First Look: Öhlins RXF34 m.2 Downcountry Fork

Mar 9, 2022
by Seb Stott  
photo


It's not every day that a new fork enters the market, but this is one of those occasions. If you're thinking, hasn't Öhlins been making the RXF34 since 2016? Yes, they have. But while the m.2 shares the same stanchion diameter with its predecessor, it's an entirely new fork inside and out.

It's aimed squarely at the downcountry end of the spectrum. While the original RXF34 was available with up to 160 mm travel and weighed 2,270 grams (almost as much as a RockShox Zeb), the mark 2 weighs 1,725 grams and is available with 120 or 130mm of travel. Those numbers put it in competition with the 2022 Fox 34.
Öhlins RXF 34 M.2 Details
• Intended use: Downcountry / Trail
• Travel: 120 or 130mm
• 29" and 44 mm offset only
• Air spring with volume spacers
• Single-tube damper with Low-speed compression, High-speed compression/climb mode and rebound adjust.
• 160mm brake mount, max 203mm
• Weight: 1,725 g as tested, 1,698 g claimed
• MSRP: $1,180 USD / €1,294 / £1,185 (Inc. VAT, apart from USD)
Öhlins.com

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Design Details

Öhlins primary design goal for the m.2 was to save weight. While my fork packed full of volume spacers and a long steerer tube weighed 1,725 grams, Öhlins say in the lightest configuration it will sneak under 1,700 grams, which no doubt prompted a few high-fives and mopped brows at Öhlins HQ. For those who are keeping score, a 2022 Fox 34 set up the same way with the same steerer length as mine weighs 1,791g - 66g more. Of course, that's an inconsequential difference except for the never-ending game of Top Trumps between brands.

The nearly 600g difference between this and the original RXF34, however, gives a clear indication of how different they are. Öhlins has totally redesigned the spring, damper and chassis to better fit the modern lightweight downcountry bike.

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Damper

Öhlins has gone away from their trademark twin-tube damper design to a more conventional single-tube damper, which they call the OTX18. Öhlins say their "Downcountry damper" is 27% lighter; they couldn't tell me exactly how much that is in grams, but given a typical damper weighs perhaps 200g, we're talking in the region of 50g or so.

Externally, the damper mirrors other Öhlins products. There are low-speed rebound and low-speed compression adjusters (15 clicks each), plus a dial that offers two settings for the high-speed compression, plus a third setting that closes off the low- and high-speed compression valving for a firm climbing mode. The damping is designed to be "highly-sensitive.. for faster and more fluid trail riding", meaning a lighter damping tune for maintaining comfort and momentum over fast terrain rather than absorbing big impacts.

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The volume spacers clip together a lot like Fox's.

Air spring

It's a similar story on the spring side. Other Öhlins air springs use a three-chamber design, meaning a separate "ramp up" chamber is used to control progressiveness via a second valve on the bottom of the fork. But in the RXF34 m.2, there's just one valve to fill the self-equalising spring, and progression is controlled with plastic volume spacers like you'd find in a Fox or RockShox fork. Similarly, Öhlins usually use a self-contained cartridge air spring that sits inside and separate from the stanchion, but in the m.2 the piston seals directly against the stanchion wall, helping to save a little more weight.

The air spring isn't travel-adjustable, but there are two options giving 120mm or 130mm of travel. Öhlins say shorter travel options might become available in future, but 130mm is the limit for the chassis.

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The floating axle is initially loose-fitting in the right leg, and clamps the hub against the left leg. Then the pinch bolt secures the axle to the right leg, allowing the legs to stay parallel irrespective of the exact hub width.
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The new arch is a lot more rounded. Remind you of anything?

Chassis

Öhlins say they've fine-tuned the flex pattern to shave weight wherever they can without sacrificing too much stiffness. Unlike many lightweight forks, the lower legs extend all the way to the axle, rather than stopping short and the dropout protruding below the tube. Öhlins say this improves stiffness and allows for more internal air volume within the leg, helping to prevent unwanted end-stroke ramp-up.

They still use the two-bolt floating axle system common to all Öhlins forks. This allows both legs to self-align even if the hub-width is slightly out of spec. In theory, this means perfectly parallel legs no matter what, which could cut friction. There's no quick-release option, but both bolts use a 5 mm Allen key.

