At a time when the current buzzwords in mountain bikes are longer, lower, and slacker, there is one brand that can hold their heads high. Mondraker were well ahead of the curve and possibly pushed others in the industry onto the path that we’re currently moving along when they first introduced their Forward Geometry back around 2012—a concept that they worked with Fabien Barel and Cesar Rojo on implementing.
Roll ahead five years and a similar concept has been fostered by more brands throughout the industry, generating longer front centers and steepening the seat tube angles of bikes throughout, while Mondraker has worked on perfecting the design within their line of bikes. The Dune, tested here, is the brand’s 160mm all-mountain machine, and while not quite as long as their shorter travel Foxy, it’s still at the longer end of what’s available on the market.
Mondraker Dune Details• Intended use: all-mountain/enduro
• Travel: 160mm
• 27.5" wheels
• 66-degree head angle (adjustable to 65-degrees)
• 74.7-degree seat angle
• 12 x 142mm rear spacing
• 215mm x 63mm shock
• 73mm threaded BB
• 1x drivetrain only
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL (XL tested)
• Weight: 13.77kg/30.36lbs w/o pedals as tested (XR model)
• Price: $9,400 USD (8,999 € )
•
www.mondraker.com At 66-degrees the Dune comes with a head angle that is on the more conservative side of things for a bike of its nature, and the chainstays are pretty short at 430mm (16.9 inches). However, Mondraker supply a +/- 1-degree headset cup and a chip that extends the stays 10mm. It’s also one of the few bikes in this category that comes equipped with a coil shock (in the XR model tested), something that could excite a number of aggressive riders out there.
Currently, the Dune doesn’t feature the latest in spacing standards, instead sporting a 12 x 142mm rear end. The fork does come with a 15 x 110mm Fox fork for 2018; however, the 2017 model tested featured the 15 x 100mm spacing. Cable routing is internal and is secured in place by grommets that are tightened down once the cable is threaded into place, and the frame features a slender and fluid series of lines that contribute to making this one a looker, even in the larger sizes.
Suspension Design Mondraker’s bikes feature their own suspension design which they’ve labeled Zero Suspension System—it could be a confusing name for a system that is anything but “zero,” though there is a valid reason behind it. Mondraker claim that the design provides zero power loss, zero pedal kickback with minimal chain growth throughout the bikes travel, and zero bumps, with them claiming that the system is able to handle trail features so well it smooths out the ride.
The design is based on two short links that mount the shock between them, as opposed to one eyelet of the shock mounting to a point on the frame like with many other dual-link designs. This style of mount sees the shock compressed between the two links as the bike is pushed through its travel, an element similar to Trek’s design, but that’s where the similarities end.
The Zero Suspension System of the Dune is set up to work with either a coil or air shock and the XR model tested here comes stock with the Fox DHX2. While the leverage curve is progressive it isn’t overly so, making it possible for Mondraker to run either of the two shock options. Brake squat is noticeable in the design, with the bike liking to “sink” into its travel when getting on the anchors. The bike also exhibits decent anti-squat, with the goal of supplying riders with a firm platform while on the pedals, despite the 160mm travel.
Geometry/Sizing We already mentioned Mondraker’s use of Forward Geometry and the effect that the concept has had on the industry, but what is it? Simply put, the concept is to increase the front center of the bike and fit it with a short, 30mm stem. The move provides riders with more room between the bottom bracket and headtube but keeps the bars in a similar position.
The resulting longer front-center is said to provide greater stability on the trail, especially where higher speeds are involved and, Mondraker hope, more confidence from riders on such a bike. The shorter stem grants a more precise, direct steering response and keeps the rider feeling like they are in a similarly sized cockpit to what they’re used to.
Mondraker also provides Dune riders with the ability to adjust the head angle and chainstay length of the bike through a separate, provided headset and set of dropout chips for the chainstay. These adjustments make it possible to change the head angle from the stock 66 degrees to either a steeper 67 degrees or slacker 65 degrees and extend the chainstay—and subsequently, the wheelbase—10mm from 430mm to 440mm. The wheelbase grows from 1265mm to 1275mm.
Despite not spreading the rider out as much as the shorter travel Foxy, the Dune’s 10mm longer stays (stock) produce a wheelbase that is the same in its bone stock form as the longer reach, shorter travel Foxy.
