Pinkbike Poll: How Long Do Bike Parts Last?
This topic of longevity was broached in a recent Pinkbike podcast. Flat pedals shoes were the item in question, but that discussion inevitably led to a debate about how long bike parts, in general, should last. There's no getting around the fact that parts and frames can break - smash anything into a pointy rock hard enough and you're going to incur some damage. So, we'd thought we'd ask you - "how long do parts last, really?". It will be interesting to see if expectations meet reality. Are you able to get a whole season out of a set of tires? Or do you find yourself scrounging up funds for another rear tire after one long weekend at the bike park?
The answers to this week's poll are in duration of time simply because not many people record the distance covered. I would suggest 'regular riding' is about three times per week. There are, of course, some people who ride more than this and others who perhaps don't. In a perfect world they'll cancel one another out, to a degree, and this way should give us an average. We're also assuming you ride your bikes and components for their intended purpose and aren't doing shuttle runs with your XC hardtail.
If you fitted a new drivetrain to your bike, how long could you ride before you had to consider replacing the chain?
You've just fitted brand-spanking-new brakes, rotors and pads to your bike. How long until you use all of the braking material?
Bikes weighing 21.5KG will happily last. Of course, if we wanted to ride parts with a 0% failure rate we probably wouldn't enjoy such lightweight componentry.
Dropper posts are directly in the firing line of mud, grit and grime.
When wheels break they can do so in spectacular fashion but not all failures are such blockbuster events. Dings, cracks, flat spots and spokes pulling through the eyelet can also damage a wheel beyond use. I have seen enough rim failures to feel as though they are a consumable, but this isn't a view often shared outside of racing.
Many brands offer a huge range of compounds and tread patterns to offer tires to suit any purpose.
Our expectations don't always coincide with reality.
Increasingly, people's concerns aren't solely about bang for their buck.
Author Info:
Must Read This Week
Sign Up for the Pinkbike Newsletter - All the Biggest, Most Interesting Stories in your Inbox
PB Newsletter Signup
Lower leg services are quick and easy, but dampers are a mixed bag of needing special tools, not being able to find service kits and having to try and hunt out instructions on random German forums.
Now my X2, that’s a different story, PITA!
But yes, 100 percent agreed!
Why not just make it available?!
No-one wants to ditch a fork/damper for a seal costing pennies, and not everyone has a warranty (e.g. on 2nd hand bits)
To quote the guy I talked to yesterday, “you can buy any 7.5wt fork oil, doesn’t have to be the Gucci stuff, just don’t buy the cheap Maxima or Rockshox stuff” as they swell the seals.
Good info tho. Maybe next time.
I know, I’m lame.
I’ve even emailed them asking if I could get them raw, before they ano green them and they said they get them from their supplier that way so they can’t accommodate, I was bummed... but life goes on.
Not comparing performance or anything here, just the service alone, and it's not that it is hard on a Fox, it's just a lot easier and straightforward on RS.
Well ok let's maybe exclude the Reverb. The Reverb is piece of garbage, with a stupid design premise. I'll gladly take most cheap droppers over the Reverb.
I used to kill multiple hubs a year until I got a Hope. Love that hub.
I agree that this probably classified es user error, however this leads to majority of frame issues
The majority of people are NOT breaking things, and don't really need all these changes in standards. It's just a way for brands to offer something new (and exciting?) and convince you to upgrade so that they keep making money.
Any commuter bike tire will last huge amount of miles, high performance grippy dh tire 5 days
How there are people on this poll that have never had to service a dropper or get a year out of a tire I do not know!
So if you're keeping your bike 2+ years, price-wise it's more or less a wash. For me the choice is between X01, GX, SLX and Deore cassettes and how much weight matters to you.
It's actually worth the premium, unlike some other expensive droppers that are essentially the same as the cheaper ones but have a "better" sticker.
Replacing 2x chainrings has been kind of a crapshoot in the past, I think stuff like 1x, direct mount and more 3rd party manufacturers actually improved things.
Chains are not that bad either IMO. You can get Deore, SLX, or GX level 12spd chains between €20-30. I don't think that changed much, for example when 10spd was the latest and greatest I don't think we paid less for chains.
Nowadays we also have even lower end drivetrains which work wonderfully, like 10/11spd Deore, Microshift, Box stuff etc. Parts for these drivetrains will be even cheaper. But of course these drivetrains usually don't come on complete bikes, or in the case of 10/11spd Deore mostly just lower end bikes.
When it comes to drivetrains personally i'm very happy with the price to performance ratio nowadays.
I then got a cassette on ebay with almost no signs of use (Seller said it was only 150km old) for 50 bucks. I guess that is really good
Also, hubs have been my most annoying wear item that shouldn't be a wear item. Amazing how many nice bikes come with disposable hubs. I just end up switching them to DT 350s after they break and I keep the warrantied one for a spare.
So my advice (if you want to do your own serving) is before buy a shock download the tech manual and see how easy or difficult the services are.
Everything is a balance of performance, longevity, price, and environmental concern. I've thought about running shittier (harder durometer) tires, so that I don't throw away so much rubber. But at what point does that become a safety concern?
Great pads too, if you like organics.
one other bike has only a front brake... so the longevity of the back tire is amazing.
my bike thats ridable is a hardtail single speed which, you guessed it, has a ridiculous service period on the suspension.
