First Ride: 2021 Norco Shore - Freeride's Alive
The Shore disappeared from Norco's lineup a decade ago, but it's returned for 2021, back for another round of freeride glory. This new version has 27.5” wheels, an aluminum frame, and 180mm of travel. It's designed specifically for use with a coil-sprung shock, and the high pivot suspension design uses an idler pulley to allow the bike to have a more rearward axle path while minimizing pedal kickback.
Just like the original, Norco say the new Shore is for “rides in rowdy terrain where good times and progression are the goal, and stopwatches or finish lines are not even part of the conversation.” That statement rings true when you skim the Shore's stats – it has a 63-degree head tube angle, 480mm reach for a size large, and a total weight of 38 pounds for the A1 model.
Just like the original, Norco say the new Shore is for “rides in rowdy terrain where good times and progression are the goal, and stopwatches or finish lines are not even part of the conversation.” That statement rings true when you skim the Shore's stats – it has a 63-degree head tube angle, 480mm reach for a size large, and a total weight of 38 pounds for the A1 model.
Norco Shore Details
• Wheelsize: 27.5"
• Aluminum frame
• Travel: 180mm (r) / 180mm (f)
• 63° head angle
• 445mm chainstays (size L)
• Weight: 38 lb / 17.2 kg (size L Shore 1)
• Price range: $3,699 - $5,199 USD
• Available January 2021
• norco.com
• Wheelsize: 27.5"
• Aluminum frame
• Travel: 180mm (r) / 180mm (f)
• 63° head angle
• 445mm chainstays (size L)
• Weight: 38 lb / 17.2 kg (size L Shore 1)
• Price range: $3,699 - $5,199 USD
• Available January 2021
• norco.com
There's also a park version that has 190mm of travel with a 200mm dual crown fork for riders that don't have any plans of pedaling uphill.
Frame Details
There isn't any carbon fiber to be seen on the Shore - the frame is an all-aluminum affair, and all the parts that hang off it were selected with with durability in mind.
There's internal cable routing, with the derailleur and brake lines running through the top tube. Bolts for mounting a tube or tool holder are found on the underside of that same tube, and there's room for a water bottle inside the front triangle. There's also a threaded bottom bracket, ISCG 05 mounts for running a bash guard or chain guide, and clearance for up to a 2.6” tire.
Short seat tube lengths make it possible to run longer travel dropper posts – the size large I've been riding comes with a 200mm TransX +RAD post. If that's too much drop for you, it only takes a few minutes to reduce it, without the use of any tools.
Routing the chain over the idler wheel does mean that more links are required than on a non-idler bike, but Norco says that one standard 126 link chain is long enough for all frame sizes.
Geometry
The Shore was built for the descents, and that's reflected by the slack 63-degree head angle. The size large has a 480mm reach and 445mm chainstays. Chainstay length varies by size, starting at 435mm for the small and increasing in 5mm increments, topping out at 450mm for the extra-large.
The head angle might look like it was lifted from a DH bike, but Norco didn't forget that this was a freeride machine, and which means pedaling uphill is occasionally required. To help with those uphill grinds, they gave it a nice and steep 77.7-degree seat tube angle. The seat tube angle actually gets steeper on the larger sizes, a nice touch that helps keep taller riders from ending up too far over the rear axle while climbing.
Suspension Design
The new Shore uses a Horst Link suspension design, but Norco also went with a high main pivot placement and an idler pulley. Without an idler, the chain growth created by the high pivot position would cause excessive pedal kickback, but with the idler in place the amount of kickback is greatly reduced.
The bike is designed specifically to be used with a coil shock, with a progressive leverage curve. While you could technically fit an air shock, Norco says that the spring and damper won't allow the suspension to react the way it's designed to. Even with a coil shock, the pedaling efficiency is impressive, and there's a generous amount of mid-stroke support to keep the bike from going to deep into its travel when plowing through rough terrain.
Norco Shore A1
Build Kits
The Shore A1 sits at the top of the lineup and retails for $5,199 USD. Build highlights include a 180mm Fox 38 Factory fork, Factory DHX2 coil shock, SRAM GX Eagle 12-speed drivetrain, and SRAM's Code RSC brakes. The wheels are e*thirteen LG1 aluminum rims laced to DT Swiss 350 hubs, and those get a Maxxis Assegai / DHR II MaxxGrip Double Down tire combo. Other nice bits are a Deity aluminum bar and DMR Deathgrip lock-on grips.