Specifications
Specifications
|
Price
|
$9400 |
|
Travel |
160mm |
|
Rear Shock |
Fox DHX2 |
|
Fork |
Fox Factory 36 FIT HSC/LSC |
|
Headset |
Onoff Titan internally Tapered |
|
Cassette |
SRAM 1275 10–50 |
|
Crankarms |
Race Face Sixc |
|
Bottom Bracket |
Race Face |
|
Rear Derailleur |
SRAM X01 |
|
Chain |
SRAM GX |
|
Shifter Pods |
SRAM X01 |
|
Handlebar |
Onoff Stoic Carbon |
|
Stem |
Onoff Stoic FG 30mm |
|
Grips |
Onoff Diamond |
|
Brakes |
SRAM Guide RSC |
|
Wheelset |
DT Swiss EX150 |
|
Tires |
Maxxis High Roller II 2.3 |
|
Seat |
SDG Circuit |
|
Seatpost |
Fox Transfer 150 |
|
Handling Jumping on the Dune I was immediately comfortable with the geometry, despite the reach being in excess of 30mm longer than my regular ride, and once the bar height was set perfectly, it was ready to rip. Stack height was reasonable and the bike comes stock with plenty of stem spacers, allowing for adjustability to cover a lot of riders and riding styles, including swapping out bars from the stock half-inch rise ones included.
The first thing I noticed on the trails was how composed the bike is, with the coil shock no doubt assisting, but this on its own is not the only reason, and it would be short-sighted for me to place all of that stability on the coil shock. The longer wheelbase is a large contributor to the Dune’s stability, and combined with the very strong performance of the Fox 36 HSC/LSC fork and the DHX2 shock it creates one confidence inspiring ride. The frame also exhibits a great, balanced ride feel, never deflecting off line thanks to it being overly stiff, nor did it lack the zest from being too soft. It’s finely tuned and provides an excellent trail feel, balancing responsiveness and forgiveness incredibly well, as far as flex goes.
Initially, the bike was tested with a 2017 DHX2, which felt good, though I had to drop a number of spring weights to have the bike settle how it needed to. The 2017 shock has a heavier tune (is more restricted), which resulted in the compression being left quite open in an effort to get the suspension to conform to the terrain. The bike still performed incredibly and it was during these first few rides that the abilities of the Dune really surprised me, but after blowing the 2017 shock we were sent the 2018 to continue the test.
For 2018, Fox has lightened the tune on the DHX2, and as a result, the spring rate needed to be bumped up. The lighter tune on the 2018 DHX2 allowed for more use of the damper circuit while still being able to keep the Dune’s suspension as compliant as possible, really granting a lot more adjustability for a range of riders and terrain. Traction was improved even more thanks to the increased, usable tuning range and the bike now could be better adjusted to ride to preference, whether that be lively with more support, or track the ground like a snake; either of these and the range between could be better achieved.
In its stock form (66-degree head angle/430mm chainstays) the Dune would motor down the gnarliest trails with little concern, with the added length making up for the one-degree steeper head angle than many others in this category, but I still wanted more. How capable could it be? How much could it mute the trail chatter on my favourite trails, while still being fun and lively on the machine-built stuff around the area? The one-degree slacker headset was thrown in to check it out and the chainstay left at 430 to limit the variables.
Once the slacker headset was installed, the bike exhibited a more planted feel and as one could imagine, on steeper terrain it required a less drastic shift to correct weight displacement than with the steeper head angle. The front wheel felt considerably farther ahead, despite only being one-degree, but aside from granting even more confidence to charge, steering and climbing remained very good.
In fact, the long 1265mm wheelbase saw me make it up some tight switchbacks with relative ease. Those same switchbacks have always proven troublesome regardless of the bike, but here I was on the longest trail bike I’ve ridden to date, making it around the corners easily. This sort of experience was repeated on a number of occasions during testing, regardless of the head angle setting or chainstay length.
With the Dune proving to be incredibly capable in all situations and a lot of fun to ride, regardless of whether trying to go quick or jib and play about, I wanted to see what the longest chainstay would be like. A simple swap of the dropout chips extends the chainstay of the bike from 430mm to 440mm, and the wheelbase out to roughly 1275mm. The change had no noticeably negative effect to the bike's handling. It did require a little more effort to rock back into a manual, but it took seconds to sort out.