#NZsinglespeedchamps #temiro2021 @NZSSC_cloak
I ride that much in a couple weeks, f*ck that!
I don’t service my suspension that often, i prefer to ride my bike, seriously, few of us need that level of performance a CS snd frw would notice the difference.
100 hr service interval seems reasonable., 200 hrs would be better.
I realize that the price categories are different, but we have to try to remember that when you expose materials to forces they weren't designed to take, they fail. My golf variant isn't going to like jumps or reverse donuts. I can drive it hard, but eventually something has to give.
If we want all the things to be indestructible,been need to let go of our weight concerns.
Fox 34 - £60 for two tools to remove the lowers to do an oil change. Currently waiting for some £5 bits from Aliexpress to make my own.
X Fusion - how about you sell some spares? I had to get a seal kit for a rear shock from Israel
In general, many competent shop mechanics will use a maxim for drivetrain wear order for consumers:
1. Chain
2. Cassette
3. Chainring
--
4. Derailleur (if it ever goes; really should only need cables and clutch servicing plus new pulley wheels)
As a wheelbuilder, I like to add further that hubs should be cleaned out and re-greased and spokes checked for tension once a season (well built wheels should not need more than that, barring any rim-damage events).
It heavily depend on component level, I would not expect a lot from deore / NX however XRT covered under warranty of 3 years and typically harder to brake;
also under-biking and riding whistler 30 days per year probably not the best idea, I prefer to overbike just in case - in long run less headache in regards of durability
Front and rear tires are maxxis minion exo+ 3c DHF and need replacement every 3-4 months b/c rear wear is extensive. I just tried a 2c rear to see if it will hold up any better.
Brakes pads are original saint pads.
Ibis carbon rims have been true and unbroken.
Ibis rear logo hub replaced at 18 months because of failure.
Bikeyoke dropper with loss of optimal function at 18 months but replaced today for warranty send off.
Ergon seat is original.
Ergon g2 grips are original.
Race face bar replaced for ergonomic reasons.
Stem original.
GX group set replaced with shimano XT at 8 months just because.
Shifting cable for xt replaced 3x since then for sticky/slow/poor shifting. Optislick shimano shift cable installed today to see if this helps what seems to be a design flaw.
Chain & cassette are original to xt swap.
Chainring new due to trail damage.
Ripmo frame discovered to have defect at main frame lower linkage mount today and will be replaced under warranty.
Fox 36 CSU replaced at 12 months for deep scratches on the stanchions. Not under warranty.
Fox x2 only had oil changed at 12 months because it was in pristine condition.
I'm most surprised by the tire wear. I thought my frame issue was premature but the quick approval for replacement indicates it's a known issue. The suspension has worked well. I think the wear is reasonable given the amount of use the bike gets. It seems to endure much more abuse and for longer periods than some of my peers' bikes.
Also, who is leaving their chains on for two years?! I hope thats due to the bike spending a lot of time hanging in the garage
Overa bike parts are way better than they were 15-20 years ago when shit broke all the time.
There's a huge difference between a component that lasts 3 months being used 5 hours a day 7/w and one that is used once a week.
i replace my rear tire far too late.
i replace my brake pads when it hits the metal (ie far too late)
droppers tend to "need service" too quickly
i choose parts based on how many weird tools are needed and how complex servicing is, cuz sending them back for service is crazy shit (between delay and price)
No one thinks replacing the transmission or clutch in their vehicle every 1 to 2 years is acceptable but they lap that shit up form the bicycle industry like its hagen das ice cream.
Why do we have shit drivetrains with constant cross loading and full exposure to the elements and dirt when no other vehicle on earth does? Because fools have been duped into believing a better just as light and jus as efficient internal system is not possible or cost effective.
LISTEN UP! Its not cost effective for Sram or Shimano who like making you buy a new drivetrain one or two times per year. You folks who think your drivetrain lasts 2 years and are blown away when you get on a demo bike or your buddy's new bike are feeling what your own long dead drivetrain should feel like.
Stop being a hapless sheep dipping into your pocket for what ever the latets n+1 cog shit the S guys shove down your throat next to pad their bottom line. Demand better. If your 20k car transmission lasts 20 years your 5k bike should have a transmission that lasts 5 year.
They already exist as internal hubs. Why dont you have one for your bike or a gear box based on it? Not weight, not lack of efficiency or strength. That can all be done. Shimano knows their Alfine and Nexas hubs last decade without even the recommended oil changes. If they gave us that their bottom line would be f*cked instead of yours.
Yes - Shimano
No - SRAM
Shimano 12sp has also been the least reliable thing ever for me. And I've run Sram NX...
2 creaking fork in 2 year
I am only 180 lbs
Perhaps some of the bigger brands could help create these programs?
Freewheel ? ????
Lucky Guys...
Oh dude, that old XO stuff was great. My old Zee 10sp setup was awesome too. I can't seem to make a 12sp derailleur last even half a season though.
True that! Snapped two somewhat 12 Shimano derailleurs this past year myself from barely even touching a rock. Short caged Zee going on years on other bike. Love the extra range of 12 for steep, big climb rides, but too fragile for me and really don’t find it shifts or works any better than 10 speed. Would fully convert back, but knees and back can’t handle the lesser gearing