On another note, finally got season 3 on the Meta started. Felt a little derpy because I've been riding park bike all winter but the hero dirt was amazing. I chopped my bars down to 780 recently but they still felt super wideeee. I might go down to 760... Also rotated them forward a couple degrees, maybe I got taller?(fatter)
I tried futzing with the pike a bit. It had a bit too much preload and was pogo sticking all over the place. I swear the sweet spot on these things is +/- 5psi.. One of those ez ramp up adjusters would be nice but I'm gonna snag one of those blacked out 36s instead. The floatX really transformed the rear of the bike for me, the 36 will be nice on the front.
Anybody ridden a Yeti SB6c that owns a Meta v4.2 or v4? How do they compare, any insight? I was locked in to a v4.2 until a great deal on a used SB6c poped up.
Hey my dudes, has anyone had trouble with warped discs or their brakes on their brand new Meta's. My Meta 4.2 came with Guide R brakes.
When I first put my bike together I noticed an intermittent brake rub on my front brake. I looked at the pistons/brake pads and one of them was slightly rubbing against the disc while the other one was a considerable distance away from the disc.
I tried resetting the calipers (take the wheel out, loosen caliper bolts/screws, hit brake and hold it as I tightened the caliper bolts/screws). My first attempt was to no avail.There was still some intermittent brake rub. So I decided to take the disc out from the wheel/hub. A quick eye inspection showed that the disc wasn't bent. I attached it again (I made sure all bolts were tightened to the corresponding torque). I attempted to reset the caliper again, but now the pistons/brake pads are biting into the disc and do not fully open. The front wheel will not freely spin. It probably rotates twice before it slows down. I took my bike for a ride last weekend to see if maybe I had to wear out the pads a little but it still has the same problem. Can anyone guide me to the right direction here? My last resort will be to take it to my lbs.
Hey my dudes, has anyone had trouble with warped discs or their brakes on their brand new Meta's. My Meta 4.2 came with Guide R brakes.
When I first put my bike together I noticed an intermittent brake rub on my front brake. I looked at the pistons/brake pads and one of them was slightly rubbing against the disc while the other one was a considerable distance away from the disc.
I tried resetting the calipers (take the wheel out, loosen caliper bolts/screws, hit brake and hold it as I tightened the caliper bolts/screws). My first attempt was to no avail.There was still some intermittent brake rub. So I decided to take the disc out from the wheel/hub. A quick eye inspection showed that the disc wasn't bent. I attached it again (I made sure all bolts were tightened to the corresponding torque). I attempted to reset the caliper again, but now the pistons/brake pads are biting into the disc and do not fully open. The front wheel will not freely spin. It probably rotates twice before it slows down. I took my bike for a ride last weekend to see if maybe I had to wear out the pads a little but it still has the same problem. Can anyone guide me to the right direction here? My last resort will be to take it to my lbs.
Follow this video from Hope, starting 2:10 https://vimeo.com/67723111
And it applies for anyone with brakes on which you can access the pads from the top (so not the Shimano brakes with finned pads). And you'll have a perfect lever feel after that
Just started to get abit to much back end wiggle , is it time to replace the linkage bearing ? Bb is newish and wheels are good but if stopped and pressure the crank you can feel abit more play than usual !
Hey my dudes, has anyone had trouble with warped discs or their brakes on their brand new Meta's. My Meta 4.2 came with Guide R brakes.
When I first put my bike together I noticed an intermittent brake rub on my front brake. I looked at the pistons/brake pads and one of them was slightly rubbing against the disc while the other one was a considerable distance away from the disc.
I tried resetting the calipers (take the wheel out, loosen caliper bolts/screws, hit brake and hold it as I tightened the caliper bolts/screws). My first attempt was to no avail.There was still some intermittent brake rub. So I decided to take the disc out from the wheel/hub. A quick eye inspection showed that the disc wasn't bent. I attached it again (I made sure all bolts were tightened to the corresponding torque). I attempted to reset the caliper again, but now the pistons/brake pads are biting into the disc and do not fully open. The front wheel will not freely spin. It probably rotates twice before it slows down. I took my bike for a ride last weekend to see if maybe I had to wear out the pads a little but it still has the same problem. Can anyone guide me to the right direction here? My last resort will be to take it to my lbs.
Follow this video from Hope, starting 2:10 https://vimeo.com/67723111
And it applies for anyone with brakes on which you can access the pads from the top (so not the Shimano brakes with finned pads). And you'll have a perfect lever feel after that
Follow this video from Hope, starting 2:10 https://vimeo.com/67723111
And it applies for anyone with brakes on which you can access the pads from the top (so not the Shimano brakes with finned pads). And you'll have a perfect lever feel after that
So I tried following ever step of this video. ???????? I took the pads out and attempted to clean the pistons carefully with a Qtip. As I was doing so, I pumped the lever for the pistons to retract back and forth. However, they would not move at all. A few more tries on the lever resulted in a piston blowing out and DOT squirting right out. Now none of the pistons move. I cleaned the caliper as good as possible and put the piston back to its place but now hitting the lever results in nothing moving. Is it a bad thing I put my bike upside down while I was trying to fix this? Because other than that, I don't think I did anything wrong....????????
A tip to make the pistons go out 1 by 1 (or 2 by 2 for a 4pot caliper) is to put like a 6-7mm spanner between 2 pistons (and jam it by twisting it sideways), and then pump slowly on the lever.
What happened with yours was a piston was definitely stuck, and, well, you unstuck it. Unfortunately, loosing some DOT fluid at the same time ... If you have a bleed kit, do it, otherwise take it to the lbs.
As for the video, I pointed out the 2:10 mark on the video, where the guy aligns the caliper, and then proceeds to "align" the pads with the rotor by forcing out/in pistons.
Just started to get abit to much back end wiggle , is it time to replace the linkage bearing ? Bb is newish and wheels are good but if stopped and pressure the crank you can feel abit more play than usual !
Just started to get abit to much back end wiggle , is it time to replace the linkage bearing ? Bb is newish and wheels are good but if stopped and pressure the crank you can feel abit more play than usual !
Anyone ?
Not too sure bud, I always have a lot of flex in the rear wheel even directly after replacing bearings etc.
However if I notice there is actually a bit of play in the rear wheel I normally tighten the adjuster on my mavic hub and then clamp up the rear Maxle a little more.
Just started to get abit to much back end wiggle , is it time to replace the linkage bearing ? Bb is newish and wheels are good but if stopped and pressure the crank you can feel abit more play than usual !
Anyone ?
Not too sure bud, I always have a lot of flex in the rear wheel even directly after replacing bearings etc.
However if I notice there is actually a bit of play in the rear wheel I normally tighten the adjuster on my mavic hub and then clamp up the rear Maxle a little more.