Instead, the change resulted in the bike cornering even more like it was on rails, with the longer rear placing the rider closer to the center of the wheelbase. Going back to the shorter chips resulted in a number of near loop-outs and blown corners as a result of the wheel being too close to the rider. Climbing was improved also, with the bike now exhibiting more traction and requiring less rider weight shifts to get up tricky sections—there was more traction at the rear wheel with less input.
In the end the bike was left with the long stays and slack head angle, and never came close to being problematic, regardless of whether riding old-school awkward jank, or completely unknown trails—a situation where something like a long wheelbase, if truly problematic, could make itself known quickly.
ThoughtsGeometry: The extra large Dune may seem like a really big bike to some, but it was one of the best fitting bikes this 6’3” tester has swung a leg over. Back pain disappeared, riding all day was comfortable, and the stack provided an excellent range of adjustment. Where it could be improved is in the seat tube.
The 20-inch seat tube meant that installing a 175mm dropper was questionable. Fortunately it fit, just, but the interrupted seat tube almost put an end to that update, with the bottom of the post bottoming on the end of the seat tube. There was about 19mm of room to wiggle before the collar of the post would have bottomed on the top of the seat tube.
With more options available for posts above 150mm, it'd be great to see more frames lower the seat tower, granting riders the ability to run longer droppers and get more clearance.
The seat angle could be even steeper too, at least in my experience, and while the 74.7-degree effective post currently on the Dune is very good, taller riders, or those with proportionally longer inseams will find their weight scooted out considerably closer to that rear hub thanks to the pretty slack actual seat tube angle (69.9 degrees).
• Suspension: While the Dune’s Zero Suspension performed incredibly well, the progression at the end of the stroke did prove to be a little light with a coil. With the correct spring rate in place it was possible to bottom out, and fairly firmly, on features that an air shock had no issue with. Adding high-speed compression did help, but to get the amount needed to prevent bottoming meant that traction and composure were negatively affected.
One solution is to run a heavier spring weight and lose some of the top end, which with the Dune is possible, but I prefer the bike to sit into its travel comfortably with a light top end, so the more occasional bottom out was a sacrifice I was willing to make. The bike is also available in models with the Float X2.
• Finish: The Mondraker is definitely a more premium product, with the Dune XR here coming in at $9,400 USD. Thankfully the frame comes with a high-quality finish as opposed to some of the bikes available for similar money. The Mondraker is up there with the likes of Santa Cruz, where every little detail appears to have been thought out and well executed even down to the shock bolts. Frame protection along the chainstay is among the best ridden, with every element covered. The protection remained in place of the entire testing period as well. The included headsets, chainstay chips, 200mm rear brake adapters are a nice touch too.
The one area where they may fall short for some is in the internal routing. The frame includes internal cable routing but doesn’t do so with tubes to feed the cables through—this can present some problems when installing new cables. Thankfully the system for securing the cables employed by Mondraker does a fantastic job of keeping them quiet if setup correctly, while also keeping cables in place, with no cable creep to speak of.
• Adjustability: Having the ability to adjust the geometry on the Dune is a definite draw for some. Receiving a bike with short stays and the ability to extend them, allowing riders to actually try out longer variations without having to worry about being stuck with something that perhaps isn’t for them is great. It’s led me on a path to go longer and longer after having no issues with the length on the Mondraker. It’s also got the potential to help those that ride or race in a lot of different terrain, giving them the ability to change it to suit, if the longer lengths aren’t favourable. Not sure where that may happen, given the bike's abilities in the jank of the North Shore and throughout the Sea to Sky, but the option is at least there for those that want it.
Component Check • Fox Factory 36: There’s a reason that the 36 received our
Suspension Product of the Year Award for 2016. The fork works incredibly well and provides a very controlled and efficient use of the stroke. It’s said that it’s been improved again for 2018, but the 2017 fork is already a great option.
• DT EX1501 Wheels: The EX 1501 wheels from DT are an incredible alloy wheel. The hubs roll smooth even after a summer of abuse and the rims, despite containing a couple of dings, survived all that this bike can handle, which is a considerable amount. Ride feel is great and the 30mm internal width provided an excellent, stable tire profile, whether with the included 2.3 High Roller II’s or the Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.35’s opted for.
