easy.

 @ReserveWheels: But you can just pull the presta core and then it flows even more air then these and doesn't cost 50 bucks? it's not like unscrewing the core to seat a tire is some huge task...?

I mean if these came on my new wheels I'm sure I'd be fine with them. But current presta valves are just not that big of a hassle to need a $50 dollar upgrade...

Also I don't get the point of "backing off the cap and airing down to the perfect pressure" Because you then have to take the cap off and use a gauge to check the pressure anyway? (I mean the majority of people that are "airing down" are gonna want to check what pressure they are lowering down to so they don't ruin those nice carbon rims)

 @ReserveWheels: 90%+ of tires seat easily with the core in. A few require pulling the core and hitting with the air nozzle, which has a orifice much smaller than the internal diameter of a presta valve (i.e. the valve is not a flow restriction). To me, it is an expensive solution to a problem that does not exist. That said, I am sure you will sell boatloads to consumers that will gladly buy them, and that is good, the market consists of all types of customers.

 @ReserveWheels If these don't clog over time and I can get an accurate reading on my digital air gauge, worth $50 all day long

 @ReserveWheels: just seat without the core in and you're done

 Literally all they did was make the rod longer so it seats at the bottom instead of the top. Clever solution. Charging $50 for it is just gouging. Should have just patented it and licensed the design so that everyone could have access to the solution. Instead they're being dicks as big corporations tend to be. Thinking small.

 @friendlyfoe: no one is being forced to buy it. How is it "gouging"? They aren't water, food or shelter during a storm or drought. The aren't essential. They can charge whatever they like ... license it or not. If nobody buys them, they either go away or drop on price. Or...you could come up with better solution , design, test, source/produce, package and distribute them and charge $5 if you like.

I'll await my down votes and bro bashing.

 @bman33: The overarching concept in price gouging is raising prices " to a level much higher than is considered reasonable or fair." You are referencing one specific example of price gouging. In this context I mean that they are charging an unreasonably high $$ figure for an innovation that has significantly minimal costs to design or produce. As I said, a clever solution to a simple problem. Would have been much smarter to license this almost certainly patented design to anyone who wants to produce it, resulting in better technology ending up on every bike out there. Instead they have chosen to produce it themselves and are charging an absurd amount for something that isn't any more expensive to produce. Basically they're being dicks AND it's probably resulting in them making less money at the expense of cyclists. So yeah....gouging.

 Am i the only one that never had any problem setting up tubeless tires with a floor pump and presta valves ?

 @friendlyfoe: is not gouging if you have options, simple. Can't afford it? You can still get a regular presta for $10 so nobody is forcing the consumer to get them. Here is the legal definition of price gouging "Price gouging refers to when retailers and others take advantage of spikes in demand by charging exorbitant prices for necessities, often after a natural disaster or other state of emergency. ..."

 Right? Why couldn't Reserve just start drilling their rims for Schrader and shipping them with grommets for anybody who still wants to run Presta? That would solve basically all of the same problems (more airflow, cores never come loose, valves won't bend in a crash) while still being compatible with nearly every bike pump in existence plus all of the tire inflators for motorized vehicles. But then I guess they wouldn't be able to sell as many of these $50 valves.

 Never understood why we got rid of Schrader - I could inflate my tires in gas stations or with other regular pumps. Does anybody know the reason?

Having said that and with little hope that Schrader becomes the standard again, hope this Fillmore gets scale and lower the price. Hate my current valves.

 @aug7hallak: ^^^ THIS...

Especially since most rims are wider these days anyway. (plus they had no issue using Schrader on narrow rims WAY back when)

What we really need is to be able to take our wheels down to our LBS and get them precisely drilled out and for all rim and wheel manufacturers to get onto certifying "if" their rims can be drilled out without issue by our LBS.

Done.

 @aug7hallak: Right?! I converted my kids MTB, which has Shrader valves, to tubeless. So much better than Presta both from an air volume and durability perspective. I wish, now that wheel and tire diameters are wider, that manufacturers will start spec'ing wheels with Schrader valves.

