Bike Check: Walker Shaw's Santa Cruz V10 CC - Downhill Southeast - Windrock II 2020

 Exactly!!

 His little brother wont notice a missing part or two.

 @ihertzler right?!? that thing looks so dated. Unrideable.

 Your fork is noodle if its stanchion is less than 38mm now.

 @Ajorda: but less offset = more trail = more stability, right?

 @Ajorda: Short offset = longer trail = more stability.
It's a good point kinematix. Paul Aston tested short offset on DH bikes and it looked promising:
www.pinkbike.com/news/review-outsider-bikes-adjustable-offset-crowns.html

 its the head angle, 44mm offset would have a huge amount of trail.

 @thegoodflow: @rojo-1 Ah I got my terminology wrong, then. Thanks for the correction.

 So rockshox offers shorter offset crowns, and the new 2021 40 is a 52mm offset. Fox had the 48mm offset for the 49. I think the ticket on a DH bike is anywhere between 50mm and 54mm, given personal preference. I've played with the MORC offset crowns on my 49, and am currently using a 44mm offset on an Ohlins DH38. The 44mm offset offers very quick response while still maintaining stability, however i ran a 50mm offset on my 49, which give the bike a very predictable carve to each turn allowing the bike to feel more neutral. If I had to choose for myself, I'd go 52mm as I think it would land directly in between.

 neither fox nor RS are producing 58mm anymore, they finally realized DH bikes should be given modern numbers...

 Id like a adjustable reach headset on my non dh bike. Why not ditch tapered headtubes? Guessing dh has triple clamp so therefore can have the less stiff straight headtube...?

 DH bikes are having dual crown forks. If you are using the a smaller offset (say, 46mm vs 58mm), then you will end up with smaller turning angles, because the fork will interfer with your frame. I am using a 46mm offset boxxer and I can feel how limited the truning angles are compared to a 58mm one.

 @pkuyeti: It's really easy to design around that though. Just put more offset in the crown and less in the lowers

 @thegoodflow: yes

 When a SC fork is ridden, the flex makes the effective offset longer than that 44mm number.

 @thegoodflow: You are right, but manufactures are just not doing what you said, as it is much easier to switch crowns than to switch the lowers.

 Same for the X, 290 psi sounds stiff af.

 What he said normal King headset not a buzzworks offset one, also He is running rock shox suspension you say but with the float x2 rear? You guys need to check the text with the pics....

 @christiaan: edit = rs fork , fox shock

 Not santa cruz one for starters.

 Had Code Rs for 1.5 years. They were terrible. Had to bleed them every 4-5 weeks and never got a really good braking point with them. On long descends, fading was an issue as well, next to lacking braking power. All in all they're terrible brakes. Changed to Magura MT5s... they're so far ahead of the Codes.

 Those Old Codes are rockstars if you can keep up on the maintenance. As long as you stay above the Code R on the new stuff, you're good.

 @Ajorda: what do you find wrong with the code r? I haven’t had any problems running them for over 2 seasons, they’ve been super reliable for me

 @leadsledpaintrain: I'm also on Code R and they have been great. I would need to have a fair bit more expendable income to want to spend an extra $100 per brake to get RSC. I do wish they made a Code RS though.

 @pacificnorthwet: I've seen Code RS a few times. I think they came as spec on some bikes. YT comes to mind.

 I run the code RSC for 3 years now, never had an issue and I think I had to bleed them once.. I would like to know how they compare to the oldschool ones cause I had them when I was younger and used to love them!

 @leadsledpaintrain: It may just be the production batch I had. I couldn't keep a decent amount of pressure, so they'd lose power halfway down a run at a low elevation change bike park. Went for some used RS models and haven't had the same issue.

 It's probably worth noting that there is a big difference between the R's and the RSC's. If I remember correct, the R is a direct link, while the RSC is powerlink. In non-marketing terms, the RSC ramps up, while the R is a linear increase in braking force.

 @jeremias: Lol i bought my first codes at 265 lbs and they stopped me just fine.