• Fox Transfer: The Transfer is a great post for the money. We did, however, find the one on the Mondraker to rattle and create noise on the trail. I also am not a fan of the small square surface used to trigger the remote, especially now that there are many great options for more ergonomic remotes available. With the max available drop of 150mm, the post was removed in favour of something that would allow more clearance on the trail.
• Onoff Touch Points: Having never had experience with the Onoff accessories I was pleasantly surprised with the quality and feel. The bars feature a 9-degree backsweep and 5-degree up and proved very comfortable. The grips, which are similar to a Ruffian, were very comfortable and the solid rubber outboard end was durable and added to the comfort.
• Maxxis High Roller II: The High Roller II is a great tire that I’ve gotten on fine with in the past. Unfortunately, the compound supplied as an OE part on the Dune wasn’t what I would look for and it surprised me to see the Exo sidewalls on such a rowdy capable sled. The tires were removed and replaced with Super Gravity treads after a couple of outings and the ride was rewarded with another level of stability as a result.
Pinkbike's Take: | The Mondraker Dune XR is an incredible bike that is loads of fun to ride. Yes, it's $9,400 USD price tag is by no means cheap but there are three carbon and two alloy models available in the range to cover a number of budgets. Bikes of similar quality cost around the same amount and won't include the extras for adjusting the wheelbase and head angle either. Its composure and ability to make rough trail more manageable grants riders heaps of confidence. It can comfortably handle the gnarliest trails in the Whistler Bike Park and throughout the coastal B.C. region and it's completely capable of fun-having on mellower more average rides with a few clicks of adjustment. Extending the wheelbase only increased the capabilities in rough or fast terrain, with no sign of negative effects elsewhere.
For riders looking at aggressive trail bikes, one that can ride the bike park and spend the day on the local trails, possibly with some adjustability in there, the Dune is a must look.
— AJ Barlas |
They are great alloy wheels granted, but 10 grand & alloy wheels, own brand components, GX parts & not even Guide Ultimates?
They are on crack.
And its a Mondraker. It will probably break.
Most bikes can if you put it together yourself starting with a ~$3k frame.
Is this despite the fact that the female side of the bike industry is growing at a huge rate and young people are more into mtb than ever as people become more aware of lifestyle and the environment?
Just because you don't have the 10k available to purchase this bike doesn't mean it shouldn't exist, it also doesn't mean its this price 'because vagina and youth'.
The MTB industry is seeing prices going ever higher for top rate kit, but what do you expect? Low volume sales of ultra specific and high performance push bicycles will cost lots of cash, the BIG however is that you can go to YT, Nukeproof, Calibre and a whole host of other guys and pick up an immense bike for 2.5K.
Cost is driven by the cost of business and profit - not by women and young people, you massive nutter.
That bike company deserves my money.
If you want carbon wheels, sick spec etc you can get a YT Capra for half this money. It won't come with a Mondraker carbon frame though.
For how much I paid the components could have been so much better however......the frame is absolutely incredible and it rides super sweet.
Too expensive? Hell yeah. Worth it? Hell no. Do I love it. f*ckin A I do.
If we're going to have it, at least make it a long, golden, shaft )
Kinda strange that the least sophisticated part of the bike is a third tier spec on a $9400 bike.
Furthermore here is a quick price breakdown:
DT wheels $1k
Fox fork $1k
cranks are $400
and lets say the drivetrain and cockpit are $1k
That is $6k for the frame and fork
Sorry...I agree with most of what you are saying on this bike...BUT do you want to have the best components for the price or just carbon for the sake of carbon, because you think everything carbon is just the best?
Or in other words: You fell completely for the Marketing BS of a lot of brands, telling you carbon is the best, because they can basically sell it to you at a much higher price...
Seriously guys: Wake up: Carbon is NOT the non-plus-ultra for components. It's only a material, which might make sense for certain parts. In fact, for most it just doesn't!
They are selling a luxury good, it isn't your gas / electricity supplier you are scrutinising, they can price their product however they see fit, if as you say it is too high and nobody buys it they will either adjust or cease trading.
How much is apple making on the new iPhone X? How much do LV make on a handbag? Do you have to buy either? People still do though....
Of course, anyone can buy what they want (money buys dreams after all) and if the firm can turn a profit from this business model then great! Everyone's happy :-)
You are kind of suggesting that multi million pound worldwide bicycle companies dont complete an analysis on pricing / cost their bikes correctly but we are able to do this on Pinkbike in 5 mins?
