DeHy is an abbreviation of sorts for "de-hydraulic" and that's exactly what BikeYoke's cable-actuated conversion for RockShox Reverb Stealth dropper seatposts does. The German-made DeHy kit arrives with the necessary hardware, a remote lever, a length of high-quality cable and housing, and a mechanical actuator that threads into the spot that is usually occupied by the Reverb's "Poppet Valve" hydraulic plunger. Remote levers are configured for SRAM and Shimano direct-mount brake lever bosses.
All of the bits are beautifully CNC-machined from aluminum or stainless steel, and DeHy kits can be purchased directly from BikeYoke's online stores in
Germany or
North America. Complete DeHy kits run $124 USD for the SRAM version we reviewed, and $140 for the Shimano-compatible kits. The DeHy mechanical segment alone is sold for $69.
Installation should be easy for home mechanics who have basic experience with shifter and derailleur assemblies. I had the my SRAM Matchmaker-mounted DeHy working in about 30 minutes using only the kit's printed instructions - and that included re-threading the internally routed housing through the frame of the bike.
BikeYoke put together an instructional video that illustrates how simple the DeHy is to install and, after going through the process, I can vouch for that.
Installation My reverb Stealth dropper's hydraulic remote was returning slowly and on the verge of needing a bleed when I took it on a cold and sloppy ride, where the post became unresponsive and stopped midway into its stroke. Installing the DeHy cable conversion seemed like a perfect way to make lemonade from lemons.
The task requires no special tools - just three open-end wrenches, a cable cutter, some Allen keys and a T25 Torx driver. I used a small flat-head screwdriver to remove and replace the Reverb's internal snap ring and, because I was not planning on returning to the standard hydraulic remote, I cut the hose at both ends, about an inch away from the remote lever and the Poppet Valve, so I could use the hose to fish the new cable housing through the inside of the frame.
Tip: Leave the Reverb hose inside the frame and thread a length of wire, first through the new cable housing and then through the hose. Twist a small wrench on either end to prevent the wire from
slipping and then pull the new housing through the frame using the old hose. As long as you use a squeaky clean wire, this method makes short work of a sometimes frustrating task.
My DeHy kit was configured for SRAM Matchmaker direct-mount levers, which caused a small dilemma because my left-side brake lever clamp was dedicated to the RockShox Reverb plunger. Luckily, I had a discarded left-side Matchmaker clamp from the front derailleur era. There are probably a million of them tucked away in parts drawers somewhere. If you need one, you could probably trade for a slice of leftover pizza.
Tip: Getting the housing clipped to the proper length is not super critical, but you don't want it to be too short, because too much tension on the housing can pull on the cable and release the post. Leave enough housing between the remote and the frame to turn the handlebar 90 degrees, then estimate how deep your post will set into the frame to figure out the proper length. An inch too long is much better than one too short. Remember, you won't have to bleed the system if you decide later that you want to trim the housing a bit more.
Riding ImpressionsTruth be told, I could have bled the Reverb's hydraulic remote in about the same time it took to install the DeHy kit. So, assuming that I already had a bleed kit and the proper fluid, I could have saved $125 (had I actually paid for my DeHy) and had a functioning dropper post once again. After riding with the DeHy cable conversion, however, I was convinced that I had made the correct decision.
The shift-paddle-style lever's action is lighter and it feels far more precise - which made it much easier to stop the post mid-stroke for pedally descents than I was accustomed to using the hydraulic button. The radial adjustment of SRAM's Matchmaker brake-lever clamp provides the option to angle the paddle remote like a shift lever, or to operate it vertically, like many riders prefer. I still have muscle memory from the front derailleur era, so I chose the angled position. I was surprised that I did not need any time to acclimate from the push button to the new lever.
I like my dropper posts to extend quickly, and that is exactly what the DeHy does. Depress the lever and the Reverb returns with a snap. A lighter touch on the lever will slow the post's return, but there is no fine tuning feature to control the rate of extension (like the dial adjustment that RockShox built into its push-button lever). I am sure that playing with the Reverb's air spring pressure would enable users to tune the return speed to a degree, but I set the pressure at 250psi and left it there - happy to hear the top-out sound the moment my thumb called for extension.