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I currently have the RXF34 and a TTX1 air rear shock mounted onto a YT Izzo. Unfortunately, I've not been able to log much time on it yet, but I have some proper testing planned and a full review is in the works.




Author Info:
seb-stott avatar

Member since Dec 29, 2014
306 articles

164 Comments
  • 236 14
 160 brake mount on a 34 or larger fork needs to die.
  • 20 261
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 3:06) (Below Threshold)
 Why because you say it needs to? 160mm is great. I still rock one on the rear of my Flatline and it has no problem stopping me on a 43lb bike so I don't see validity in your statement.
  • 71 12
 @mhoshal: 160 is fine in the rear. No pun intended..
  • 113 2
 @mhoshal: he specifically said “on a fork” so your comment about having one mounted on the rear and it being fine really doesn’t apply. I agree with him about 180 being more appropriate on the fork
  • 13 8
 Probably depends on the riding style and the brakes being used. I wouldn't run smaller than 180mm in the front but for instance Joe Barnes happily runs 180mm in the front and he obviously rides much more aggressive than I do. His reasoning being that he likes his brakes to get hot so that water on the brakes evaporates more quickly so he gets more consistent braking performance. With such reasoning, I can imagine someone riding less aggressively than he does but rides under similar wet conditions may actually appreciate a 160mm front brake rotor. At least the option is there. Whoever wants a larger front rotor can still use that with the appropriate adaptors.

As for larger or not in the rear, I recall there was a discussion in the Santa Cruz DH team whether the rear brake shouldn't be larger than the front. Again it really depends on the riding style. The way I see it, a larger brake rotor both increases heat capacity and cooling as well as that it increases brake force. A different brake (or front caliper) could also increase brake force but not necessarily increase cooling. Those who want/need to drag the brakes typically/primarily do so with the rear brake, but they don't need more brake force there. So a lighter brake but with a bigger rotor would make more sense for them. But if you don't drag the brakes much, a bigger rear brake rotor may not be needed.

