DVO released their Topaz T3 Air shock last spring. You can think of it as the rear-end counterpart of their Diamond fork model—essentially a lightweight, heavy-hitting bit of suspension for all-mountain and enduro bikes with its healthy-sized air can, external reservoir and a bevy of tuning options.
But is the Topaz a viable alternative to other popular shocks in this niche? Models such as the Monarch Plus RC3 or Fox DPX2? To find out, I bolted this thing onto an Ibis Mojo HD3 and rode it for a season.
DVO Topaz T3 Air Details• 3-position, compression-damping adjuster
• Adjustable rebound damping
• Tunable air volume/bladder-pressure adjust
• Five different eye-to-eye/stroke options
• Specialized Enduro and Stumpjumper-compatible versions available
• Weight: 390 grams (200x57 size)
• MSRP: $500 USD
•
www.dvosuspension.com On TrailThe Topaz is a bit of a tuner’s shock. There are the typical adjustments—a three-position compression adjust lever that lets you toggle through what amounts to be open/trail/climb settings on the fly as well as an easily-accessed rebound damping knob with 9 clicks of adjustment.
You can also mess with the shape of the shock’s spring curve by adding or subtracting volume spacers to either/both the positive and negative air chambers. In other words, if you correctly dialed in the sag and you still feel like the shock is blowing through its travel, you can add a spacer or more to the positive chamber. If you feel, on the other hand, that the shock moves too quickly through its initial stages of travel, you can add a spacer to the negative chamber.
While volume spacers are, of course, nothing new in the world of suspension, one thing that does set the Topaz apart from a lot of other shocks on the market is that it features a bladder instead of an internal floating piston (IFP) and that has an impact on both suspension performance and tuning.
Bladders and IFPs seek to do the same thing—reduce the risk of cavitation. When I originally published this story I poorly worded my explanation of cavitation. As several readers quickly noted—air and oil mixing could more accurately be described as aeration or elmulsification. Whereas cavitation is the result of low pressure behind the internal floating piston allowing the shock’s damping fluid to shear or separate into a gas. The nitrogen charged-pressure behind an IFP or, in this case, the air pressure in the bladder, puts positive pressure on the oil to resist the formation the low-pressure pockets (what I was clumsily referring to as “air bubbles”) on the other side of the IFP/badder. Thank you, readers, for pointing out the distinction. There’s a reason IFPs and bladders exist—to provide you with consistent performance when your shock shaft is cycling like mad and you really need your suspension to refrain from suddenly surprising you with some bullshit behavior.
While IFPs clearly work a charm, some suspension manufacturers in the motorsports world prefer bladders, which they contend are more reliable. IFPs rely on a tight seal. Drag a seal back and forth a whole bunch and you get friction and heat. Excess heat can also muddle your shock’s performance on sustained descents (that’s fundamentally why there’s that piggyback reservoir hanging off the shock in the first place—to help cool the damping oil). Anyhoo, a bladder is essentially a mini balloon, so it’s not adding a seal that must drag back and forth along the inside surface of the reservoir. Thus, no additional friction and added heat. Sweet. Why don’t we see more bladders in shocks then? Truth be told, IFPs work well and bladders, manufacturers like DVO claim, are more expensive to manufacture shocks around.
The use of a bladder, however, also gives you another tuning option. To wit, you can unscrew the green cap on the external reservoir and adjust the pressure inside that little balloon. There’s a fairly narrow range of adjustment here—just 30 PSI, but it makes a substantial impact on shock feel. Adding pressure makes the shock firmer throughout its entire stroke. Reducing pressure does the opposite. In other words, changing bladder pressure allows you to essentially shift the entire spring curve up or down, as opposed to changing the shape of the curve, which is what you accomplish with those volume spacers.
Some people live to fiddle with their parts. I prefer to ride. Besides, you can go blind if you get carried away with the fiddling. That said, I appreciate having the option to tune my shock—a few PSI here and there make a world of difference. I wound up settling on 205 PSI in the air spring and 180 PSI in the air bladder. The Mojo HD3 tends to ride pretty high in its travel, regardless of which shock is bolted to it and I didn’t feel the need to add a spacer to the negative spring. I opted for a single spacer in the positive chamber.