Comparing FeaturesRockShox's choice to use a hydraulic actuation system provides a couple of advantages over a cable system. The most salient is that, properly installed, the hose can be kinked, pulled and shoved, and the post will still function properly. The second is that it is a sealed system, so it should be impervious to cold, wet and dirty conditions. In the real-world, however, the Reverb's remote often becomes sluggish when temperatures drop near freezing, which is annoying.
The DeHy's cable-operated alternative is sealed from the elements at the seatpost, but is exposed at the remote lever. If you have issues with your cable operated shift levers in freezing or mucky situations, you can anticipate the same from your DeHy. That's a rare occurrence these days, but it happens. On the plus side, the lever action of the DeHy system is more intuitive (both right and left hands mirror the same movement), and the option to set the lever where it works best is a feature that the Reverb's push-button cannot duplicate.
Pinkbike's Take: | I'm a fan. RockShox Reverb seatposts have earned my respect as one of the more reliable members of the dropper generation, and I was happy to live with its push-button remote until I spent time with the DeHy conversion. BikeYoke's cable-driven remote and its paddle-type lever are an expensive purchase, but for Reverb owners who want a more user-friendly remote, the DeHy is a delightful improvement. It's a more ergonomic alternative, easier to service, and one less reason to smell like hydraulic fluid while I'm wrenching on my bikes. - RC |
Now running a Race Face Turbine, having many more issues and missing my Reverb.
Touched a Fox Transfer once and that one seems the most solid of them.
I' ve seen one in someone elses bike, I was on the trails with and for 2 months I also own the 170mm version. Great stuff. If you want one, you have to enter on a list.
They formerly had problems with their manufacturer in Taiwan.now they are starting to produce in germany and finally they will become available. Problem is,there were so many preordered that they are srrved first.
The only "bad" about the moveloc is,no internal routing and it is longer than some others.
If i hadnt suddenly had the luck, to get one M earlier I' d have gone with the 160mm revive from bikeyoke.
owned them since 2012, 2 stealth’s just sold non steath with a bike. all working perfectly. used in uk all year. try different bleed techniques until you find one that works for you (cold weather problems ,sounds like moisture in oil,completely change oil next bleed maybe )
the sit on dropping is purely pressure related' 250psi should sort that out
DeHy is clever but are we not trying to get away from bow-den cables
just a better shape/style hydro lever would be good
Reverb: Oil -AND- Air pressure to make the thing go? Way over-thought by RS. The final insult is having to pull the saddle to check air pressure. I could warranty my Reverb but I doubt I'lll ever get around to it. After months of riding a triple-suspension bike with a terrible plunger, I pulled it out, cutting the hose and threw it in the Transfer box. Installed the Fox myself with minimal effort, slapped on a Wolf Tooth ReMote paddle and never looked back.
I'll definitely be picking up a DeHy, but it's sad that I need to spend $70-140 to upgrade the lever on a recently redesigned $500 post.
Yup running my right top remote, under the left side.
I quite like the lever, but if your only problem is having a paddle lever, you can consider novyparts lever that was reviewed a couple of months ago.
It seems like someone could easily make a lever conversion kit that attaches a paddle to the current lever... too bad I don't have acces to a Cnc. Anyone want my idea drawn out?
It really does work, & feel, extremely good.
I'm also not keen on the fact that if you do have a seal failure in the Reverb, your post is stuck down. Not a big deal if you run enough post to simply bring it out of the seat tube, but for folks who have bike with short seat tubes a blown Reverb means that you're standing for the rest of the ride.
When I had my reverb it slowed down a LOT even when temps hit the 10C-15C range (about what you found in F). So here in Canada that's a good part of the year where the Reverb is less than ideal. And useless when it gets colder than that.
My Fox Transfer on the other hand (much like the Fox DOSS I had on a previous frame) has been impervious to cold. Even at the freezing mark it functions without any change.
Also, a lot of the complaints about the reverb in cold weather is that the button itself gets stiff.
Yes, you could just buy a different dropper, but for some, that's not as easy an option, & this kit does work quite well.
Save yourself some money and they also have ex display models for ÂŁ99
www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=brand-x+ascend+dropper+seatpost&cat=product
Even if it doesn't hold up the two year warranty means it should be straight forward to get sorted and if it only lasts for two years its a damn sight cheaper per year than other posts.