So basically, provided you can get brakes that are strong enough, the choice of brake rotor is primarily based on whether you want to run that brake hotter or cooler.
  • 3 0
 Uninformed question coming at you: Does one have to get an entirely new brake mount to accommodate/fit a larger sized rotor?
  • 3 22
flag vinay FL (Mar 9, 2022 at 6:25) (Below Threshold)
 @sonuvagun: Wasn't that answered already (last sentence, first paragraph, my post above yours)?
  • 17 0
 @sonuvagun: You just need to add/ change the adaptor - they're cheap and easy.
  • 3 164
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 7:12) (Below Threshold)
 You can all downvote me all you want facts are facts opinions mean shit.
  • 6 166
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 7:16) (Below Threshold)
 F*cking losers!!!
  • 8 0
 @mhoshal: Reading what @NERyder wrote could be helpful.
  • 2 156
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 7:20) (Below Threshold)
 @NERyder: it doesn't matter if he said fork or not. I run 160/140 on my stumpjumper. You guys just like to bitch and whine about everything on this site. A bunch of self entitled yuppies.
  • 5 148
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 7:26) (Below Threshold)
 Keep downvoting me you idiots you can't debate the fact that the guys opinion is just that an opinion. The fact is a 160 rotor is fine on a fork. Not everyone ride in the mountains morons.
  • 25 1
 @mhoshal: well your discs are too small then. You’re going to be sorry when you run over a cat or something !
  • 5 127
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 7:29) (Below Threshold)
 @crazy9: you're opinion means absolutely shit to me.
  • 32 3
 @mhoshal: comment of the day. Like your style.
  • 5 138
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 7:30) (Below Threshold)
 @crazy9: easy to run your gums over the internet come ride with me and talk that shit see how fast you're laying on your back you f*cken skid
  • 37 3
 @mhoshal: shit I just spat out my coffee. Man that was funny.
  • 20 1
 @mhoshal: If you run 160/140 on your Stumpjumper then I'd say that would have been a more fitting direct response to the original post. If that works for you, fine. I don't care about losing as there was no contest.
  • 61 0
 @mhoshal: for an "adult" from flat AF Onterrible, you talk like a 14yo from Surrey. You need to chill Winston. Also 160mm rotors are for Cyclocross bikes.
  • 5 1
 @sonuvagun: Post Mount 160mm - just use 160mm to 180 or bigger adaptor as used on any other fork
  • 26 0
 @mhoshal: you know there are people that who can help you with your issues, right?
  • 1 116
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 9:13) (Below Threshold)
 @crazy9: what's funny is I'd have you on your back quicker then your mom when she's offered 20 bucks you f*cking deadbeat. Trust me I can find out where you live pretty quick and I'd be more then happy to pay you a visit so keep running your mouth because karma is a bitch kid.
  • 2 91
flag mhoshal (Mar 9, 2022 at 9:16) (Below Threshold)
 Burnaby eh good to know. I'm actually gonna be out on in Nanaimo in a week so I'll be sure to look you up see how your gums run then.
  • 35 0
 @mhoshal: invested your life savings in Russian roubles?
  • 8 0
 @mhoshal: What size rotor are you rocking here www.pinkbike.com/photo/6723991 ?
  • 30 0
 @mhoshal: I think someone needs a time out.
  • 23 0
 @mhoshal: I thought I was having a bad day but damn I got nothin' on you. Take a few deep breaths man, its gonna be okay.
  • 3 23
flag DutchmanPhotos FL (Mar 9, 2022 at 13:33) (Below Threshold)
 @mhoshal’s wife must be on her monthly period or something…
  • 7 2
 @DutchmanPhotos: imagine being on your period and your husband has a worse mental breakdown than you...
  • 27 0
 @mhoshal: For being such a tough f*cker you sure do wear a lot of padding.
  • 1 0
 It's a pity I've had to travel down country in that faint glimmer of finding an upcountry fork.
  • 39 0
 @mhoshal: ah this guy. I think I saved one of his messages in my inbox a few years ago. Said something like "eat shit you f*cking f*ck, I'm going to beat your ass" because I disagreed with him about a chainring size or color or something. My ass was never beat, fyi.
  • 1 0
 @RIOTT: cheers
  • 21 0
 @mhoshal: Funny how you’re allowed to have an opinion on rotor size but nobody is allowed to have an opinion on your opinion.
  • 9 0
 @mhoshal: says the guy flapping his gums on the internet. STFU already.
  • 19 0
 Love how this @mhoshal fellow is getting all triggered with his low powered brakes like he just discovered the internet or something
  • 9 0
 @mhoshal: dawg it’s bicycles calm down
  • 5 0
 @mhoshal: Than - conjunction - used to introduce the second element in a comparison.
Then - adverb - at the time in question.

“I think 160 is better than 180. Then I went shopping and bought a 180 and realised how wrong I was.”

200 is going to blow your little socks off.

Also, be calm. Why so angry about something so insignificant?
  • 18 0
 @mhoshal is pissed because he only just found out he's been running a 160 rotor on his stumpy and has to stop halfway down the run to let his brakes cool off when he could have just bought an adaptor. Classic case of rotor rage
  • 7 0
 @mhoshal: aren't spec stumpys 160mm post mount on the rear? Can't remember the last time I saw a 140mm rotor other than road bikes. My 2015 stumpy was 160mm pm.
  • 3 0
 @mhoshal: new WAKI??
  • 12 1
 @SeanDRC: you owe WAKI an apology.
  • 3 0
 @SeanDRC: New DoublecrownAddict
  • 1 0
 Post +20 (like 180 adapted to 200) you’re installing the caliper bolts into magnesium lowers and re-torqueing every caliper adjustment for the life of the bike. Post +40 you install the adaptor once and your caliper bolts are now threaded into a $10 part. Something to consider if you’re not the kind of master mechanic we have so many of gracing the comment section
  • 6 1
 @Sniff303: I'm totally fine with people wearing a lot of padding to protect themselves. What I don't understand is how someone with that much padding is so easily hurt...
  • 11 0
 Best pink bike rage thread I have read in years. Cheers masshoshal loving your work.
  • 9 0
 this was a great read and i didn't even have to subscribe to outside for it!
  • 68 3
 So it's about 100g lighter than a Pike but has 30mm less travel and is way more expensive?

