Les Queyras, France: A Different Tour de France

Aug 26, 2017
by Matej Kodrin  
Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

From plain fields to steep mountain passes, the Tour de France takes riders around on the paved roads of the country. 'Outdoorstation.si' took us on a bit of a different tour.

We first met on a hot, Saturday morning in Ljubljana on the 24th of July. Three of the members had already gone to France to arrange all the things needed to be prepared, so there were six of us left. I know two of them from before, others were soon to be new friends. Road-tripping across Italy in a van with AC was refreshing while the temperatures outside were way above 30°C. We had a ton of time to get to know each other, talk about bikes, trips, playing card games etc. I even got to sleep for 15 minutes, which is surprising for me, considering I can rarely sleep in a moving vehicle.

Queyras is a valley located in Hautes Alpes and is reachable by two mountain passes with prestigious names; Col d'Izoard and Col Agnel, or by a tight gorge, Combe du Queyras. As soon as we drove through it, we found ourselves in a totally new (or old) world. It is known as one of the oldest mountain ranges in Europe and one of the last ones to be opened to tourism. Since then, it was promoted to Regional Natural Park, which spans over 650km-squared.

Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Green fields above Molines en Queyras.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Saint Veran; the third highest village in Europe.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Tete des Toillies in the middle.


Its purity is visible at every step. Nature and traditions are preserved like nowhere else I've been so far. Old villages with typical farms with balconies and slate roofs high above valley floors, friendly people, pristine local food, no tourists or crowd whatsoever. Hotels are rare, most of them are more like monuments to once better times and are now closed. Our home for a week-long stay was our tents in a camp; Chanterane just beneath the village of Pierre Grosse on an altitude of 1900m.

Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Follow me.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Pointy peaks and steep ascents.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Where the trail ends and the freeride starts.


Although tourism isn't glowing, the trail system is well supported. Everywhere you go, the posted signs and little marks on trees and rocks in a shape of Austrian flag will keep you on the right track. Trails are maintained regularly, on more frequently used trails they even contain lone hikers with ropes and columns with kind notes to stay on the trail in three languages. I first read about this method when writing my masters' degree on environmental impact on trails.

Mountain biking? Paradise. Everyone who loves riding flowy, natural trails with a variety of different obstacles from different rock surfaces at the top, grassy and dirt ground in the middle and roots at the bottom, enjoys solitude and wild nature will love it here. Our plan was to explore; since maps and websites don't tell you much, no one really knew what to expect out in the open. What we found day-after-day was amazing.

Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Queyras


The most iconic descent is the one from Col Vieux passing two mountain lakes and dropping to the other side all the way down to Abries. Some 15 kilometers of descending from 2,800m with magnificent scenery, surrounded by steep mountains still has me buzzing. It's an absolute must for every mountain biker when staying in the Queyras region.

Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

View from Col de Vioux in direction of our descent.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Pain de Sucre in the background.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Lake number one.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Magnificent nature.


Having few ski slopes, there is only one bike park in the valley and it's located in Abries. It's open from July 1st, so we just missed the opening, but rode the trails one day nevertheless. It was fun changing the riding style a bit for a run down D4 with berms and jumps, but one would be a fool just to ride park and not the natural trails surrounding.

On the last day, we ended on a high-note with a climb up to Sommet de la Lauziere (2,576m) and a technical trail down to Ristolas. Having to carry the bikes on our backs because of the steepness and exposure was just what I was looking for all week. The satisfaction you get reaching the top of a totally unknown territory can hardly be described. The trail is also marked as GR58 and is a part of Tour de Queyras—a tour around all the scenic mountains in the natural park—so it has to be good!

Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Ridge from Collete de Gilly.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Riding the ridge.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Action!


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Descent from Sommet de la Lauzier.


No trip is complete without any misfortune and I had my share. The second day of riding, my back wheel broke as I destroyed the bearing. I thought my trip was over and I was already planning how I would be hiking to the end of the week but fortunately, I was on a trip with some of the most open people I met and we came out with a plan to take my wheel all the way back to Briancon for a repair. With a fixed wheel, I was fastback in the game. But misfortune struck again soon and while orienting myself around the camp at night without a headlamp, I fell and twisted my ankle. First thing in the morning, I put it the freezer (a stream near camp) and afterward, it was manageable. I'm still icing it as I'm writing this.

The weather didn't play in our favor either. As soon as we came, the temperatures dropped and it rained almost every afternoon. The snow line got seriously low on Wednesday, reaching just above Pierre Grosse at about 2,200m. But only bad weather can make you want something even more and it strengthens you.

Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Snowline right above village of Pierre Grosse.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Trails in the woods.


Once you take a step outside the natural park, you instantly change from an explorer to a tourist. Col d'Izoard is a mountain pass often used during the Tour de France race and this year is no different. It was crowded at the top with motorcyclists, roadies, and tourists taking pictures all over the place. It was a totally different feel than to France that we've been used to the past week.

Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Col d'Izoard is frequently used during the Tour de France and is classified as the HC climb.


Queyras Valley Hautes Alpes

Tour de France everywhere you look.


I would like to thank Tomaž from 'Outdoorstation.si' for organizing and leading the trip, Jan for the guiding and tips, Andrej, Borut, Tomaž, Nejc, David and Daša for their great company and a ton of fun we had together.

No GPS tracks; here is only a list of summits:

Sunday: Col Du Longet, 2,701m
Monday: Col Fromage, 2,345m
Tuesday: Col Vieux, 2,806m
Wednesday: Gardiole Del Alp, 2,140m
Thursday: Col Vieux, 2,806m and Enduro Park Abries, 2300m
Friday: Sommet de la Lauzière, 2,576m


MENTIONS: @matej-kodrin


Author Info:
matej-kodrin avatar

Member since May 29, 2006
4 articles

15 Comments
  • 1 0
 I was watching le tour this year and said to my mate the area around the Izoard looks beautiful. Suggested we could take MTB and road bikes (sorry) down for a trip. This was a lovely article and I'm more determined than ever to get there. Great stuff.
  • 5 1
 Another great destination added to the bucket list, thanks!
  • 2 0
 Certainement! For those who are curious this area is just W of Grenoble. Had to look it up as was geographically impaired. Beautiful
  • 2 0
 @leelau: Actually around 100km E of Grenoble!!! The Queyras is also a fantastic freeride ski area in winter, I live just round the corner in Briancon
  • 2 0
 Let me know if you'r interested. I know the place like the back of my hand.
Not west but south of Grenoble. Less rain! @leelau:
  • 1 0
 @TitoTomasi: and @Kenx thanks for the correction. Massive slip of the keyboard
  • 2 0
 It's Le Queyras. There can be only one. Haven't been back there for too long.
  • 1 0
 Le Queyras is a mountain biking paradise, I'll be there for the next 2 weeks :-)
  • 1 0
 Croc montagne ?
  • 1 0
 @BenPea: No, near Arvieux, only me & my bike ;-)
  • 1 0
 @Arev: Best option, man. Give the place a good thrashing.
  • 1 0
 Like said @BenPea, it's Le Queyras and not "Les". it is not plural. just saiyin'
  • 1 0
 Nuthin but fotos where's the goddam video?
  • 1 1
 Загремельство чистой воды Smile







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