Orange seal vs stans

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Orange seal vs stans
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Posted: Oct 30, 2015 at 6:52 Quote
I'm sure this is an ongoing debate......
Gorilla tape cut to size over spokes????
Stans????
Orange seal????
Preferences and experiences with either??? Read up a little that said Orange seal worked better and stayed liquid longer

Posted: Oct 30, 2015 at 8:51 Quote
I have switched from Stans to Orange Seal and like it a lot. Stans seems to create rubber creatures inside your tires and has to be replaced about every 3-6 months or sooner. Orange seal does not create the rubber creatures and I have gone at least 6 months without adding any to my tires. It also seals larger holes better.

I use stans tape, but gorilla tape will work just as well. I have seen some use packing tape (the stuff with fibers in it) with success as well. Orange seal is now marketing tape, so that is another option.

Posted: Nov 2, 2015 at 8:43 Quote
I have been using orange seal for over a year now, and i won't use anything else for tubeless. i was a cheapo on my last bike and did the ghetto tubeless setup. i ran about 25 psi up front and about 29 in the rear. never had any burps or leaks. i just sold my bike and right now i have a tube setup. i plan to go back to tubeless and use orange sealant again. orange > stans any day IMO.

Posted: Nov 5, 2015 at 17:20 Quote
Plus 1 for Orange seal. I've had a big puncture that stans flowed right through. I had a bigger one later that Orange plugged up with minimal air/sealant loss. When the stans tape needs replacing i will definately try the orange.

O+
Posted: Nov 9, 2015 at 22:01 Quote
Orange works better for punctures, stan's is better for sealing the sidewalls to the rim.

Posted: Nov 11, 2015 at 7:05 Quote
No opinion on Stan's vs Orange Seal, but I'll give the gorilla tape a big thumbs up. I do a lot of tubeless service at work and I've noticed that gorilla tape is tougher and less prone to ripping or being shoved around by the tire beads than other thin tapes. It's heavier and looks yucky, but it works.

O+
Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 8:38 Quote
Until 6 months ago only ran Stan's sealant with their yellow tape and have some observations. Gorilla tape is much better than Stan's tape. Simply line it up over your rim and tear to fit. Stan's tape doesn't conform/stretch to the rim as well so it's more possible for sealant to find it's way in and thus ruin the adhesion. Stan's doesn't cooperate with alloy valve stems like the Specialized ones rendering them useless (they will leak over time). I have had way better luck with the Stan's valve stems and they hold up very well from years of abuse. Despite following directions to the T, for many years, Stan's ALWAYS balls up and dries out inside the tire over 3-6 months. It's also very difficult to remove from the tire should you want to count grams and clean it out to remount. My next bottle of sealant will be Orange just to see if this stays usefull longer. Also, tires and rims are getting so freaking good that less sealant is needed than before.

Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 11:46 Quote
RunsWithScissors wrote:
No opinion on Stan's vs Orange Seal, but I'll give the gorilla tape a big thumbs up. I do a lot of tubeless service at work and I've noticed that gorilla tape is tougher and less prone to ripping or being shoved around by the tire beads than other thin tapes. It's heavier and looks yucky, but it works.
Wierd, with my current rear wheel (Giant carbon) I had to redo the Gorilla tape over and over because it was getting a small cut/tear when I mounted the tire (Nobby Nic which is super tight on that rim) and would not hold air.

Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 16:00 Quote
brianl wrote:
RunsWithScissors wrote:
No opinion on Stan's vs Orange Seal, but I'll give the gorilla tape a big thumbs up. I do a lot of tubeless service at work and I've noticed that gorilla tape is tougher and less prone to ripping or being shoved around by the tire beads than other thin tapes. It's heavier and looks yucky, but it works.
Wierd, with my current rear wheel (Giant carbon) I had to redo the Gorilla tape over and over because it was getting a small cut/tear when I mounted the tire (Nobby Nic which is super tight on that rim) and would not hold air.

How wide are you taping? I used to try to make whatever tape I used go all the way across the rim from flange to flange. I figured that would give a better seal by putting the edges of the tape as far from the spoke holes as possible, and also by trapping the tape edges beneath the tire bead. After taking apart lots of my customers' leaky tubeless wheels I started noticing that there were a lot of them doing the same thing, and I found that the tape had been shoved around and sometimes torn by the tire beads. This made me decide that it's better to just go wide enough to cover the trough in the middle and stay away from the parts of the rim that the tire beads actually ride against. So far, this seems to be a more reliable setup for me. As long as the tape is installed nice and tight and covers the spoke holes that's really all you need.

Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 19:00 Quote
How long are you guys going, or how many rides / park days do you go before you clean and change sealant and change rim tape?

Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 19:08 Quote
Rim tape is going strong after a year. I added some sealant after 6 months. No stans boogers with orange.

Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 19:10 Quote
When i do my next tire change over, or i kill a rim i will re-do the tape just to play it safe.

Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 19:13 Quote
Maybe a little off topic. But I haven't ever changed rims. How do you know when a rim is ready to go?

Posted: Nov 13, 2015 at 22:32 Quote
great thread.

have some questions

does gorilla tape work on hookless carbon rims too ?
how wide should i make the strips ?


.................

what tubeless valve stem has least issues ?

i am even more anxious now to try tubeless after reading this thread tup

Posted: Nov 14, 2015 at 5:43 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
great thread.

have some questions

does gorilla tape work on hookless carbon rims too ?
how wide should i make the strips ?


.................

what tubeless valve stem has least issues ?

i am even more anxious now to try tubeless after reading this thread tup

I haven't tried it on a hookless carbon rim, but I can't think of any reason why that would be a problem.

As for tape width, as I said before, these days I'm a fan of making the tape just wide enough to cover the holes and the trough in the center of the rim, but not wide enough to interact with the tire beads or the surfaces they seat against. Other people may have different opinions.

Regarding valve stems... At the shop I work for we sell WTB TCS valves and they seem to work fine under pretty much any circumstances. I wouldn't hesitate to use them if they were free.

Since I'm a broke ass bike mechanic, I use removable core presta valves that I've salvaged out of old innertubes. I leave about 4-6mm of rubber around the base of the valve and that usually works. If it doesn't seal perfectly on the first try I cut a dime sized disc out of innertube rubber and poke a hole in the center with a sharpened spoke and use it as a gasket between the valve and the rim on the inside. Occasionally I run across a valve that just won't seal where the base of the valve contacts the rim, but very rarely.

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