If downcountry stays in fashion they'll be fine.
  • 33 0
 You'd have to REALLY want those yellow stickers.
  • 14 2
 If you only want 120-130mm then 100g lighter is nice. It sits between the pike and sid ultimate rather than a direct competitor to either
  • 9 0
 Pikes come in both 120 and 130mm
  • 5 1
 @mr-moose: And they are best in those lengths IME Smile
  • 3 0
 @chakaping: Agreed, I have one of each and they are both excellent at that amount of travel
  • 22 0
 It kinda seems like they removed all the performance elements that separates them from the pack to shed weight. Be curious to see the review when's it's done and what the benefits are over a RS or Fox fork.
  • 15 0
 @fektor-b: I couldn't agree more - I would have thought at least keep the 3 chamber spring! Unless they know their target market is more interested in the stickers than the spring Big Grin
  • 17 0
 Buy a SRSuntour. Works for Olympic gold . Works...got it??!
  • 3 0
 @Brodybro29: brilliant people would pay twice the normal price for that colour !
  • 3 3
 What point are you trying to make? They made this design specifically for 120-130mm of travel, not 150-160. Because the only point I'm seeing is that you're saying a Pike is still heavier.
  • 2 0
 @chakaping: Haha. Yellow is really trending this year. Yellow jackets and yellow stickers. Lol.
  • 3 2
 @chakaping: I have a 130mm Pike on my 2022 Element and it is amazing. At 160mm the Pike is a wet noodle.
  • 5 1
 @agnostic: i was just about to ask what maniac would run pike 29 in 160mm. Up to 130-140mm max makes sense.
  • 5 0
 I bought a 130 pike for my Spur. Way better than the SID. It weighs a bit more but worth it I think.
  • 2 0
 @agnostic: Yeah, I have one at 130mm on my Orange Stage 4 and it feels pretty much the same as a Lyrik at 170mm.
  • 2 0
 @floor-tom: 100g lighter for £1100 is hard to swallow.
  • 33 0
 So we're just using downcountry without the tongue in cheek now!?
  • 8 3
 Be prepared to call it something else two years from now though. When I first read the term, it was being used for XC race bikes being spec'd with grippier tires and a slightly slackened geometry (for instance by using a 5" travel fork). I can't quickly figure out how much rear travel that Izzo bike has (from the YT product page) but it does mention it being a trail bike. So call it whatever you want. Downcountry used to be an XC race bike with a trail fork. Now we're seeing a downcountry specific fork being tested on a trail bike. Now this makes me wonder what we'd now call those 5" travel marathon forks (Marzocchi Marathon) forks from twenty years ago.
  • 4 0
 @vinay: Also, XC race bikes used to be hardtails.... All the definitions are slowly shifting, the type of riding is changing, bikes are changing. From some of your posts I gather that you are based in NL? Look at how the mtb tracks here have evolved over the past ten years. Of course there is a lot of marketing bs too, but I am happy with the category in itself because it encompasses the riding I like.
  • 3 1
 @ak-77: Yeah, I live in The Netherlands. I think I'm just as confused by all the nomenclature as everyone else, just trying to make sense of it. But this one just struck me as very odd. Wouldn't the Izzo as spec'd in the article just be a complete "trail" bike? The YT product page calls it a "trail" bike, the advertisement banner on the PB page calls it a "downcountry trail" fork. It probably works just fine when used as what's considered "trail" these days. Which, from what I understand, is just mountainbiking outside a race setting and without up/down bias.

With all these different categories of full suspension bikes, it is kind of funny to see all "hardtail" being stuffed together even if they're designed for different purposes. You'd probably have to look real closely at the geometry to get an idea and even then it shouldn't limit anyone. There is probably a hardtail for every mountainbike discipline, alongside a full suspension sibling. You can get them for DH, for DJ and XC and for everything in between. And it's been like that for over twenty years, just like we've been seeing full suspension XC bikes for that long.

As for me, I honestly don't know nor care which category my riding falls into. Most is on XC trails and practice parks so I could call it XC. But I always stand up when riding with the saddle low, 26" wheels, 63deg HA, platforms just because it all feels more fun like that. And I rather sprint then chill rather than go steady for over an hour. It is a very different feel from how XC (race) is generally ridden.

