YT Capra Owners

Author Message
flag jhutchens
Posted: Dec 21, 2017 at 8:11 Quote
Has anyone fitted a hope pf46 to a Capra pro, I seem to have gained about ten mm width on my chain line ??
flag Ferisko
Posted: Dec 21, 2017 at 10:55 Quote
jhutchens wrote:
Has anyone fitted a hope pf46 to a Capra pro, I seem to have gained about ten mm width on my chain line ??

I did.

Do you have SRAM crankset? In that case you need the short PF46 BBPF467330SSNS and not the wider one.

Narrow one:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sk/en/hope-pf46-press-fit-30mm-sram-bottom-bracket/rp-prod128185

The one you probably installed:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sk/en/hope-pf46-press-fit-stainless-bottom-bracket/rp-prod118541

edit:
hope chart http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/BB-Selection-Table_Iss-5_09-2015.pdf
flag bob-the-fish
O+
Posted: Dec 21, 2017 at 12:32 Quote
Like some other users on here, I had an issue with not being able to remove my E13 TRS+ cranks from my 2017 YT Capra CF Pro. I thought I would share my experience in case anyone else has the same problem. I tried to remove the crankset after having the bike for about 3 months so that I could lube the BB and check the pivot bearings.

I ordered the 1-degree crank removal tool from E-Thirteen (didn't come with the bike which would have been handy). When I tried to remove the cranks the thread pulled out and the cranks didn't move.

I tried contacting YT Canada about possible warranty support since the cranks seemed to be seized on and they came installed on the bike. As with other attempts to contact YT Canada, I didn't get a response to multiple emails, their customer service is terrible. I then tried contacting YT USA (run by the Zink brothers at that time) and they got back to me quickly and said to talk to E-Thirteen directly. When I talked to E13 (aka The Hive), they were super helpful, very quick to respond and all round awesome guys. They got me to send in the serial numbers from the cranks and then asked me to remove the cranks so they could work out what needed replacing (details below). They didn't ever say if they thought it was a manufacturing defect or incorrect installation by YT, but they offered to replace the cranks right away which I thought was brilliant.


To get the cranks off this is what I tried:
1. I tried fitting an automotive puller but there isn't enough of an edge on the non-pedal end of the crank for the puller to grab onto due to the shape of the cranks and the APS ring.
2. Went for a ride (about an hour) with the crank retaining bolt removed to see if they would come loose. I picked a rough trail but the cranks were still seized at the end.
3. Tried heating them with a blowtorch and then riding up a steep hill (maximum torque) with retaining bolt removed.
4. I tried making a custom puller that would hold the E13 crank removal tool in place using angle steel. I've attached a photo, unfortunately the steel bent rather then the cranks coming loose. If I had access to a welder I could have boxed in the end of the angle steel to make it stiffer, but after attempt 6 I think I discovered that wouldn't have solved the problem.
Custom E13 crank removal tool after threads stripped out.
5. I tried drilling a hole through the cranks and inserting a pin (i.e. a small screwdriver) across the crank removal bolt and then winding out the crank removal bolt out using a long extension bar with an allen key attachment passing through the drive side crank. Again I've attached a photo. You can see from the close up photo that the pin bent a bit, but once it was wedged in place and neither it or the crank would yield, then the crank removal bolt face started shearing off. I think this shows just how seized on the cranks were. I had to apply a lot of torque to get the crank removal bolt to turn. Putting some lube on the face of the crank removal bolt might have stopped it from shearing but I doubt it.
E13 TRS crank removal take 6

photo

6. In the end I cut the cranks off using a dremel.

The replacement cranks arrived in less than a week and I'm back on the bike. I can't say enough about how helpful E13 were, I will definitely buy their stuff in the future.
flag Ferisko
Posted: Dec 21, 2017 at 13:27 Quote
Unfortunately this is not the first seized e13 crank set story like this I heard and they usually end up with an angle grinder.

After my experience with their products i put e13 on a permanent blacklist and won't buy anything from them or any bike that carries their products. For example, I had an issue with the 2nd generation rear hub on the e13 wheels that came with my Capra. The bearing preload adjustment repeatedly kept tightening it self while riding to the point where the wheel bearings would start to noticeably drag. It got sorted under warranty by YT (on 2nd try) but still very annoying. Then two months later the freehub started to slip because, supposedly, they had a faulty batch of weak pawl springs and I had to get a replacement set (and I wasn't the only one so getting a hold of them in Europe was major challenge)... I got fed up and got my self a pair of DT EX1501's and the e13 wheels are collecting dust up stairs since I just don't have the conscience to pass those POS's to another unfortunate soul. The seizing cranks are another known issue that's been dragging out for a while now. Then there is the weak springs in their new droppers... the list goes on.