 @pacificnorthwet: They do for OEM. I imagine it will be available aftermarket, eventually.

 No way Jolanda could be making him soft.

 @Thirty3: I’m dead.

 You have wild enduro for that.

 @tonit91: Bring back the Hot S!

 I would assume that they are measured from open since you are adding clicks is synonymous with adding damping.

 @pacificnorthwet: they are almost always counted from close (almost because almost everyone knows that´s the right way to do it)

 And this is why nobody understands how to set up their suspension. Does nobody watch the Dialed series?

 Always closed because it’s consistent, the first couple clicks from open can have no effect.

 @ryankxf: thanks.

So I take it that this guy is running really high psi without much rebound damping.

 @Mattysville: no, I don't have suspension so why would I?

 @Gerlewis: the opposite, he’s running more damping. So he’s running 6 out with his psi. If he was to drop psi he would Have to back out the rebound (Less rebound damping) To achieve the same rebound speed.

 @ryankxf: oh yeah, thanks

 Walker is a former BMX pro. Not a hacker or basher. I'm more shocked that he runs no lower bashguard on his chain guide, especially at Windrock, where stuff likes to flip up from your front wheel and mash the sprocket.

 This is pretty much a top level bike, isn't it? Chris King hubs and headset (probably, otherwise only a top cap), carbon rims, top level carbon frame... Fair enough Chris King stuff is workhorse level but only if you actually keep (and properly use) them until they're toast.

 @vinay: 100% agree! I just stay pumped on bikes in general. I like that it's set up to take care of business and that it doesn't feel pretentious for a pro-level rider.

 @vinay: the thing about king is that if they fit on every bike you will ever own, then you could keep transferring them. They are rebuild able and I've heard stories of headsets from the 90s that are still running even though the bikes they were on aren't!

 @justgoride: Well, that's cool. I wouldn't question their durability. But as for the headset, hasn't the steerer tube interface changed in the mean time or is a straight steerer still common for dual crown forks? Same for the hubs. Would a 90's hub fit a modern all boost frame? There is a lot of energy that goes into the creation of such an accurate piece of gear. And that's well worth it you use it as long as it lasts. The transition from 20x110 or 9x100 to 15x100 and that from anythingx135 to 12x142 has been relatively smooth for hubs with cartridge bearings. But after that if you wanted to stick with "old" it often implied some kind of compromise. Luckily I'm not really into the latest tech and standards so for me CK would probably be a fine investment. But I honestly doubt the CK components on the bike in question have been used before (unless they've been his brothers' yesteryears stuff) and just the same I doubt they'll continue to be used if mountainbike standards continue to "progress" as they do. That said, I don't see much reason for standards to evolve much from now. But that's what we always think of course. But I'm with you, these won't ever see the trashcan. They'll always find a place on some bike. Even if it happens to be someones timeless steel hardtail!

 @vinay: i believe straight steerers are still common for dual crown bikes. i wasn't, however, saying the headset was from the 90s. just that it is a very durable piece of kit that can be rebuilt over and over and over therefore makes sense if you can afford the up front investment. if you keep your bike for more than a few years a headset that will last that long makes sense, although in our 'bikes are disposable' culture many people sell them after just one season.

 @justgoride: I've kept my previous steel hardtail frame for a decade even though I wasn't perfectly happy with it. It was pretty short but I got it because for me the low top tube was (and always is) the determining factor. I now have a hardtail frame built 100% to my specs. I see no reason to not keep it for a couple of decades. The previous hardtail had an FSA the Pig DH headset and it kept up just fine. For my current frame I was on the fence between Chris King and Hope. But it is a 150mm headtube for a 120mm travel fork, so loads aren't particularly high. And the frame builders (who also installed the headset) said that when properly installed and preloaded, the headset keeps up for years and I honestly don't expect it to fail. These headsets are built to survive use on bikes with 100mm headtubes (or shorter) and much longer forks than I run. But yeah I can definitely see myself buy a used Chris King hub and build myself a sweet new wheel.