While the pictures below show the shock off the bike (I had to weigh it), you can usually add or subtract volume spacers with the shock still on the bike, which makes tuning a whole lot easier. Simply let out the air, take off the ring, and slide down the air can. Because the volume spacers are, essentially, slotted plastic clips, they just snap in place. No need to unbolt the shock from the frame. Nice.
Once I got the shock dialed, I proceeded to ignore its health and well being for a season. To its credit, it never complained or got glitchy. The Topaz replaced a fairly plain-Jane inline shock and the bike’s big-hit performance radically improved with the addition of the DVO shock. Same holds true for suspension performance when the impacts come quick and don’t let up for long stretches. Was the rebound damping particularly consistent because of the bladder, the reservoir, the extra ribbed-for-pleasure “cooling fins” on said reservoir? Who the hell knows? The shock just worked.
Adding a bit more ramp to the end of shock stroke is as simple as letting out the air, unrolling the O-ring, pulling down the air can and adding a volume spacer to the positive chamber. You can also add or subtract volume spacers from the negative chamber to change the Topaz's beginning stroke behavior.
The Mojo HD3’s DW-Link suspension is pretty damn efficient regardless of which shock you are running and I could often leave the Topaz Air wide open. The 3-position compression adjuster, however, does work. It’s a bit more subtle than some compression adjusters—the firmest setting isn’t quite as firm as what you might experience with some other shocks, but I didn’t actually consider that a drawback as I rarely require more compression damping than what was on tap with the “Medium” middle setting. Again, squat isn’t a huge issue with DW-Link.
I’m looking for something to complain about here, but honestly, the Topaz doesn’t leave a lot of room for complaints. I guess the detents on the rebound damping knob are a bit more subtle than I’d like (makes it a bit harder to keep track of the clicks when you are in the fiddling process), but it just required a bit more attention on my part during the initial set-up phase—it’s not like I’m tweaking rebound damping more than once in a blue moon.
In short, the Topaz T3 is a performer. It’s not inexpensive, true, but the DVO is priced on par (a hair less, actually) than its main rivals in this niche.
Pinkbike's Take | There haven't always been a ton of rear suspension options outside the RockShox and Fox fold. While both of those suspension giants produce very solid products, it's always good to see alternatives that actually rival the big guys. DVO's Topaz T3 is a legitimate challenger. It offers a wide range of tuning options, is easy to adjust, holds up to abuse and flat out performs on the trail.— Vernon Felton |
The biggest thing not mentioned in this review is DVO's customer service. Unlike other companies (*cough*FOX*cough*), they deliberately make their products user serviceable without requiring special tools. When it comes time for a rebuild, I can order the rebuild kit from DVO and do a full shock service at home - no special tools or nitrogen required. The DVO guys even offered to jump on the phone with me when the time comes to talk through some shim stack changes that I might try out to get a little bit more HSC support and lighter rebound.
That DVO makes it all serviceable by the consumer? Amazing!
I was even able to email one of their guys who rides the same bike as me to snake his setup (HD3, 2bands positive, 180 bladder, around 205 main air).
The real offender here is Cane Creek. Their stuff truly is not user serviceable - they don't provide manuals, spare parts, or anything else. The DB looks like it requires a special tool just to crack open.
No shock or fork is truly "user serviceable" unless the user has a vacuum oil fill machine, nitrogen tank, etc. A "complete service" requires that the damper be serviced and only folks with professional equipment (like service centers) can do it right. Plus service centers back up there work... if they are a good one.
Cane Creek, Fox, etc. all make air spring parts and tools available to bike shops. My local shop rebuilt my DBAir CS a few months ago and its rocking. Id rather support my local shop and give them business... They're the ones out there really spreading the stoke and keeping me riding.
Not happening bro.
While you may be happy to pay a shop to rebuild your suspension, I am not. I have had more poor rebuilds by "qualified shops" than I can count. Getting a shock or fork rebuilt by a manufacture or good shop, takes weeks and costs about $150 per rebuild. I have 10 mountain bikes including my son's and wife's. It is $3,000 per year to keep them serviced through the manufacture or dealers. I can do it myself and save $2,500 and not be out for weeks on each one.