 @aug7hallak: European roadies adopted Presta because it could fit into uber-narrow rims and was light. Fast forward about a century, and mountain bikes typically used Schrader, because they're cheap, reliable, sturdy, easy to use. Oh, and hey, you can use the air compressor at every gas station. But no, that was a low performance thing, and the folks with the road bike backgrounds who got into mountain biking (and thus the industry) decided that they had to use Presta. Maybe because of some sort of ego/attitude thing, maybe because they already had Presta pumps, maybe because of a conspiracy involving some sort of cloaked reptile people. And here we are, all this time later, and we're still stuck with f-ing Presta.

And now SC/Reserve comes along and builds a better Presta valve. Being able to top up sealant without unscrewing the valve core is neat - but c'mon man, for $50, that's really the only advantage over Schrader that I see.

@ReserveWheels - nice job doing something technically interesting. Yes, you improved on Presta valves in a significant way. But you all have a good bit of cred and market power in this industry, and nobody is going to accuse you of making low-end, low-performance stuff. So how about leveraging that cred and shifting to Schrader (and then if you really want to be cool, re-direct all that innovation you just wasted on Presta towards making a better Schrader valve for those who'd gladly spend the extra so they never have to use a valve core tool again)? Otherwise, it's a case of doing an awesome job climbing the wrong mountain.

 @nozes: I just the other day helped a kid with a Schrader valve pump up their (26"x2.3") tire. Used my OneUp pump, and found it no harder than with a Presta valve. I remember in the past using hand pumps where that was a pain because they didn't get a good seal. I think the problem must have been the pump, rather than the valve...

 Yep, with wider rims, its time to bring back Schrader. I have some carbide bits to drill my carbon rims.

 @aug7hallak: you can still use schrader if your not bothered about drilling your wheels. Threaded schrader valves are quite common on what look like pit bike / go cart tubes and they all have removable cores.

 @g-42: This. I remember buying my first "real" mountain bike in about 1994 and they sales bro pointing to the presta valves as evidence it was "high end." That, and the STX-RC drivetrain meant it was "race certified." Ha!

 @aug7hallak: Beats me, too. It's like somebody up there in the "industry" decided to pull a prank and see how dumb we are.


We didnt prove him wrong.

Presta is objectively inferior in every way, but us riders have a short memory

 @nozes: Dude, i think you're using your pump wrong. It's just as easy. If anything, the need to push the bolt with Presta valves is sometimes finnicky and requires several attempts, especially if sealant is used.

 @g-42: you used the OneUp pump that is presta only to inflate at 26" Schrader valve?

I'm in 100% agreement about Schrader being the better valve design.

I distinctly remember at least one occasion where someone was spouting off that presta valves were better for high pressure applications while being stood beside an air shock that uses a Schrader valve and is rated to well over 200psi.

Presta are skinnier which was helpful in not reducing rim strength in road bikes on silly narrow rims.
That benefit is loooong gone in the both the mtb and road world.

 @foxinsocks: Come to think of it,I haven't used a hand pump on a Schrader valve for many years. When we had to pump a 26x1.9 XC tire to 40 psi it was noticeably easier with Presta valves,and it was because of those days that it became standard.
For the low pressures we run now,it makes no difference.

 @nozes: I don't think it became a standard because of the 40psi 26". Granted, in those days , before sealant, presta was not as annoying as it is today. I think it became a standard because of reduced weight, deeper rim profiles and easy compatibility with road bikes But anyways, i never found it more difficult to inflate, and im one of those riders with a puncture curse

 Lol “it’s worth struggling”

 that's pretty much how I felt. This is a $5-10 problem not a $35+ USD problem.

 Having changed 4 tubeless tires last weekend and fiddling (not struggling) with the presta cores, I would be all in for these at about $25 per bike. For $50 per bike, I'll fiddle with presta and use my compressor. It's always worked, but the convenience of these is attractive. Just not $50 attractive.