Basically, I think it is pointless to have a one-dimensional spectrum of mtb categories. There is so much that pointless to have names for all that. Just know how strong the components are so you can buy based on that. And then some other parameters if they're relevant (geometries, suspension characteristics etc). But I think at this point the categorizations are only making things more complex.
  • 6 3
 Does ohlins call this down country?
If not than wtf is pinkbike doing so?
  • 9 0
 @mikelevy LOOK AT WHAT YOUVE DONE TO THIS POOR SOUL
  • 1 0
 @vinay: In themselves, the categories are a bit useless. But if something becomes a buzzword, manufacturers start making products that work well with this buzzword. Like a lightweight 34x130 fork. So if that buzzword fits your type of riding you will have more material options available. People really like putting things in their separate boxes, there must be some term for it in psychology. That's why there are all these words.
  • 1 0
 @vinay: also, I guess they just had the Izzo available as a test bike that could fit a 130mm fork, and it wasn't specifically selected to test this fork with.
  • 3 0
 @jrocksdh: That's the world on it's head. @mikelevy popularized the term so if anyone gets to call a fork 'downcountry' it's Pinkbike.
  • 16 0
 I’m sorry. I was mostly joking, I swear, and now look what’s happened haha
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: I forgive you. Next question is though, how do we solve all this? Could you maybe introduce a new name? You know, for the 2024 line of products?
  • 4 0
 @vinay: I think the only answer is to make as much fun of down-country as possible?
  • 3 0
 @vinay: I think in a few years we will see 'vanduro' (cargo bikes with serious downhill potential), 'small mountain' (for us dutchies), as well as 'clean jump' bikes. This last one are DJ bikes with unsealed bearings, which should only be ridden in fair weather on pavement or indoor wooden obstacles.
  • 2 0
 @mikelevy: Funcountry?!
  • 34 1
 surprised they haven't introduced downcountry 170mm/190mm rotors!
  • 32 1
 170.99mm if the rotors come from sram
  • 8 0
 What have you done, should not make such jokes because one day they will become reality ...
  • 4 1
 SRAM 170mm rotors exist
  • 4 0
 SRAM/Avid are already ahead of you there as they did 170 mm rotors ten years ago.
  • 1 0
 I've been using a 190mm front rotor (Magura) until I had to move away from IS fork brake mounts (spring 201Cool . I think 190mm was ideal. I still might try it with a Gustav front brake someday. I've got the Gustav front saddle to fit an 8" PM fork with a 210mm rotor. If I put it on a 7"PM fork it may just about work with a 190mm rotor, but it could also be 1.5mm too tight.
  • 28 1
 Dang that Izzo looks good in Öhlins!
  • 20 1
 Ohlins: It's 27% lighter!
PB: 27% lighter than what?
Ohilns: Exactly!
  • 17 0
 Sounds fantastic,but not 1300€ fantastic.
  • 16 2
 the fox 34 step cast is 120mm & a little over 200g lighter... just saying..
  • 5 0
 great fork to, have one on my vitus rapide FS and it eats everything from trails, jumps to a bit of pump track with no noticeable flex
  • 4 0
 But (like the SID) cannot be run at 130mm... this may be the lightest 130mm fork option FWIW
  • 15 1
 When is Camelbak going to make downcountry water bottles? See how dumb that sounds?
  • 11 0
 I can't wait to see a field test of the downcountry pedals
  • 2 1
 Difference is, suspension matching the terrain it is being used on actual matters. So it makes sense to offer a light trail/DC fork...do you actually carry water differently on your rides?
  • 1 0
 @SprSonik: You completely missed the sarcasm of my comment. These made up fad categories are ridiculous. I have carried water in a couple different ways.
  • 1 0
 @hardtail29errba: Need ohlins Mmmm.bop damper to drop.
  • 2 0
 @SprSonik: Actually, yes. And I’m betting that’s true for most. For short rides it’s a bottle on the frame. If I’m taking the hardtail on a rough trail I wear it on my jersey pocket. A hydration pack is great for long hot rides. And if I’m lapping DH I’ll leave the pack or bottle somewhere at the bottom.