Their warranty support on your side of the Atlantic might be good, but their products just have too many quirks and weirdo issues they just should not have in the first place. And they always need at least 3 product revisions/generations to make the issues go away. Hope your new crankset stays trouble free, but I got my doubts.
flag solajdu
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 2:44 Quote
I've been having issues while shifting with the smallest 3-4 cogs (1x11 GX).
Put the hanger alignment tool on and sure enough it's out of alignment.
Aluminium hangers don't really like being bent but gave it a go anyways.
Gentle nudges don't do a thing to these hangers and when I tried a bit more force it cracked.
Put on a new spare hanger only to find out that it's also misaligned. What gives?
I've also noticed that the derailleur doesn't sit flush with the hanger when installed, almost seems like the B-screw plate and/or screw is bent.
I'll take the derailleur screw and back plate off today and take a look (I hear it's a bitch to get the split ring back on).
Anyone experienced anything like this?
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 7:11 Quote
Can someone tell me what I've missed here!! It's driving me nuts. I've been trying to get this bike built from the frame up and have really enjoyed building it but this last thing is driving me nuts. I'me trying to put new xt m8000's on it and I've bodged this with lockrings from tube valves for now. Have I got the wrong adaptor? It said Shimano 203 for 160pm.
Help!!!!
photo
flag pugster007
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 8:11 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
Can someone tell me what I've missed here!! It's driving me nuts. I've been trying to get this bike built from the frame up and have really enjoyed building it but this last thing is driving me nuts. I'me trying to put new xt m8000's on it and I've bodged this with lockrings from tube valves for now. Have I got the wrong adaptor? It said Shimano 203 for 160pm.
Help!!!!
photo

Looks right ? why did you add the spacers ?
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 8:29 Quote
pugster007 wrote:
toby9843 wrote:
Can someone tell me what I've missed here!! It's driving me nuts. I've been trying to get this bike built from the frame up and have really enjoyed building it but this last thing is driving me nuts. I'me trying to put new xt m8000's on it and I've bodged this with lockrings from tube valves for now. Have I got the wrong adaptor? It said Shimano 203 for 160pm.
Help!!!!
photo

Looks right ? why did you add the spacers ?

The wheel wouldn't turn. It'd spin maybe the distance between the notches on the rotor and then bump up against something inside the caliper.
flag code26
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 8:34 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
Can someone tell me what I've missed here!! It's driving me nuts. I've been trying to get this bike built from the frame up and have really enjoyed building it but this last thing is driving me nuts. I'me trying to put new xt m8000's on it and I've bodged this with lockrings from tube valves for now. Have I got the wrong adaptor? It said Shimano 203 for 160pm.
Help!!!!
photo

I don't think I've ever had an adapter that had the writing on the outside like that. Look funky and wrong to me.
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 8:36 Quote
motoxxxer26 wrote:
toby9843 wrote:
Can someone tell me what I've missed here!! It's driving me nuts. I've been trying to get this bike built from the frame up and have really enjoyed building it but this last thing is driving me nuts. I'me trying to put new xt m8000's on it and I've bodged this with lockrings from tube valves for now. Have I got the wrong adaptor? It said Shimano 203 for 160pm.
Help!!!!
photo

I don't think I've ever had an adapter that had the writing on the outside like that. Look funky and wrong to me.

Well unless I'm missing something obvious (which is usually the case) then I think this is the right adapter. Unless CRC are lying to me lol.
flag jakebeach1996
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 10:12 Quote
Think the forks are 180 standard, so you’d need a 180 to 200 and not 160.
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 10:34 Quote
jakebeach1996 wrote:
Think the forks are 180 standard, so you’d need a 180 to 200 and not 160.

I think you might be right mate. Damn hard to find any gen on it though. I'll get one and try it.
flag ChukChuk
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 13:00 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
jakebeach1996 wrote:
Think the forks are 180 standard, so you’d need a 180 to 200 and not 160.

I think you might be right mate. Damn hard to find any gen on it though. I'll get one and try it.

I just checked and my forks are 160 (using a hope C mount).
Also if the forks had a bigger spacing than you originally thought then surely it would spin freely?

I think you should check the spacer.
flag amonas
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 13:09 Quote
you d better add the spacers after the adapter....(if you need them)
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 22, 2017 at 13:16 Quote
ChukChuk wrote:
toby9843 wrote:
jakebeach1996 wrote:
Think the forks are 180 standard, so you’d need a 180 to 200 and not 160.

I think you might be right mate. Damn hard to find any gen on it though. I'll get one and try it.

I just checked and my forks are 160 (using a hope C mount).
Also if the forks had a bigger spacing than you originally thought then surely it would spin freely?

I think you should check the spacer.

It seems that I need an 2nd adapter that goes between the one I have in the picture and the fork. I've ordered one and I'll post a pic once it's on if that works. I would've thought there'd be a bit more guidance on this online but I guess it's a learning process lol.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.023853
Mobile Version of Website