Still trying to figure out why people are down-vote bombing me, though. I thought I was stating facts.
One week. No fees.
He is fiddling with his parts! You on the other hand, are sitting at a desk all day staring at a computer.... and you are telling us you are not fiddling with your parts?
Increasing bladder pressure doesn't change the force-vs.-displacement curve of the air spring, it effectively increases compression damping.
*nerd rage complete*
Yea his feelings are pretty much like mine. Lovin' my Topaz.
Air and oil mixing is called aeration or aerification.
Bladders and IFPs seek to do the same thing—reduce the risk of cavitation. When I originally published this story I poorly worded my explanation of cavitation. As several readers quickly noted—air and oil mixing could more accurately be described as aeration whereas cavitation is the result of a drop in pressure on the oil allowing vapor cavities (bubbles essentially) to form. The nitrogen charged-pressure behind an IFP or, in this case, the air pressure in the bladder, puts positive pressure on the oil to resist the formation of the vapor bubbles which would otherwise cause inconsistent damping as well as damage to internal components when such bubbles collapse.
When the Onyx SC fork comes out, the 36 will be dead in my book DVO tunability is a huuuuge win.
The 3-position adjusters might be interesting for some seaking simplicity but people buying aftermarket shocks are more likely to be interested in being able to tweak their suspensions on their own without turning to the local tuner.
The ability to tune the air volume in both positive and negative is so you can match the air spring of the shock to work well with your frame design and personal preferences. Example; if you have a super linear bike like the Stumpjumper, you can make the Shock really progressive and get that extra end stroke support.
Then if you want to go further, you can fully customize the shim stack to get it suited for your liking.
The three position knob isn't a tuning feature, it's a practical feature made for immediate and drastic change while riding. The air volume and shim stack is for tuning. Hope this helps!
What I mean is that there are plenty of coil shocks with HSC and LSC adjusters and very little air shocks except for the Fox X2 which is quite expensive, the Cane Creeks which have a not so desirable air spring curve and the X-Fusion Vector for which I have no opinion... (I might have forgotten some..?)
Why don't you make a Topaz with the same adjusters as the Jade? That would be something interesting
Also, I very much understand HSC and the proper way to tune it, but unless you're Aaron Fein, or Richie Rude (Or Danny Hart/Gee Atherton since you're a Brit), most of us mortals benefit much more from ramp up than over damping with HSC. Too often people attempt to get an improperly tuned air spring/volume with extra compression damping, which just results in harsh feel and actually less traction. The DB air and it's siblings are great ideas, but they just don't hold up in the real world. @Bigernmcracken I should've mentioned you in this too, lol.
You're trying to make excuses for a substandard product. The DB series of shocks are an awesome idea, and they've spurred more adjustment from competitors but Cane Creek has admitted that their shocks require almost NASA clean room level maintenance sites. That's great if you have them there to rebuild them once a month or even week for free, but it's impractical and borderline impossible for a regular mountain biker to deal with. As a part time bike and full time car mechanic, I have access to goods and services as a rate most people don't, and even with that it's not worth the downtime. By the way, I'm still waiting for an answer on why my shock failed the 3rd time, they stopped returning my phone calls. I've since spoken to Ronnie at DVO via phone and email for anything from advanced tuning to replacing a part I cracked (took less than 2 days cross country btw). If your product can't hold up, you need to back it with quality customer service. Cane Creek does neither. DVO for the win.
Loved you podcast on Vital BTW
Oil and air mixing is not cavitation, its aeration or entrailment.
Check out the Myth Busting Tuesday Tune at 3:54 for an explanation of cavitation.
www.pinkbike.com/news/the-tuesday-tune-ep-14-myth-busting.html
Spoke with Ronnie and a few other guys from DVO yesterday regarding setup. Got my sag right, and pressures dialed ( I think). I'm definitely not a suspension expert, but I can say that I definitely noticed a huge improvement over the stock monarch on my Hightower.