 Time is money…

 @Marquis: 76projects.com/collections/shop-other-accessories/products/hi-flow-no-clog-tubeless-valves?variant=40526085718203 $29 per wheel, not sure what shipping is like tho

 Yes, they are. Ive broken/replaced so many, and im.pretty experienced with bike maintenance. In 20 years, i had maybe one schrader valve fail.

 @foxinsocks: Also 20+ years of riding and maintaining my own bikes, including being an early adopter of tubeless, pre-UST when the Stan's conversion kits were the only game in town. Tbh, the biggest issue I've had with presta valves is tearing the tube when trying to get ultralight road tubes up to pressure with a compact hand pump. Not really an issue with tubeless, and not a problem that this is going to solve. That problem is solved by carrying enough spare CO2 cylinders and/or not running ultralight tubes.

Obviously, based on comments here, others have had a lot more struggles with presta than I have. I'll consider myself lucky and keep running my current valves for now.

 @SoCalTrev:Yeah, perhaps we're on two different sides of the luck coin when it comes to presta. But be that as it may, you do have to admit that Schrader valves are just superior in every sense, except the negligible weight penalty (i'm putting aside for a second really esoteric tall/narrow rims).

I've yet to drill all my rims, so i do run some prestas. And every time i come back to the schrader im just... calm. Pumping air in, letting air out, filling sealant- it just works so well. With Presta i'm constantly fighting- it gets clogged, can break if you pump too hard, impossible to attach threaded pumps (which i like, since they're the most reliable) without potentially pulling the core out. Its just so damn flimsy!

 Yes. The worst.

 But, what if you didn't need to ever remove the core? I know, crazy! There's enough airflow through the valve that with a HV floorpump, the tire begins seating almost within a few pumps.

 @ReserveWheels: Yes, imagine the time savings. Instead of unscrewing the core and using the air compressor I could instead screw on an adapter and use the air compressor.

Wow, take my money....

Down-voting the comments with valid critiques is pretty lame for a manufacturer...

 @ReserveWheels: What's actually crazy is the condition I let my rim tape get to, it's more pot-holed than a New Brunswick road after a hard winter, you could drive a Ford Windstar through the gap that exists between my tire's bead and the divots in my rim tape... But you know what? I don't want to change my rim tape, I'm emotionally invested in this tape, I'm committed to this barely functional piece of yellow crap pot-holes and all. But if you're telling me that these fillmores compare to a presta with the core removed, then I'll drink your kool aid.

 @nzandyb: Pot-holed New Brunswick road after a hard winter...hah, nice one.

 @stiingya: ...it uses the same pump head as presta, what is this adapter your talking about? Also, when you remove the core, you then need to pump up the tire again after seating it to inflate it. In theory, these new valves would take me half the time to inflate a newly mounted tubeless tire. Probably less if I am using a floor pump/hand pump.

 @nzandyb: "more pot-holed than a New Brunswick road after a hard winter, you could drive a Ford Windstar through the gap that exists between my tire's bead and the divots in my rim tape...."

You deserve some valves, or at least a gold star, for how much I am entertained by your writing

 I was wondering the same thing about air flow compared to a Presta valve with a removed core. I don't have an air compressor but I do have a high volume Lezyne floor pump. If I can mount a Maxxis tire with my floor pump, it looks like a great solution!

However, more importantly, will a variety of colors be available? Colorful valve stems are easy bling. At least make a variety of valve cap colors available, please.

 @sriracha: You should have no problem mounting tires with a HV floorpump. Within a few pumps, the tire will begin seating. As for colors...just black for now, but the future is unwritten.

 @talderson: My air chuck like 99% of compressors uses a schrader valve. So if you don't take the core out you have to use an adapter. So with the Reserve valve you'd screw and adapter on. With a normal valve you pull the core out and hold the air chuck at an angle and kind of press the side of the nib to inflate the tire at MAX PSI with no core. So either your removing a core, or installing an adapter. Same amount of work, but one is cheaper and you already own it.