The analysis that is happening on here directly concerns cost of production but no other aspect such as supply chain and the potential that they just think they can ask for this price 'because it is good'.
They look to have exposed to the greater public that carbon waste is dumped directly into the sea at some factories and because of that people have gone into meltdown about carbon products.
At its current popularity its not the carbon itself that is the problem, it just isn't entirely that wide-spread in commodities around the world outside of high end goods so its the culture behind the particular factory that is at fault - change their culture and the problem stops, send the frames to be ground up by an injection moulding company for use in reinforcing plastics for example and the problem could be dealt with.
Aluminium production isn't nice either - anyone remember the village that was destroyed by a flood by an aluminium factory, it was horrendous but we are not calling aluminium frames all out to be the devil. Steel, well that has its own issues too and if the culture behind their production is poor then the same will take place - dump the crap into the sea.
Its all about changing the manufacturers culture first, that will make the biggest change to the environment, after that we can then start to scrutinise material choice, I'm not saying carbon is as good, better or worse, I'm saying that currently its who is making it not what its made from that's the issue.
reminds me of the price of an Intense...
Edit* Currently looking at the Canyon Strive CF 7.0 which is $3,999 USD, then replacing the wheels and brakes with hope parts and a box drive train.
I do think a poll on how much we spend would be great though!
If you are too poor, then sorry, but maybe you should have tried harder at school....... you need to stop hating on everything!!!!
Is it just me or do prices seem to becoming inflated? Remember $5 footlongs? Now they're $7.
@hamncheez - look at variety ofgeometries from XC hardtail to 170 Fr bike. Bike Fit suggests that only one bike is good for one person. there surely is some really bad setup, but I think "just right" is a rather wide spectrum for MTB.
@vinay, I saw Abi's vids, tried some stretches, they are great - I should definitely do them more often.
@BenPea, I was referring to Waki's post, which he explained in details later. I bet that the position on the bike can impact back pain...
@WAKIdesigns, cheers mate! It's true that manualing is terrible for my back. Will give it some thought.
If you aren't sure where to look for a good program, James Wilsons Ultimate MTB Workout program is really good. It comes with schedules and basic instructions, and you can do most of the stuff with basic equipment at home. bikejames.com Then I cannot recommend enough the caliesthenics program by thenx.com. This will get your core and shoulders strong and durable as hell and most of it is body weight.
@hamncheez - it all depends. As I said, there is surely some "fit" for each person on each bike, but in case of most MTBs, it's a rather wide spectrum. I personally like steep seat angles in particular, especially for long distances in the saddle. I'd say that before someone blames the bike, I want him to touch his toes, deadlift 1.5x body weight, squat 1x body weight and do 6-8 legit pull ups.
Bike fit for road cycling is polishing a turd and spraying it with Chanel no5. A rather dreadful position for a human body to be in, is being made less dreadful. For people who spend 99% of their riding time in a non aerodynamic position rendering drop bars useless and compromising ability to pull hard on the brakes when needed. 50% of bike fit is a trick for a bike shop to sell a bike, "oh and by the way, if you buy this one, you'll get a bike fit for free, otherwise it costs 100$.
The only person who I know, who got close to making bike fit for MTB meaningful, is Lee McCormack, and that's still good for a beginner. Quite frankly if you follow producers size chart, it's hard to mess up. Unless that bike is simply awkward.
@WAKIdesigns: and you can piss off if you think anything good ever happened in a gym!
As for fit, just use feeling.
I love it! You're killing it!
Why is it that people in the bike industry seem to question pricing so aggressively of a product they have no intention of buying - there are many other options and if it doesn't sell they will either stop selling it or cease trading.
Why does this make you mad and what does it have to do with your life choices and why you ride an upgraded 2013 bike, that is completely irrelevant, especially as if people stopped buying new where would you get your used bikes from?
Go get upset about your government and the way society screws the masses and gives ever more to the rich, don't get mad because a business produces a product you don't need that you can't afford.
The kinematic is said to be slightly progressive. My feeling is that it is in fact linear.
I'm really small and lightweight (59kgs), my abilities on a bike are below average... But I still had to put three volume reducers in the positive chamber of my shock.
What about your setups?
