SRAM DUB Crankset removal

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
SRAM DUB Crankset removal
Author Message
flag a-double
O+
Posted: Sep 7, 2019 at 7:32 Quote
Same issue here. Even a 18v impact wrench wouldn’t work. Installed myself to 54 n-m. Terrible. This seems to be a raceface copycat design but I never had these issues with 3 sets of cinch cranks.
flag jegsmith
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 16:29 Quote
Its the stock loctite patch they are using on the self extracting bolt, its way too aggressive. Best to clean it off or buy a replacement bolt and use red loctite...
flag Explodo
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 19:07 Quote
SRAM = garbage. It's the only crankset I've ever had to drill out in my life(about to be 45). The bolt seized and throwing a breaker bar on the wrench only rounded out the hex inside. This happened a few weeks ago. I drilled it out, threw away the bb, and put in a chris king and race face setup. The whole ordeal sealed in my mind to never buy an SRAM product again. I only had the garbage to begin with because it came with my bike.
flag a-double
O+
Posted: Sep 14, 2019 at 9:42 Quote
SRAM strikes again with customer Beta testing. I'll think twice about buying another SRAM product.

Shimano gets knocked for being late to the market but SRAM is quick to market while making customers test their products =\
flag fxrextreme
Posted: Sep 15, 2019 at 11:42 Quote
Anyone tried heat to soften the locktite?
Kes
flag a-double
O+
Posted: Sep 17, 2019 at 20:52 Quote
The real question is: is SRAM doing anything about this?
flag darski
Posted: Dec 29, 2019 at 17:56 Quote
Thanks for the tips. I read this thread for the same reasons as everyone else and agree; SRAM DUB removal sucks balls. I'm switching cranksets anyway, for shorter arms, so it's Shimano for me.
flag smokediver75
Posted: Jan 9, 2020 at 13:50 Quote
This thread helped me out a lot as I had a new Absolute Oval I wanted to install but was experiencing same problems. Impact gun did the trick for me, just wear eye protection since a lot of force is being generated on a relatively small contact area. Cheers.
flag WBYERS
Posted: Mar 26, 2020 at 7:17 Quote
I had the same issue as described from others in this posting.
It felt as if I was going to break something and I didn't really want to crank down because I thought I would damage my carbon frame.
After discovering this posting and reading from others I decided to go for it.
Ended up applying some Kroil to help penetrate and help with loosening the 8MM.
Three beers later I felt enough time had passed for the Kroil to work so I went for it.
With my bike on the stand and on the drive side I put my left foot on the pedal while holding a ratch-it-wrench with extension and 8mm attachment socket pulling towards me.
I was feeling pretty good from the three beers so really went for it and BAM!!! It finally broke loose with no damage.
Good luck!
flag thomasha
Posted: Mar 27, 2020 at 19:53 Quote
fxrextreme wrote:
Anyone tried heat to soften the locktite?
Kes

I've tried with no success. Heat is supposed to help with thread lockers. Heated from the drive side applying heat through the bolt. This side worries me as I don't want to thermally expand the crank bolt head too much given the force I'm about to put through it. It's not a great fit to start with, even with my brand new German Weha allen key. Tried from the non drive side up through the spindle. Not sure how well this heated as the head of my blow torch didn't fit inside the spindle. No success either. I'm going to get out the breaker bar next as I don't have an impact driver.

For the record, I've got Truvativ Stylo DUB cranks factory installed on a brand new bike. Would like to chase and face the bb and ensure it's properly greased, as they never are. What a pain!
flag oatkinso
FL
Posted: Apr 28, 2020 at 8:02 Quote
Anyone got any tips for removing a DUB bb? It’s threaded, I have the dub bb remover wrench but the bastard won’t budge; wrench is just tearing the bb she’ll to pieces like it’s made of cheese. Needless to say, I’m trying to install a shimano crank and king bb!
flag gspottickles918
Posted: Apr 28, 2020 at 22:25 Quote
The easiest way to get those cranks off is to remove a pedal and stick a T handle hex wrench into bolt and stomp on it while your standing on your bike and leaning on something. I got mine off in a few stomps
flag saucybmw540i
Posted: May 17, 2020 at 9:29 Quote
Wow that was awful. Never used a breaker bar on a crankset before.

Also: SRAM DUB 73mm Threaded BB and Truvativ Stylo cranks for sale. SRAM 34T “Eagle Technology” X-SYNC2 chainring included at no extra charge but you will still be paying for it.
flag Sreyno
O+
Posted: May 27, 2020 at 14:06 Quote
I've just had the same problem removing a stylo DUB crankset. I'm not actually convinced it is factory applied loctite, as I had previously swapped the cranks from a new bike to an old one with no trouble.

I'm not sure what the thread pitch is on the bolt, but I think the stated 54n/m torque requirement is a bit ridiculous. I can only assume the builder on my new bike didn't tighten it up to spec; I definitely did, with a calibrated torque wrench and made sure everything was lathered in grease. The result was the shearing of one (admittedly cheapish) hex bit, and subsequent release using a handled hex key and 3 ft pipe.

The cracking noise was enough to scare off the local birdlife!
flag thomasha
Posted: Jun 19, 2020 at 18:15 Quote
Got mine off finally. Went to the local car mechanic and used their air compressor driven impact driver. Got it off no worries.

No signs of Loctite on the threads and plenty of grease installed, so guessing it's just a shitty design or over torqued from the factory, or both.

Yay SRAM!

 


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