Norco Shore A2
Norco Shore A1 Park
The Shore A2 is priced at $3,699 USD, and is spec'd with a 180mm RockShox Zeb R fork, Super Deluxe Ultimate Coil shock, Shimano Deore 12-speed drivetrain and 4-piston MT250 brakes. Deore hubs are laced to e*thirteen LG1 rims, with a Maxxis Assegai / DHR II MaxxGrip Double Down tire combo.
The $3,999 Shore A1 Park receives a 200mm RockShox Boxxer Select RC, and a Super Deluxe Ultimate coil shock with a slightly longer stroke to deliver 190mm of travel. SRAM's Code R brakes help slow things down, and there's a GX1 7-speed drivetrain. Once again, tires are a Maxxis Assegai up front, and a DHR II MaxxGrip in the back, both MaxxGrip / Double Down.
Matt Macduff sending it on the Shore. Dave Smith photo.
Ride Impressions
I've been spending time on the Shore A1 as part of our fall Field Test, so I'm going to hold off on spilling all of the beans for now, but I can go over a few initial impressions.
The Fox DHX2 shock doesn't have a climb switch on it, and that's because there's no need for one. The lack of unwanted suspension movement is impressive, especially considering there's 180mm of travel on tap. The overall weight isn't as impressive, and getting this aluminum beast to the top of a hill does take a decent amount of effort. The climbing position is comfortable, though, so it's best to relax and settle in for the grind.
On the descents, this is one solid, downhill-hungry machine. I'd sort of expected an ultra-plush ride that totally erased even the smallest bump, but that's not exactly the case here. Even with 30% sag the suspension feels very supportive, which comes in handy during bigger drops, or for pumping through rough terrain. It might not have been designed with stopwatches in mind, but the Shore definitely has a need for speed, and feels best on really steep trails where there's room to let it run.
Stay tuned for a more detailed review and comparisons when the Field Test airs later this year.
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Also: what lawyer wrote this for you????
“ Dent resistance of current rims are inline or better than other mfgs rim using similar alloys and of similar weights.”
On another note I’ve also been happy with my e13 rims. No major issue in a hard summer of riding!
That rim crumpled after less than two months. I was on a trip when it happed and bought the only replacement I could find in a pinch - another e13 TRS. Surprise, that one lasted three months. 3 total rim failures in 1.5 riding seasons, as a weekend warrior. Maybe they were all the old extrusions but at this point I wouldnt risk the lost riding time, cost and energy even if e13 replacements were free. Now happily rolling on DTs.
Crank Brothers Synthesis Carbon hoops are really fine hoops. On the pricier side, but really good.
Crank Brothers Synthesis Alloy hoops are also very well done hoops, made from good alloy using nice profiles. We have built quite a few now and have gotten really positive feedback so far.
They have done away with all the proprietary faff in the latest wheels - using just j-bend spokes from Sapim - and have very good engineers standing behind them. CB rims, paired with hubs from I9.
Definitely worth a look.
That's what happened when I got in touch about your 12 speed shifters internals upgrade for SRAM 11 speed shifters lasting for two rides. It did solve the problem though- now I know not to buy any E13 products so the failures on my bike have stopped.
CB have always had really novel products, but in the past they were not all well executed. They have really increased their engineering tallent pool in there. They have some really bright people and they are making solid products.
Not sure how true it is, but someone had told me they sued to have a lot of industrial designers, and now they have actual engineers. On the wheels side, they have two very well respected engineers with history of making very good rims. They are hiring the right people, and in doing so, the products are great.
I can assure you all after running just about every alloy rim and tire combo+ every insert I could find, not one setup has resulted in an invincible setup. Every single one has failed me (dt swiss freeride rims, stans, ibis, wtb).
I think people just expect way to much for how hard they ride -_-
Cheers.
My opinion was a simple tongue in cheek joke. And wasn't reflective of how they perform.
I'm just not a fan of the aesthetics of their design. (Just like a lot of Cannondale products like the lefty).
I guess when you have a design that doesn't fit the typical mold you'll always have people like me on the fence about it's looks ????
Otherwise, looks like a sick rig, digging the purple and pink colorways.
If you get into a mental trap of "I can never do this", you are probably right. Some of us can progress faster than others.
I was stationed with a guy who became a good friend years ago that rode dirt bikes, lost all the toes in a motorcycle wreck after getting hit by a car, rode bulls, and was always banged up. Had a wife and kid too and was nearly ready for his military retirement. He died when the driver of the car he was in fell asleep at the wheel on a boring drive. I decided to live my life more like Ken after that. Take some risks, have some fun, because you might avoid all that and play it safe just to die in some mundane statistical way.
But, I have different priorities than just riding now. I am not saying I am worse rider than when I was 21, because I am definitely much more skilled...but I dont have the spare time, lack of responsibilities, or recklessness that I had back then.
