The MTB Quick Question Thread 3.0 - Parts names & abreviations link on first post.

PB Forum :: Bikes, Parts, and Gear
The MTB Quick Question Thread 3.0 - Parts names & abreviations link on first post.
Author Message
flag drpepperrider2
Posted: Sep 18, 2017 at 16:47 Quote
sam-hughes1 wrote:
drpepperrider2 wrote:
Quick question, if you had to choose between a high roller 2 folding bead with 120tpi (which is 1000g and has thick sidewall) or a dhf folding 60 tpi (860g). For rear application?

Thing is, i got the high roller, got home and noticed it was a little heavier and then noticed it had 120tpi, im not sure if thats an advantage or a disadvantage.

Use the high roller on the back it works great, rolling resistance will be much better than the dhf (although it is a great front tire)
sounds good
flag VTwintips
Posted: Sep 19, 2017 at 14:36 Quote
More tpi is only a good thing.
flag drpepperrider2
Posted: Sep 20, 2017 at 6:35 Quote
VTwintips wrote:
More tpi is only a good thing.
ok this is what i wanted to hear. The sidewalls are hella thick so i figured it was a good thing haha
flag ehsanap
Posted: Sep 21, 2017 at 12:09 Quote
I ride mostly Street & a little park. I'm looking to upgrade my frame to either:

Dartmoor TwoSix £180.00 - http://slam69.co.uk/2016-dartmoor-two6player---26-frame-price-drop-7508-p.asp

photo

Octane One Spark £179.99 - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/octane-one-spark-frame-2017/rp-prod155478

photo

Octane One Zircus £125.99 - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/octane-one-zircus-frame-2017/rp-prod155480

photo

Few questions:

Which is best value for money?

I ride 80mm forks, and I'm worried about the low BB on dirt orientated frames. Is there an issue with using a dirt frame for street in terms of ease of use and learning new tricks, or should I really consider street/park orientated geo for maximum potential?

Alu frame for street & park, any issues there?

Thanks in advance!
flag Thepureface
Posted: Sep 21, 2017 at 15:41 Quote
If you ride mostly street and park it would make sense to avoid dirt oriented frames.

Best value out of those 3 is the zircus, it's not a huge difference though in price between all 3.

Alu frames are not ideal for street, you want a steel frame! I would seriously consider a deity street sweeper if I were you... They don't produce them anymore but they are killer!
flag Nobble
Posted: Sep 21, 2017 at 20:34 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
If you ride mostly street and park it would make sense to avoid dirt oriented frames.

Best value out of those 3 is the zircus, it's not a huge difference though in price between all 3.

Alu frames are not ideal for street, you want a steel frame! I would seriously consider a deity street sweeper if I were you... They don't produce them anymore but they are killer!
I need to find a V3 sweeper before they all vanish.
flag neenuunee
Posted: Sep 22, 2017 at 1:23 Quote
omtimasprime wrote:
JacobSpera wrote:
Have a Renthal 35mm stem with Renthal bars.

I keep having issues with the stem slipping when im riding. Ive cleaned the stem and fork tube of all grease and darn thing keeps on slipping. Renthal has always made amazing products and im at a loss for what is happening.

Anyone have similar experience? I tighten the bolts pretty hard and not wanting to go too much more for fear of stripping out the threads.

Have u tried using finish lines "fibre grip"? It looks like grease but helps to create friction in between clamping surfaces.
Torque wrench maybe
flag MattyPugh
Posted: Sep 22, 2017 at 14:31 Quote
Hightower LT S vs Orange stage 6 RS vs Trek slash 9.8? which would you choose for a 29er to shred everything!
flag brianl
Posted: Sep 22, 2017 at 15:24 Quote
MattyPugh wrote:
Hightower LT S vs Orange stage 6 RS vs Trek slash 9.8? which would you choose for a 29er to shred everything!
add the new RIP9.
flag M3TAL
Posted: Sep 22, 2017 at 18:01 Quote
I have a 2003 Cannondale Jekyll with a 68/73, 113mm square taper, threaded bottom bracket with old shimano cranks that are beat up. I want to change my cranks to SRAM X01 and the appropriate BB. BB30 I think.