So yeah. More than enough for a marketer to work with there.
  • 4 0
 @hardtail29errba Their latest product is a 2L backpack with a leak. The "downback".
  • 8 0
 if the availability is going to be similar to their 38 fork then it should just be called Ninja Fork cause nobody ever seen one
  • 7 0
 Looks like a cross country fork to me. Industry trying to sell more by making up a new, unnecessary category for the trail bike.
  • 14 7
 The seat angle on that YT is mental. The fork looks great if very expensive.
  • 5 1
 What's wrong with the seat angle?
  • 3 5
 @JonnyTheWeasel: The saddle is nearly over the rear axle, that needs steepening up a few degrees
  • 2 1
 @melonhead1145: Isn't that a bit exaggerated? In the second picture (the side view of the complete bike), the axles appear kind of level and the seat clamp (where I'd suppose the rider applies the weight) is just over the end of the "live uncaged" text on the chainstay. That's quite a bit ahead of the rear axle.

That said, I'd love to see a "making of" of that picture. From what I understand, someone holds the bike, releases it and moves out of the frame as the photographer shoots and then catches it before it falls. How often did the bik roll down the hill on the right with someone chasing it? It may have never happened, but it would have made for a VOD level video.
  • 8 2
 @melonhead1145: I never get this infatuation with seat angles needing to be steeper. The seat angle needs to allow a rider to sit on the saddle and be comfortable pedaling by having their feet and knees in the correct position in relation to the cranks and bottom bracket. If that means having a slightly "slacker" seat angle, then so be it.
  • 2 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: Because when climbing steep climbs, you have to move your weight a lot further forward to keep the front wheel grounded, and keep your weight centred. Its harsh on the lower back and hips to keep the weight in the right place. Went from a 73deg seat angle (straight tube from BB), with the saddle all the way forward to an 80deg seat angle with the seat just foward of middle and it's much more comfortable climbing on steep climbs, which most around me are. I think it depends on the type or terrain you ride, a lot of the stuff I ride is steep down, and steep up, if the climbs were mellower I don't think it would be such an issue. And it does also tie in the chainstay length and reach, the longer the reach the steeper the seat tube needs to be to preserve the top tube length, and longer chainstays can afford slacker seat angles as they bring the weight more onto the front wheel.
  • 2 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: The correct position of the body with respect to the bb also depends on the slope and the amount of power applied. When climbing, the bike is tilted but you still want to have your body in a good position with respect to the bottom bracket in an earth-reference system (so with respect to the horizon and the gravity vector). If the bike offers a good seated position with the bike horizontal, people will often find it not ideal when climbing seated. Which is why people are calling for steeper seat post angles. Which indeed may not seem ideal for people who sit on a high saddle when riding level terrain. This is mostly a challenge when riding seated on a high saddle. When standing up or riding a unicycle, it is much more natural to get your body in the right position so it will be less of an issue.

@melonhead1145 : Edit: You were faster Smile .
  • 1 2
 @vinay: @melonhead1145 - I think it's nore a case that the seat angle needs to make sense on the given bike relative to other geo numbers. A 74 degree head angle can be equally as effective as an 80 degree head angle. It just depends on the bike and I'm sure (hope??) that these manufacturers have figured out their numbers. A lot of bike checks on PB are littered with comments around the seat angle needing to be steeper but actually looking at one geo number in isolation doesn't make any sense.
  • 1 0
 This was how far my knowledge about seated pedaling goes. I'll leave the discussion.
  • 1 3
 I think seat angle is directly related to stack height for comfortable fit. If you have an aggressively low stack height the seat angle tends to be slanted down, and vice versa.
  • 1 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: maybe nothing. Seat angle here and elsewhere comprises offset from bottom bracket, and lower and upper tube angles. It is completely dependent on saddle height and so on rider leg length, more specifically upper and lower leg length. A longer-legged rider may have a slacker seat angle. Whether this is appropriate depends on the length of his/her upper leg, the fore/aft adjustability of the seat, and cleat/shoe placement. YT gives an sta of 77d, but the upper tube angle can't be much steeper than the 66d hta. Based on the saddle being slammed forward in the photo above, there is some chance that for this reviewer, the sta is too slack. In his April 2020 Izzo review, 188cm Dan Roberts describes the angle as 'dated.'