Right off the bat I noticed the small bump compliance. Almost felt like i was riding on a rear tire with 5psi without losing any speed. Climbing was great, no pedal bob issues in open mode. Decents were kick ass, went through the full travel without any harsh bottoming, or maybe just had a few mm to go before a bottom out. One decent was f@k'n knarly, steeper than yeti's prices, full of rocks and a bit much for my sticky ass guide brakes (hopes are on my to do list).
Originally I thought I was going to leave my pike on the bike and just upgrade the rear... hmm, now I believe I might have to give the Diamond a good thought. Kinda ironic, I ran into another rider with a Topaz/Diamond setup, said he got his Intense dialed by Ronnie and just loves it. That's my luck, I knew I should've built this bike from a frame... I'm just swapping everything out. And now just gonna have to spend more money!
And it is HARLY fiddly. The air can is similar to the monarch, so I just dropped in 2 bands (that you can do on the trail), pumped it up to less than body weight (bonus), went with minimum bladder pressure (170psi), and I was off. The 'climb' position isn't that firm, but at least on good pedalling bikes, it's perfect for climbing and traversing. And in Canada, for whatever reason, it's really well priced compared to Fox.
Bladder just took me over the edge!
There is a reason most of the off road aftermarket suspension tuners have been using and are developing bladders over IFPs, as the article said its heat and friction, tunesbility, awesome. DVO!
We don't need a Fraction too much Friction!
Any insight as to where I should start as a baseline with this shock on my Hightower? Not really tune saavy here :/
Local trails are pretty mellow, some drops every now and then (3-5') with a mixture of ups and downs. With a BMX background, I will coast over some medium sized jumps on the downs (no Ratboy or Semenuk here), but mostly flowy and smooth. My geared weight is about 190 lbs.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-V0cCsxa1Q
Sweet, thanks! I did watch a Cedric's bike check video and was leaning towards this setup. But wasn't sure if I should baseline this tune or not.
Green Topaz on a matte/mint Hightower. But I do have an orange decal kit from invisiframe on order!
Also a 29er wheelset is in route, because 29er is cool!
So what brand/weight of oil does DVO recommend for their products?
I just spent all day riding Whistler lap after lap a solid package, 115mm / 140mm
combo eats everything like a champ. Was only going to do a few runs, but was having way
to much fun to switch back to my Fox equppped DH bike with a 40 float and a dhx2,
115mm Topaz and 140mm Diamond are solid performers.
DVO crew and their products are top notch !
As much as i'd like to compliment DVO, with their good ood customer support, the fact is this shock gave me nothing but trouble from mile 1.
-constantly blown dust seal
-loss of air pressure
-inability to adjust piggyback accurately (even by mechanics)
- stock rebound is too slow even fully open. weird. (need to fiddle with shim stack)
- stanchion color rubbed off after 30mins of persistent mud (never happened to me in any shock in 15 years of riding)
overall, a good performing shock with very supple stroke. very much hindered by reliability on this model, for me and several of my friends alike. Hope it improves in the future. DVO truly deserve to be on the map.
Have you tried contacting us before about this? Please call the shop 661 295 9500 and talk to Ronnie. Or shoot him an email and cc me in it please. ronnied@dvosuspension.com brysonjr@dvosuspension.com
We'll get you taken care of buddy, don't worry.
-Jr
Good customer service is what retains customers.
A generous negative spring, sensible positive spring compression ratio, straightforward damper and LSC adjustment, durable volume compensator, tight tolerances, and good customer service: that's all you really need.
Sorry for late reply this thread but no need to wait - & from a Topaz owner it's ridiculously good.
Now all I have to do now is pair it with Dvo diamond and get rid of shitty rockshox pike :
????????????????????????????
I knew I should have just bought a frame and built from that... now here I am about 2k later post a 4 month old new complete bike. Well, I guess Ill have enough spare shit laying around to slap onto another frame.
I can buy a Topaz T3 for my Trek LT 9.7 2019 ?
Because,it's Trunnion in 205x57.5 !! You have that ?
Thank's to you.
Pascal from France