No need to pump up the tire again, you just put your thumb over it after seating the tire. At that point you have TOO MUCH pressure. So when you then insert the core in the hole and screw it in and get your gauge you'll still be releasing air to get down to ride pressure.

Admittedly, if it's a new tire I will add more air to get it up to 45 PSI and let the casing stretch over night...?

 @ReserveWheels: but what about the really stubborn rim/tire combos where you absolutely need an open valve and a high-powered compressor or something like the air shot?

 This was my thinking.

 They are compatible with CushCore and other inserts. You may just have to push the valve a bit harder to release air. But, yeah, 100% compatible.

 @ReserveWheels: That answers my question.

 @TylerG96: Either you spend a lot of time in Canada, or you have a bunch of Canadian friends...

 @ReserveWheels: That is awesome. Great product!

 @ReserveWheels: But what about filling the tire? Can pump air pressure alone push the poppet into a tight fitting liner?

 @taprider: yep

 @ReserveWheels: Can you send me some to "test out"?

 @noakeabean: @ReserveWheels: We should probably have people testing in different nations to see... Things and stuff... and to make sure... for reasons... I will take the burden of testing for my fellow Canadians, because it's not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me.
Plus, these would look great on my reserves!

 @noakeabean: For the low, low price of $49.99...you got it.

 @ReserveWheels: You should clarify that the valves are free but shipping is $49.99.

 @tkrug: This day and age, that's a good deal!

 www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjMRj0jEef0 Switched so Schrader on all my wheels. Never looking back.

 @partsgeek: me too. The bike industry will literally do anything to avoid using the perfect solution that already exists.

 Yeah, I applaud Reserve Wheels for developing improved products, and I even won't complain about the price as I understand there was quite some effort (and money) put into product development plus higher end components, low production numbers etc. etc. But in this case it's a bit painful to know there is a really good and proven out of the box solution available... Schrader valves!

I've always drilled my 26" rims to mount Schrader valves, but they were always cheap ones and with my new 29" rims I am hesitant to try it (and lose the warranty). But now I realize how much simpler everything worked with Schrader valves.

I did convert one old rim to tubeless (Sun Singletracks...), and it worked flawlessly with Joe's Schrader Tubeless valves.

 @trialsrookie: innovation is good but this is industry silliness at its finest.

Another user @fartymarty got me onto these a few months back. I’ve since drilled out all six wheel sets in the house, including the Mrs carbon rims to take them. I think hers only needed a 1mm larger hole on them. I buy these from eBay and other valves from AliExpress.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151400052268

I would like to see carbon rim makers offer conversion as a service. Maybe allowing “CeRtiFiEd” shops to ream it would be the go? I’m going to ask the machinists at work if they can come up with a foolproof, simple (and cheap) solution to do it. At the end of the day if enlarging the valve hole by 1.5mm (0.75mm further from the centre effectively) will cause a rim to fail, then there’s a fundamental flaw with the design.

I will continue to preach the gospel of schrader until the industry ends the presta idiocy.

 I’m confused how people have such issues with valve cores and lenzyne pumps… tighten your core a little bit more and you are fine forever more

 @stormracing: I think the problem is it always happens when you are in a bit of a rush, like when the weather is shitty and you tighten the pump on just that little bit too much. Finally get the tire pumped up, then hurriedly undo the pump and woosh all that effort wasted.

 @stormracing: I've had it happen a few times over many years of use with lezyne pumps. What I find more frustrating with their pumps is how many different pump heads I've had to replace and that none of them have worked well.

 @stormracing: 99 out of 100 times, the Lezyne pumps work great. That 1 time happens to be at the top of a windy hill when it's 5 degrees below freezing and you burped your tire. True story. That was fun. Went out and bought a OneUp the next day.

 @vunugu: maybe I’ve just read all the horror stories and I’ve grown to overtighten my valve cores so that never happens haha. I get where you are coming from though!

@als802: why have you had to replace so many? I’ve been pretty pumped on mine that I got 4 years ago and use 5 plus days a week. I hope mine continues to work now!