Three volume spacers won't do too much if you look at the percentages,see p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/109/slideshows/9020/photos/18349/s1200_slideshow_photo_1434511038.jpg
Spring rate will not scale over big hits, so intead of adding volume spacers, try increasing compression damping a notch. For monarch, it means moar shims or thicker oil.
3 bands in the positive chamber, and 25% sag instead of the 30% mondraker recomand.
It's ok for my vosgian trails (really old mountains fully eroded ), and my ridiculous skills.
But 30% sag and a coil shock??
Seems like mondraker's recomandations won't work really well.
And if you want to ride the bike at full enduro pace in the alps, you will need some proper preparation for the shock.
Mondraker web page asest that variable headset, chainstais and coil shock option is only abailable in carbon frames, but CCDB Coil CS suits in the alloy frame and performs wonderfully.
1'8m and short inseam in medium size, and for me is spot on, cockpit is renthal apex 40mm and fatbar 38mm rise.
Would expect better component choice in a 10k Bike, but they nailed with the frame
One could at least expect SRAM Eagle transmission.
Pros:
It inspires great confidence when going downhill and seamlessly digests gnarly sections like it was nothing.
Even though it can be really physical to ride, its geometry makes is pretty forgiving. In my experience some well deserved OTBs were black magically avoided.
It climbs just great, the only "issue" I experienced is that the weight on the front wheel feels a bit light when making U-turns on climbs.
The firm position of the coil is almost useless since Zero suspension makes nothing pump as long as you stay on the saddle !
It looks incredible. One of the most beautiful frames there is.
Small detail: rear mud guard does great job preventing dust and all to get in the damper. I had an older dune and the damper didn't have this luck and often ended up
Cons:
No boost
The HRII exo have nothing to do on this setup, I can't wait for my tires to wear off to mount my Schwalbe super gravity instead, considering how full of punctures is my rear tire, it should happen soon.
I went through a bit of trouble to get the coil settings rights, there are so many possible adjustments, "Sunday mechanics" like me can be overwhelmed by this many possible adjustments:
Low-speed compression
High-speed compression
Low-speed Rebound
High-speed Rebound
Coil spring preload
Now it feels super good but I'm still convinced that it can potentially be like 10 times better...
Mud clearance not fantastic: Spain is not known for terrains with sticky mud and you can feel that ! I live in the south of France so I'm OK on my rocky terrain though !)
I have chips all over the place around the BB too. I have my own solution, but it probably isn't acceptable to anyone but me...
Thinking about it:
1) For any rocks, sticks, etc to damage the cables, they would have to enter from the side, but the cranks, pedals & my legs & feet are in the way.
2) As the shock compresses the cables become flush with frame, making 1 even more unlikely.
Try removing and re-installing dropouts, it's what fixed mine. I noticed this after I had done complete bearing change and the creaking sound didn't change at all.
Isn't it weird to have the smaller bike feature more extreme geometry than the pure race missile that is the Dune ?
Really? I would only want want a DH bike on the gnarliest trails there.
Where's the custom vinyl wrap???
How is that Spartan review coming along?
But when you learn to ride it completely differently, they start to come alive and eventually surpass shorter bikes.
Now if I try a mate's "standard" bike, it feels awkward and small
I am not convinced that a longer bike surpasses a shorter bike. Different horses for different courses. I think for talller riders like the reviewer, a longer bike will fit them better.
My own experience is that I have a long dh bike and a short trail bike. They’re both great at their intended uses and I don’t feel like one design is better than the other.
Instant disintrest.
Any reasons in particular? Given that within another 3-4 years multi ring bikes are going to be very few and far between, you are going to be mightily depressed about your bike choices.
I'm running a 32 oval (31-34 normal) on a 29er and still managed to grunt up a mile long steep uphill in 3rd gear the other day.
x1 is no hub standar, mate, is a true improvement
I have a Mondraker Crafty RR+, which is also 1x only. Before I get accused of being a luddite. I also rode 1x before it was cool all those years ago. That being said.
I don't like that 1x forces me to use the bottom and top of the cassette exclusively. I despise being forced to run an extra long mech and I hate that when downhilling I ride at lowest chain tension - so I get tons of noise from the drivetrain. I don't like that I have, effectively, four gears for the flats.
And yes. I am going to be mightly annoyed when every manufacturer goes full laziness mode and goes 1x for the entire range. Sure, If you want to ride 1x - go ahead. I'm not judging. However I don't wish to be forcifully tagged along for that.