So I'm building a street bike for 2009...Here's a list of what I have come up with so far, looking for thoughts or personal experience on what goes good or should be replaced or what I missed...I don't have a price limit for parts but I'd rather not spend $400 on a headset and shit...And colors I'm going for is white, lime, and red.
Frame - 2008/09 NS Bikes Suburban 24" (Lime) Fork - 2008 Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 1 Lowered (White) Headset - Chris King (Red) Stem - NS Bikes Quark Pro 25.4mm (Red), Straitline Pinch Clamp (Black) Brake Front - None Brake Rear - Hayes Stroker Trail Disc (White) Crankset - Profile Lite w/ Ti Spindle, & Ti Crank Bolts (Black, White) Sprocket - Profile Wake (Red, White) Derailleur Rear - None Derailleur Front - None Handlebar - NS District 25.4mm Low Rise (Red), Spank Bitch Stick, Block 8 12-Gauge Seatpost - Alienation Billy Club 27.2mm (Black) Saddle - Duo Rogue Status (Red) Shifters - None Grips - Knight Sabre (Glow-n-the-dark) Cassette - Single Speed Pedals - Animal Hamilton PC (Clear) or Dangerboy (Red) or Straitlines (Red) Chain - KMC Crazy Chain (Rainbow) Chainguide - None Bottom Bracket - Profile Euro BB Skewers - 20mm (front), NS SS (rear)
Tire Front - Maxxis Holy Roller, Schwalbe Table Top Tire Rear - Maxxis Holy Roller, Schwalbe Table Top Tubes - DH Rated Rime Tape - Weldtite SureRide Anti Puncture Tape Spokes Front - DT Champion Spokes Rear - DT Champion Hub Front - Hope Pro2 20mm (Red, Gold), NS Bikes Roller Pro 20mm MKII (Red) Hub Rear - Hope Pro2 SS (Red, Gold), NS Bikes Coaster Pro Singlespeed MKII (Red) Rim Front - Spank Stiffy (Green), Halo SAS (White) Rim Rear - Spank Stiffy (Green), Halo SAS (White)
not bad choices but there are things you could make better..
firstly if youre gonna run a fork on a sub make sure its lowered to 80mm, otherwise it feels nasty, a dj1 or a 4x would be nice. M4/codes are way overkill and not needed, too much braking power which you wont even need. A juicy 5 or somthing would be great ns districts are steel 22.2s. if you want 31.8s they do other bars in that size, theres no point having steel bars unless you ride rigid either. tyre wise schwalbe table tops are alot better than maxxis, they weigh alot less and are faster profiles are the best around, dont get an imperial though, get a 7075 (i think) sproket as itll last alot longer and be tougher, like a profile wake dont get a pro 2 rear either, get a proper 1 peice driven hub which is meant for ss and will be alot tougher, also you want a nutted hub so you dont have to bolt down your dropouts if youre gonna get spank rims get the subrosas, theyre a fair bit lighter. mtx and pimplites are a good choice too
So I'm building a street bike for 2009...Here's a list of what I have come up with so far, looking for thoughts or personal experience on what goes good or should be replaced or what I missed...I don't have a price limit for parts but I'd rather not spend $400 on a headset and shit...And colors I'm going for is white, lime, and red.
Frame - 2008/09 NS Bikes Suburban 24" (Lime) Fork - 2008 Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 1 20mm (White) Headset - Chris King (Red) Stem - NS Bikes Quark (Red) Brake Front - None Brake Rear - Hope M4 Ltd Edt. w/ Ti Bolt Kit (Red), Avid Codes (White) Crankset - Profile w/ Ti Spindle, & Ti Crank Bolts (Black) Sprocket - Profile Imperial (Red) Derailleur Rear - None Derailleur Front - None Handlebar - NS Bikes District 31.8 (Red) Seatpost - Alienation Billy Club 27.2mm (Black) Saddle - Duo Rogue Status (Red) Shifters - None Grips - Knight Sabre (Glow-n-the-dark) Cassette - Single Speed Pedals - Animal Hamilton PC (Clear) Chain - KHE Pro chain Chainguide - None Bottom Bracket - Profile Euro BB Skewers - 20mm (front), NS SS (rear)
Tire Front - Kenda Small Block 8 Tire Rear - KHE Mac Tubes - DH Rated Rime Tape - Weldtite SureRide Anti Puncture Tape Spokes Front - DT Champion Spokes Rear - DT Champion Hub Front - Hope Pro2 20mm (Red, Gold) Hub Rear - Hope Pro2 SS (Red, Gold) Rim Front - Spank Stiffy (Green)) Rim Rear - Spank Stiffy (Green),
Ya I figured the m4/codes wud be overkill but they also have 'stop-on-half-a-dime' power, pretty good bang for the buck..but im sure others are just as reliable and cheaper. Weight to me isn't an issue as much as it is to others, I'm not trying to fly this thing just ride it. but thanks so far on the comments, t'is really helping.
Ya I figured the m4/codes wud be overkill but they also have 'stop-on-half-a-dime' power, pretty good bang for the buck..but im sure others are just as reliable and cheaper. Weight to me isn't an issue as much as it is to others, I'm not trying to fly this thing just ride it. but thanks so far on the comments, t'is really helping.
personally i wouldnt want a brake that powerful on a bike with horizontal dropouts. i own a code and have ridden many m4s and they just feel out of place on a hardtail, for dh you definately want codes but otherwise it doesnt matter. with a rear brake anyway youre only gonna lock it up anyway which isnt gonna really help if you ride trails or parks etc..
Ya I figured the m4/codes wud be overkill but they also have 'stop-on-half-a-dime' power, pretty good bang for the buck..but im sure others are just as reliable and cheaper. Weight to me isn't an issue as much as it is to others, I'm not trying to fly this thing just ride it. but thanks so far on the comments, t'is really helping.
personally i wouldnt want a brake that powerful on a bike with horizontal dropouts. i own a code and have ridden many m4s and they just feel out of place on a hardtail, for dh you definately want codes but otherwise it doesnt matter. with a rear brake anyway youre only gonna lock it up anyway which isnt gonna really help if you ride trails or parks etc..
I have previously owned a set of M4's and I would never try them on a street bike... Simply suicidal if you ask me
Well the best interest for me would be to scrap the codes/m4 as everyone suggests. The Hayes Stroker Trail Disc in my opinion is the better choice so then it will be added, I have owned juicy 3s & 5s and both times the seals broke, but they were roughed up alot, won't hurt to try out the Strokers.
Well the best interest for me would be to scrap the codes/m4 as everyone suggests. The Hayes Stroker Trail Disc in my opinion is the better choice so then it will be added, I have owned juicy 3s & 5s and both times the seals broke, but they were roughed up alot, won't hurt to try out the Strokers.
I've tried Stroker's after owning a set of Hope M4s and Formula ORO K24s and I have to tell you, I was Impressed
There modulation is fantastic, Altough the power is what I expected, One finger braking is still possible. Also, they are a dawdle to fix