@JustinVP: hahah yeah that don’t sound fun! Sorry that happened. Hope you got another good string of 99 pumps to go through though before another one of those stories!

 @stormracing: All the variations I've had have failed in some way or just work so poorly I replaced them. I'm currently using a push on type with the sliding lock collar for presta, which threads to schrader. Since new has worked on about 75% of prestas, it either won't lock on or blows off. At this point it works about 25% of the time. The other kinds had similar issues, they worked ok for awhile but never consistently or well.

 Lezyne pumps are the problem, not the valves. Nerver had a worse pump and I had many.

 FWIW, Fillmore will work without the cap. If you happen to lose the cap, contact our rider support team. We got you.

 Bingo!

 Thanks Hardtail Party. Love what you're doing over there on your channel.

 Yep, works with inserts...just need to push valve a bit harder to release air. Any sealant would be pushed through by pump and not stay in valve. And, we'd recommend an injector that goes over the valve.

 But, what if you never needed to remove the core? Fillmore valves use a combination of 7000 series aluminum combined with a stainless steel internal rod and should last as long as you own your bike

 The air flow on the Fillmore valve is the same as a typical valve with no core installed. Inflating and deflating.

 That was our goal.

 Agreed - I've never been able to easily seat Maxxis tires on my Reserves, even with a tubeless setter or air compressor, because the air just blows right underneath the gap between the tire bead and dimple in the tape from the spoke holes. I have a tube that only gets used for this - I first mount the tire with a tube to get the bead up on the rim, then unmount the tire on the side further away from the offset and remove the tube, leaving the tire already up and over the rim on the difficult side. Remount the tire, fill with sealant, and the tire seats easily from there.

 

 I hope 76 did there patent research...

 Having trouble with the 76projects website loading... but if these Reserve valves are just a copy of those.... I retract my previous comment!

 @stella10: Has this been done before? I've always hated presta valves, so was pretty excited to see these.

 76 valves are the same terrible design as V-max and PMP. This design has many flaws which is why it never gained traction with those other brands

 @AckshunW: Looks like the design internally is different, but the name is literally "Hi Flow, No Clog" which SC literally says in this video LOL.

 cant inject sealant through one of those

 @bonkmasterflex: wut? I was saying that schrader valves cant get sealant injected through them. Sometimes giving a little top off through the valve is just way easier than unseating the tire.

 @adrennan: Yes you can. If the tire is empty, you can actually do it without even removing the core, but if you want to make it easier you do it just like a presta valve: unthread the core, put in the sealant, put the core back in, you're done. It's the same way they seat tires in an auto shop to get the max volume of air, and you can get the tool at Walmart, any Auto shop, etc.

 @adrennan: For example your car has a removable core, they remove it to seat tyres - never saw how car tyres are seated?

Same with bikes, remove core, inject sealant, install core, done.

 @adrennan: They all have a removable core

 @tonit91: I don't exactly go look over the car mechanics shoulder while they work. Next time I will and say you sent me

 @adrennan: Every schrader valve has a removeable core. As Tonit91 said, it's required to seat tires. That being said, schrader valves allow for more air than a presta valve, so you could probably seat a tubeless bicycle tire without even removing the core.

 @nickfranko: I'm gonna say you can absolutely seat a bike tire with a schrader valve in place. Some of the things that I hear (on pinkbike in particular) makes me think a lot less people should be working on their bikes themselves.

 @drunknride: As long as they're willing to learn, that's what really matters. Or, because it's PB, we can all fight each other. Lol

 >> I spend my valuable ride time cleaning my F$%ing valves.

You've really optimized your life! ...and yet you wasted at least minutes commenting on a bike website for jerks like me...

 @plyawn: We'll I'm at work now so no ride time wasted, maybe just a little work time wasted

 Thanks Giro. You keep up the good work, too and we'll see you out there on the trails.

 We offer a lifetime warranty for the original owner. So, if you ever had problems with the Fillmore valve, contact our Rider Support Team and we'll get you squared away.

