My Intense Recluse is equipped with a first-edition e*thirteen TRS+ cassette, which I was enjoying thoroughly until the bike began to creak under power. At first, I believed that the evil noise was emanating from the BB92 bottom bracket, and I began to feel bad about the ribbing I often give to the Brits, who have so passionately led the charge against press-fit bearings. The creaking, however, was silent while I was in the larger half of the cassette cogs so, the press-fit bottom bracket was off the hook. The culprit was the TRS+ cassette. A few calls to other users and a followup check on the internet revealed that I was not the only rider who had this issue.
The Problem
A conversation with the boys at e*thirteen revealed that some first edition TRS+ cassettes were noisy, but not very many of them. Initially, a recommendation was sent out to grease the interface between the hub's outer freehub bearing and sleeve (the source of almost all the creaking) and also, the four locking tabs that hold the two-piece cassette together. For most users, that was enough to arrest the creaking, but the noise occasionally would resurface - especially, I am told, with some DT Swiss hub combinations.
The Fix
E*thirteen made a mid-production improvement and added a Teflon insert to the smaller-side of the cassette body that solves the problem forever. For early TRS+ owners, they also produced a simple retro-fit kit that consists of a Teflon and a steel washer. The retrofit will work with any and all TRS+ cassettes and e*thirteen says that, while a relatively small number of first-production cassettes may exist in the retail market, the overwhelming majority of TRS+ or TRS Race cassettes are new production with the upgraded bodies. E*thirteen's customer service is among the best. They have the kits in stock and encourage owners who have questions or issues to contact them directly.
If you are an owner of a first-production TRS+ cassette, then we will show how to install the retrofit washers. With the exception of the special spline tool that e*thirteen includes with all its aftermarket cassettes and bottom brackets, all you'll need to install the kit is a Shimano bottom bracket wrench, a chain whip (or two), and some grease. Let's get at it.
That's all there is to it. My TRS+ cassette has been running silent ever since. Remember that you added a shim to the cassette, which may require you to tune the rear derailleur. I only needed to release the shift cable one click at the barrel adjuster to get it right.
MENTIONS: @ethirteen-components,
@intensecyclesusa
Another DIWhy thing customers will inevitably mess up.
Then what? lol
The weight of Shimano XT compares well to other lower end SRAM offerings, costs 64 bucks, and doesn't require you to buy new hubs and pay out for labor to lace them to your old rims.
I've had over 2.5 years from an 11sp x01 cassette and probably about 6-7 chains without issue.
STEP 1. Throw it out.
Lesson: You dont need that kind of negativity in your life.
Excellent customer service is great and all, but I'd rather not have my bike break at ALL than have quick replacements and good customer service.
Won't ever pick up any of their stuff again. Seems under-engineered and under-tested.
Is the kit free?
I sold most of the stuff and replaced with Hope and Shimano job done!
Would you buy the pro race, or refrain from it cuz of the casette?
Is it possible to replace the E 13 with the new eagle?
What is needed to do that, besides of a heap of cash?
On both of my SRAM 10-42 cassettes, there is a bit of play between the integrated compression finger lockring and the OD of the freehub. No matter how much torque I apply. The cassette actually wobbles very slightly due to this and makes a bit of noise. I guess it could also be stated as play within the cassette - between the integrate lockring and the cassette body. I see no damage to the freehub as a result.
The width between the plates of SRAM chains is wider than the teeth on the cassette, this allows the chain to slide across the teeth causing noise and a strange feeling at the cranks. Happens to me with the chain in the middle of the cassette and at nearly all loads - light to moderately heavy.
Any help?
"On both of my SRAM 10-42 cassettes, there is a bit of play between the integrated compression finger lockring and the OD of the freehub. No matter how much torque I apply. The cassette actually wobbles very slightly due to this and makes a bit of noise. I guess it could also be stated as play within the cassette - between the integrate lockring and the cassette body. I see no damage to the freehub as a result."
The 1st XX1 cassette I had did this. There was a significant amount of play with that captured bit on the cassette. It made a loud rubbing noise with high torque pedaling. Warranteed.
Presumably the ribbing can restart, with abandon!
This has not been MY experience.
Every time I try to change a chain or chain ring separately, I get skipping.
I have tried, several times over the last 15 years and always the end is the same.... a skipping drive train.
For the last several years I have replace the cassette the chain rings and chain all at once. This is the only guaranty it won't skip. /////........ I run the same components till they start to skip. These days I'm running a sram 9 speed triple. I get around 200 days of riding out of a drive train change. Which for me is usual year.
Steel last much longer than aluminum.
SunRace cassettes do suffer from burs when they are new. The shifting is not perfect when fresh. A few shifts later the cassettes work perfectly. They last just as long as any Shimano or Sram cluster.
Im curious about the wide range SunRace cassettes. They fit on my XT freewheel and cost about 100$
www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/sunrace-mx8-11-speed-cassette-11-46-535478