Seriously though. You don't have to explain anything to anyone. As long as your happy on the path you choose is all that matters.
I dont know about your correlation either...just different paths...if you're happy, you're happy.
I’d love to learn where to find coping on a mountain bike trail, it would be fun to take some of the skills I’ve learned in the skatepark to mountain bike trails!
@cuban-b: I wish I was trolling.
It’s is nice of you to say that you think about me! Most people these days only think about themselves! Thank you, you really made my day brighter, I hope you have a beautiful day as well, and I’ll be thinking about how great of a person you are because you’re obviously a good mountain biker!!! Sorry, I meant freerider.
@chriskneeland, the reason I don't think this bike in particular is that jib-friendly is because I've actually ridden it. The chainstays are fairly long at 445mm, and combined with a 480mm reach, a 63-degree head angle and a very rearward axle path you have a bike that's better at plowing down the trail in a straight line rather than hopping and popping around.
Maybe I'm confused about the definition of jibbing (I'll admit I was surprised that you included a Schleybletop as a key trick), but to me jibbing is what the 50to01 crew are doing - lots of 180s, nose bonks, general goofing off in the woods. For that style of riding, something that's easier to maneuver would be my pick - bikes like the Santa Cruz 5010 or Transition Scout come to mind.
The border is closed, and the closest lift served area that's decent is 6+ hours away. Luckily we have amazing shuttle trails that are very well suited for a bike like the Shore, or a DH bike for that matter. There are also gnarly trails that can only be accessed by pedaling, which I don't mind doing at all.
@thegoodflow: Definitely never made it about me. I mean, you're trying to make it about me, but definitely not about me. I'd say it's more about a genre. But definitely not something I'd expect a Joey to understand.
Spoiler alert: mostly greens and blues.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/19301341
www.pinkbike.com/photo/19240884
Why does everyone love mullet all of a sudden?
Are modern geometries not good enough?
I didn't see it here, but for what its worth, the VitalMTB review says:
'We will get it out of the way right now, Norco does not endorse setting up the Shore with a mullet configuration."
www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Norco/Shore-A1,31653#product-reviews/3936
No idea why. Just thought I'd call it out.
I have the Spesh Status, I got it cuz it was the first affordable 29/27.5 mullet long travel non-dh bike. I absolutely love it. Also have a yt decoy mullet, love it too. Pure 29 feels so boring now and 27 feels a little sketchy.
I feel like we've gotten to a point where everyone has some minor variation to an otherwise perfectly good mountain bike that they individually consider to be "the best" 5mm difference in BB here, 20mm in handlebar there, mullet vs the same wheel size, etc.
And yet there was a time when bikes were simpler, and people with skill were shredding better than most people do now with all of these minor adjustments and different standard sizes available.
I think you should ride a mullet bike. It's not just a small change. They're more stable and more playful at the same time.
Mullet wheels also solve the understeer problems with modern geo 29ers. Are you familiar? Basically this is the issue that average riders go charging harder than their tallent on their otherwise excellent modern geo bikes, with poor technique - rearward weight bias in turns - they push the front wheel and lowside into the dirt. Read any thread on a truly modern geo bike and you'll see lots of stories about these types of crashes. We'll guess what, mullet bikes have an oversteer effect that works with the modern geo effect in a synergistic way to make the bikes corner without the dreaded push feeling. Mullets are litterally the answer and response to modern geo issues. Of course you can get your body way over the front, load the front wheel, and manhandle the bike through every corner, but that is a) very fatiguing b) risky cause I just takes one f* up to crash.
It's cool if you don't want to try one, but many many more brands will be releasing mullet bikes.
- freeride namme
- small wheels
- raw color
- idler
- proportional length
- steep seat tube
- water bottle
- whatever any other commenter will insert
Park build looks super fun though.
Great looking bike for the Freeriders
In a perfect world I would take 15mm off the reach and chainstay to reduce the wheelbase and make it a bit more chuckable (large with 465/430 rather than 480/445), but I bet this thing hauls ass.
Norco: we like flip chips and shit like that.
@pheller its supposed to be a freeride bike, and not everyone likes the move in geo, when you break a sweat bunnyhopping up a curb I no longer consider it a fun bike, even if it is faster and more stable.
Greaaaat colors and nice that you can put on a dual crown safely without snapping it in half.
Like 10-15 years ago tho i see these coming and going in a couple of years because of lack of sales, cant compete with one bike quiver trail or enduro bikes.
It is Canadian designed but built in China, Norco has never been known for build and quality of finish its why its so cheap, i dont get the 3 years warranty on all of their best/most capable frame tho as they been making frames for decades, you believe in your design or you dont. (same problem as YT and all the lacking 3 years warranty manufacturers).