 Because we buy it. Same answer that applies for most of the "changes" in the industry

 We are/were Santa Cruz Reserve...same as we've always been. Just trying to be a bit more of our own thing...but still the same great warranty and service we've always been known for.

 @ReserveWheels: Thanks for the clarification. Appreciate your responses.

 Same. I always remove the core to add sealant and have had clogging issues exactly zero times. To me this is a solution looking for a problem...

 Or this one: www.mts-tubes.com/shop

 I got 4 of them, they are very nice. Especially compared to presta valves^^

 yes I use the shit out of those. Not sure this rad new product does anything different.

 I'll agree that those 2oz bottles are convenient to use on the one-off tire set up, but having an injector is definitely a better way to go. My household has 9 mountain bikes, and if I needed a 2oz bottle for every wheel for each bike, I would be stuck with a pile of those little bottles. Much nicer to have 1 big bottle of sealant, and an injector to go around to each bike. Certainly more eco-friendly that way too. Can you imagine if shops used 2oz bottles for every tubeless setup?

 @leon-forfar: Where I work, we have one 2 oz bottle that gets reused over and over again... That said, I'm the oddball who prefers to use the injector syringe.

 @leon-forfar: you really setting up 9 bikes tubeless at the same time and need a "pile" o 2oz botles?

By that logic you need a "pile" of injectors too...?

 @stiingya: Fair point, but you have to pour the sealant from a bigger bottle into the smaller 2oz bottle and risk a spill. The injector will be cleaner and can fit more than the 2oz of sealant in one go.

 @leon-forfar: We'll I have spilled a little now and then! Nothin to cry over though... But the bottles seem to work fine for occasional top ups though the valve. I pour it in the side of the tire before I close it up installing a new tire.

Nothing wrong with buying an injector though!

 i was gonna link these, and they work with inserts

 Yes, it works, but the poppet pushes against the CushCore when you release pressure, so it takes additional force on the cap to let the air out of the tires.

 We attempted to ensure proper function with every pump and gauge during the design process.

 Hah.

 uh yeah... thats how you know its time buy new cores

 You can add sealant directly through the valve simply by removing all pressure in the tire and using either a syringe style injector with tube or cutting the top of the sealant bottle to size.

 @ReserveWheels: Thnx for the update, I would not say I have problem with current Presta valves, however in case will experience any issue, or with new wheels will upgrade

 Can't 100% guarantee, but we have tried most of the gauges on the market today without issue.

 @MegaMatt5000, my Topeak Digital Shuttle gauge works with these valves without any trouble.

 The poppet doesn't 'need' the cap to work. Air pressure in tire would hold poppet closed. If you lose the cap, the valve still works to get you home. And, you can contact us and we'll get a new cap out to you.

 @ReserveWheels: sorry guys – delayed reply I understand, I’ve been super busy, just want to say a massive thank you for replying in the first place. Really appreciate the design ethos.

 The system is designed to hold tire pressure with or without an air cap. If you lose the caps, contact our Rider Support Team and we'll get you taken care of.

 100%...yep...just need to push valve a bit harder to release air. But, is compatible.

 yes

 Yes, Stan's shouldn't pose any problems. You can add sealant directly through the valve simply by removing all pressure in the tire and using either a syringe style injector with tube or cutting the top of the sealant bottle to size.

 @ReserveWheels: this comment thread is the top hit when trying to figure out if Stan's *Race* Sealant will fit through Fillmore valves. I just tried based on this comment. My experience was "yes" with a pretty big asterisk that it partially blocked the Stans Injector I was using, which made life tricky. (The valves are great).

 The future is a sea of possibilities.

 It'd be pretty hard to bend the pin - it's a lot less fragile than what's used in a typical Presta valve, since it extends the whole way through the valve.

 Seriously doubt that… and Lifetime warranty

 go buy a razor scooter

 Yep, it works, but the poppet pushes against the tire inserts when you release pressure, so it takes additional force on the cap to let the air out of the tires.

 5.5g per