So my question is, can I get the X01 cranks and BB and just swap them or do I have to stick with the square taper style BB and cranks?

I should also mention that the bike has a SRAM NX 1x11 setup, so I don't need multiple chainrings or front derailleur to be considered in any answers. Thank you in advance,

M3TAL (noob)
flag omtimasprime
Posted: Sep 22, 2017 at 19:14 Quote
M3TAL wrote:
I have a 2003 Cannondale Jekyll with a 68/73, 113mm square taper, threaded bottom bracket with old shimano cranks that are beat up. I want to change my cranks to SRAM X01 and the appropriate BB. BB30 I think.

So my question is, can I get the X01 cranks and BB and just swap them or do I have to stick with the square taper style BB and cranks?

I should also mention that the bike has a SRAM NX 1x11 setup, so I don't need multiple chainrings or front derailleur to be considered in any answers. Thank you in advance,

M3TAL (noob)

I don't know about a bb30 for that bike. Might be able to get an external threaded Bottom bracket other wise you could run GXP seam cranks.
flag M3TAL
Posted: Sep 23, 2017 at 5:45 Quote
omtimasprime wrote:

I don't know about a bb30 for that bike. Might be able to get an external threaded Bottom bracket other wise you could run GXP seam cranks.

According to SRAM's website, the. Cranks I'm looking at have the GXP technology. I could use a GXP BB, I just wasn't sure yet which one I needed.

But really, I just want to know if I can use any cranks, with the appropriate bottom bracket, in place of my current setup? Does the spindle length have to be the same or can it be longer?
flag omtimasprime
Posted: Sep 23, 2017 at 17:26 Quote
Spindle length won't matter if your not using a square taper bottom bracket. Your frames bb shell width will basically decide which spindle length you need for those cranks.
flag mrgonzo
Posted: Sep 23, 2017 at 18:43 Quote
M3TAL wrote:
omtimasprime wrote:

I don't know about a bb30 for that bike. Might be able to get an external threaded Bottom bracket other wise you could run GXP seam cranks.

According to SRAM's website, the. Cranks I'm looking at have the GXP technology. I could use a GXP BB, I just wasn't sure yet which one I needed.

But really, I just want to know if I can use any cranks, with the appropriate bottom bracket, in place of my current setup? Does the spindle length have to be the same or can it be longer?

Havent bought new cranks in a while but they generally come with a bottom bracket and spacers so you should be all set. Haven't heard of square taper in a while, thats a throwback.
flag mtb55
Posted: Sep 27, 2017 at 12:10 Quote
mrgonzo wrote:
mtb55 wrote:
I need a little help... I have a 2006 Specialized Enduro Expert that came with a Progessive 5th element air shock. The shock has no oil damping at all. No rebound, so on bigger hits it can buck me off the bike, and constant chattery bumps make it too put like mad, making it sound like something will break or tank out. I really need to either get this shock serviced, (Don't know anywhere that will, it's old and Progressive is out of business...) or Ideally get a new shock.

So my question to you is where can I get the shock serviced, or If I cant, then what would be an adequate replacement shock for a 2006 Enduro?

Sounds like a good excuse to upgrade the whole bike. Probably not what you want to hear but i wouldn't keep throwing money at an 11 year old bike.


Excuse me? I already have upgraded the whole bike, came with a RS Tora, so put on a 2009 36 Talas, Thompson stem, RF Atlas bars, Mavic 823s laced to Chris king hubs.11' Marta Fr brakes with Deore levers, 12' xt derailleur with xtr shifters... Yes, its a 2006, but I upgrade all of my bikes, so literally the only thing left to upgrade IS the shock. So I'm asking for a litte help finding the Ideal shock for my frame. E2E is 8.75, stroke is 2.75. Thanks in advance.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.044858
Mobile Version of Website