@tacklingdummy: I doubt he's saying the saddle rotation is mental
  • 1 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: This might be true on the bulk of medium frames, not so with XL frames with a "standard" rear triangle .
  • 1 0
 @ceecee: Yep - this is exactly what I'm getting at.
  • 1 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: People are calling for steeper ST angles on this site because this is a mountain biking site. So we discuss mountain bikes here with the assumption that they are used for mountain biking in the mountains. Which includes climbing and descending steep terrain. I'm sure people wouldn't mind (or even would prefer) slacker ST angles if this was a road bike site and we were talking about covering long distances on flat terrain.
  • 1 0
 @bananowy: You've completely missed my point, but thanks.
  • 1 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: No worries. I don't think I missed your point. I'm just saying that the whole ergonomics consideration from your first comment is super important for long hours spent pedalling in one position on flat ground and moderate inclines/declines, hence roadies and dirt roadies actually pay experts to get that just right. However, as mountain bikers we simply do not do what roadies do. We do not ride on flat ground. We either ride steep up or steep down. For descending STA is not a factor because we stand up. For climbing steep gradients, especially on loose surfaces, a steep STA helps us stay centered above the BB and maintain traction of both wheels. Flat terrain is not a thing for us, which is why our STA can be optimised specifically for steep climbs.
  • 1 0
 @bananowy: it couldn't be because your spine length hasn't changed and you'd like to have a longer wheelbase without having a very slack hta, regardless of slope, and because leg lengths hadn't been taken into account in prior sizing schemes? You appear to be attributing much to terrain and little to the human form
  • 1 0
 @bananowy: So you'd ride a 90 degree seat angle?
  • 1 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: No, I think 90 is taking it too far. I'd say 78-80 degrees is about right, then you can slide the saddle on the rails to tune the fit
  • 1 0
 @JonnyTheWeasel: I don't know, haven't tried it. Unicycle riders somehow manage Wink My next bike has almost 79 degrees STA at raised saddle height and I think that will work well for me on climbs. Of course the bike has all the other geo numbers I want, otherwise I wouldn't have ordered it despite good STA. Descending always takes priority.

@ceecee Yeah, that too for sure. But if I only wanted long wheelbase for descending and didn't care about climbing at all, I'd achieve it exactly the way you described: with a slack HTA and long CS. I.e. the way DH bikes are doing it. It's not like current mtb HTAs are anywhere near "too slack" for mountain biking, so there's room to play there. You're 100% right about leg length being ignored in the past and it seems like the Izzo in the article makes that exact mistake. Tall/long legged riders will sit above the rear axle on it.
  • 5 0
 This looks quite good! My RFX36 m2 is primo. Now if some frames like the Spur or Element could only be available...
  • 5 0
 Meh, happier with my original RFX34 that actually has performance benefits besides weight...
  • 1 0
 Definitely looks like a lot of engineering/performance sacrifices to satisfy weight loss when compared to an RXF 36 M.2
  • 5 4
 Downcountry
Put simply, a downcountry bike is a cross-country bike that's been modified to perform better in more trail situations, blurring the lines between a pure-bred cross-country racer and a trail mountain bike.

1700g for a 120mm fork


Manitou Minute 2 130 mm 2003 1 1/8" 1633 g

Looks like we have come such a long way in nearly 20 years!