Cant talk about the weight because its 180mm/180mm, has a coil AND unlike 99% of bike it comes with the tires you will ride and the right casings as well, no need to buff anything up.
Only negatives here and im nit picking, first, needing to buy 2 chains when the first one dies and use the second one to add links to all of the next chains that will go on it because the HSP design needs more than 126 links. Second warranty is too short, make it 5 which should be industry standard. Lastly, im pretty sure its either robot welded or welded by 3-4 different persons, some welds seem too hot some too cold and uneven. Maybe thats what is driving the short warranty, doesnt inspire confidence if you know how to weld.
Gj Norco
It looks like the pulley is concentric with the main pivot, which means kickback is zero, as is anti-squat (well, maybe a little AS from the wheel pushing the axle forward under acceleration, though at sag that will probably be pretty minimal, and of course no AS from the chain forces).
But you guys have been telling us for years that more anti-squat is the way to get "efficient feeling" suspension. What's changed? I'd love to see the numbers on this bike, because I'm pretty sure anti-squat is going to be pretty damn low.
"The lack of unwanted suspension movement is impressive"
So maybe those "efficient feeling" designs with more AS are actually contributing to unwanted suspension movement if you're not pedaling perfect circles?
www.pinkbike.com/news/commencal-supreme-sx-review.html
By comparison, this looks like a long, bad-ass, plowy, park tank.
You missed the point or miss-read, its not made to plow through stuff thats what enduros/dh bikes are made for and also why they made the Park edition but really its a freeride bike park agile bike.
Im glad they didnt ruin it by going with the hype, no 29er ive ever demo'ed or seen reviewed is funner in the same category as a clone but with 650b.
Some guys said it in the comments..., if they wanted a freeride bike, they should have made big on travel(as it is) but shorter in wb, in order to have the agility on its side. By the looks of it, it seems like a big plow tank on shorter wheels. I'd like mine in that Miami Vice color combo!
I'm like samarius, yes the TR would suit half my riding better (that being said, the AM is really efficient), but I wanted a bike that would do the World Cup DH tracks too (alpine Victoria has some some great double blacks as well as super fast flow tracks). The AM is a lot more playful than I was expecting and can also be used as a trail bike as long as the trails arent too lame.. but for that I use a 30yr old rigid mtb).
All that being said, my 10yr old jekyll has made it down those DH tracks, its just a lot slower (10-15 seconds off the pace on a 3 minute track than when I was on my V10c 1.4).
Its big but still poppy and playful.
I've sold them all at the beginning of this year and I've made myself a (very)burly NP Reactor which I have ride it everywhere(from 60 miles xc rides in the hills, to black diamonds in the park, to overmountains on footh/natural trails), expecting the type of bike this Shore seems to be - big travel, rearward axle-path, supportive, plowy, long and slack. I'll wait some more as there are some bikes that still need to be launched...like the new Jekyll, NP Giga, the new Nomad, who knows, maybe a new Sanction with the hybrid HSP a-la Fury. I'll test whatever I'll get my hands on and make a decision. What I know is that I want that supportive rearward axle path, pedally feeling bike that I didn't find in Horst bikes, no matter how many bikes I've tested. For a better comparison, HSP with rearward axp is a porsche gt3, while even the besrmt horst bikes are just golf Rs; both, very fast at covering ground but I want the one with the many nunances and facets, not the one that simply does the job.
As for specifically HSP with idler, in the gondola, last sunday, I was with a kid half my age who's bike was a supreme 29er. I have asked him about the way the bike rides abmnd he told me that there isn't a course in our country that can really put that bike through the test; even on our legendary one, it makes short work from him. Although a kid, I tend to belive him as he is riding all over the country with his colleagues and his mentor, who is the current national DH champion elite for the age group 30-39(on a 180-ed Megatower). He also said that only in Austria, on really advanced double-black diamonds, the bike started to feel like it had to work.
Bottom line is, I really want back a high-pivot system bike and it is glad to see that there are others who feel the same...even though, they've got linkage-driven single pivot bikes.
But what really surprised me was how nimble but composed the bike felt in all conditions (whether it was steep or flat)... and i was getting PB's on the climbs too (the main bike I ride there is a rigid mtb but also take the the jekyll there from time to time too, both considerably lighter than the AM). The capability and position for climbing is incredible, you can clear sections that you have never managed previously (im gobsmacked tbh).
US bike companies like Santa Cruz, Intense, Giant, Kona, and Yeti list both metric and imperial dimensions on their websites. I guess companies having both metric and imperial is "Peak Merica".