The new lever and cable is still cheaper than this.
So again: The point of the DeHy is the trigger-style lever, not the "dehydraulification".
But I understand, I'm assuming creating a hydraulic trigger-style remote would have made quite a bulky remote due to the travel needed?
I'm assuming you're using the same lever from your dropper post for this solution?
The only real engineering/design problems I've had have been more design choices on fork dampers that I didn't agree with(I don't want to trade good damping for a lockout function on my fork, TYVM RS) & the terrible ergonomics of the stock Reverb lever.
You could probably find an old above the brake thumb shifter for far cheaper than a modern XT shifter, but the much better ergonomics of the XT are worth the extra cash, no?
I love Rockshox and use their forks and shocks, but the reverb is something I would expect from Crank Brothers, not them. Please fix it.
" Mtbkid21 (10 hours ago):
I don't think that I've ever heard of the reverb being described as "reliable" "
Which is the top comment right now. A lot of other people have had good experiences with them (including me) and are trying to offer a counterpoint.
Nobody does that, any more (or less) than the bloke whose kit breaks tries to present THAT as the Status Quo.
Frankly you have to be a bit of a pillock to think that's what it means. It's just another data point.
I am very sure, once you have used a dropper with a remote like KS Southpaw, or Specialized SLR, or our Triggy, then you will understand. If one thinks, that standard Reverb remote feels better, than a good trigger remote, then I am rellay not sure, what to think about that ;-)
The other share of their ordered posts will go there with the upcoming shipment that is coming by beginning of February.
I am not sure, how many posts BC is stocking, or when you ordered, though.
Long story short: As of now, I will send some posts to BC from one of the first two shipments, and the other ones later, but at least by beginning of February.
And with this February shipment I will have enough stock of all posts (well, I should have, if not the orders go through the roof).
Makes me happy I just bought 2 Fox Transfers for my bikes.
"norm" in biking. Leaning towards trying the 9point8 when time comes for a new dropper
Rear derailers don't cover the cable and are exposed to waaaaaay more water, mud, grit, etc. If rear derailers aren't a problem, then the even better covered and less exposed amount of cable of this dropper lever shouldn't be a concern at all. My entire bike is currently covered with a layer of mud so thick you can't see what color it is... except for the outer ends of the handlebar. They are out of the way of splashed and wheel flung mud.
They're not directly comparable, all you can really say is that covered is better than open(having lived through the days of interrupted housing, while living someplace that gets snow, this I can confirm.)
The lightweight dropper levers leave a lot of the cable exposed.
Off subject I know, I posted a "go fund me" page link in the thread, to try and help ex pro BMX rider Stephen Murray move back to the UK.
My post has been removed, and some cheeky c*nt @seraph has simply said "no" to getting behind the collection?
What am I missing here, after watching the Aitken vid on "movies for your Monday" (great feature by the way), it made me think of his injury and recovery. Which cast my mind back to Murray & his. I ressarched his current state hoping for a happy update. It was not so. He's a grand away from his target to move back to his family, something I thought we would all get behind.
Have I missed some commentary on this, or are @seraph and PB both. Ring arses by doing this?
Please enlighten me.
Thanks,
MJH
This is (sorry, if Im being so straight forward now) BS! There are totally different requirements on brakes than on dropper actuation. Or do you care about a defined bite point and modulation for a dropper?
Hydraulic actuation can have its advantages on both, brakes and droppers, that is true.
However, on brakes, hydraulic actuation clearly outperforms the mechanical actuation, but for droppers a bite point and modulation does not matter at all, so the theoretical benefits of a hydraulic actuation is reduced to exactly one thing: Being immune to dirt and weather.
And if you have ever had to do with a service center or worked oat one, who has to take care of Reverbs, then you´d know, that a hydraulic seatpost actuation is anything but trouble free. So the benefit is not there anymore IMHO.
If I had to choose between replacing a cable and and bleeding a hose, then I know, which one to go for. I can get a cable and outer housing everywhere.
mechanical disk brakes are still more reliable- it's the reason many bikepackers use them instead of hydraulic brakes, despite being inferior otherwise.
www.gofundme.com/bringhomestephen
Can we all get behind this please?