MAGURA Laurin 130 FCR 2008 1 1/8" 1775 g
  • 3 2
 Newer forks are much stiffer, and stronger and more reliable, hence the extra weight.
  • 6 0
 @melonhead1145: I've been riding that Laurin FCR pretty much exclusively between 2008 and 2018. Never had issues with reliability. Stiffness was adequate too even without thru-axle (but with the dual brace lowers). However the Laurin is made to fit 26x2.6" tires whereas this rxf34 fork has much longer lowers to fit these 29" wheels. So yeah, it is understandable it requires a bit more material (hence weight) to get the strength and stiffness up there. (All other things being equal, deflection increases to the third power with the increase in length.)
  • 2 0
 That photo of the air cap removed with sand all over it and lingering on the crown is a scary sight! Reminds me of the nitwit at the LBS, why i never let a shop work on my suspension. Shame on that dude!
  • 2 0
 Would be sweet if it came in a 140. Lots of people including me upping the front travel on their trail or “down country” bikes.
  • 3 0
 I use to find the word downcountry clever and charming but now I loathe the word.
  • 3 0
 I'm buying this because it will make my bike look super cool sitting on the back of my car in the Ikea parking lot.
  • 3 0
 Down country is a stupid and cringe term... It's literally just a trail fork, call it that
  • 2 0
 Kinda funny how @mikelevy was able to coin the term "downcountry" and now it is used everywhere
  • 1 1
 It's only used on this whak site. I never hear or see it everywhere. They have been trying to push it everywhere but thats not how successful marketing words work. They organically grow with a medium or low effort. This has been pushed by this site for years
  • 1 0
 @makripper: on the grman mtb-news.de site it can be read as well. I guess it slowly catches on
  • 4 2
 Downcountry, is that a term used for a poor rider who thinks they’ve advanced from xc? Come on grow up.
  • 2 0
 @crazy9 It's a term for when you've reached a certain age (and waist measurement) and you're no longer competitive in XC races, can no longer get away with lycra, but still don't descent fast enough to warrant a trail bike.
"You guys go ahead, I'm not going to be able to keep up on this climb. I'm on my downcountry bike"
  • 1 2
 why do the manufacturers keep claiming that the floating axle means the legs are always parallel, irrespective of small changed in hub width? if the hub was somehow 4mm wider than it is supposed to be, and you forced the legs wider to accommodate it, obviously the legs are no longer parallel. this is true no matter how small the deviation is from perfectly parallel. the legs are only parallel at one specific axle width which is determined by the manufacturing of the fork itself (and probably varies between forks a tiny bit too).
  • 1 0
 Floating axles allow for fork width and hub width to be independent of each other, the fork doesn't compress to meet the hub, instead the axle inserts farther through the fork to bottom out on the hub and then the fork clamps to the axle, this allows the fork to remain "parallel".
  • 3 0
 @PtotheK: got it. so it would only force the fork wider if the hub was WAY too big, which is unlikely to happen. thanks for claryfing!
  • 1 2
 *Allegedly*

Ohlins lost my vote of confidence a long time ago with regards to bicycle components. Reasons are listed below (note: Bike shop employee)

1) Had to warranty a bunch of RXF 36's circa 2018. Every damper we pulled out and those that we put back in had "SR Suntour" laser engraved on the side.
2) Mentioned said damper markings in regard to the new forks (hey, they clearly can make dampers, I just need to know if they updated it or not) to ohlins via two channels, never got a reply. Suppose I could call though.
3) Triple Crown on a DH bike came loose despite proper torque checked before the ride (due to loosening issues) and resulted in the crown rupturing under a reasonably mellow impact at speed resulting in the worst crash Ive ever witnessed.
4) Constant warranty issues with all TTX models.

TLBig Grin R, Ohlins is SR Suntour suspension for 4x the price
Outcome: Until they prove me wrong with new products, or price out like SR-suntour, I'll keep them off my bikes (minus the coil, because credit where credit is due. That thing is awesome.
  • 2 0
 That risky Caddon Bank bike photoshoot
  • 3 0
 Öhlins is beautiful 3
  • 6 4
 Should rebrand to Ohshit because that's what I say when I see the price.
  • 1 1
 Was that pic photo-shopped? How is it standing on it's own?
Also, grips seem at an odd angle.
Oh, there is a fork with very little travel.
  • 2 0
 Down country should not be a term
  • 1 0
 I still don't know what it means. I might be doing it. I have no idea.
  • 1 0
 While not talking shit about brake rotor diameter, how is this better than the Fox Grip2 130 that I just bought?
  • 2 1
 I have had a 120mm Pike (w/203 rotors) since 2014 … little late guys.
  • 1 0
 More looks like a all mountain fork
  • 1 0
 Does someone really sit all the way up there?
  • 1 0
 And here I am running a lyrik on a down county bike at 130mm
  • 1 0
 Still waiting for a decent Trenduro fork.
  • 2 0
 dOwNcOuNtRy
  • 1 0
 So its pretty much a Fox 34 with less spec options?
  • 8 7
 needs coil
  • 2 2
 Pinch bolts on forks always end in tears....
  • 1 2
 Öhlins realising it's only the MTB industry and not automotive so yellow stickers sell product?
  • 1 4
 Their brand needs a complete redesign, stickers looks like they're from year 2000.
  • 2 0
 @dmitri6: They're about the only things that you can match Maxxis' tyres to!
  • 1 0
 Downcountry what?
  • 3 3
 For posers
  • 1 1
 Öhlins RX:pensiv







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