I've got a 2013 Pike RCT3 solo air and I'm wondering if it's possible to convert it from 26 to 650b by ordering new lowers. I figure the cost of new lowers would be less than the difference of me selling may pike and buying a new one. However if I gotta buy a new dampener and uppers than I might as well just sell my 26" pike. From what I understand the uppers have different offsets but I don't think I'd let that stop me. The dampener though has different part numbers for 26 and 650b and that might stop me however I'm not sure what the actual difference is. My air shaft is marked 26 160 and 650b 150 so I should be able to use it.
I have a question for any suspension people out there. I was told I could lower my 2011 rockshox Lyrik from 170 to 150mm. How possible is this? Also I'm having a hard time finding an air shaft specific to the Lyrik, can I use a pike air shaft instead?
I'm not sure how possible this is but the guy who gave me the Lyrik is a friend who's been riding for something like 15 years and he's been doing his own mechanic work for a long time. The forks going on a 2011 giant reign which was designed with a 150mm fork in mind. Hoping not to have to raise it 10mm
I've got a 2013 Pike RCT3 solo air and I'm wondering if it's possible to convert it from 26 to 650b by ordering new lowers. I figure the cost of new lowers would be less than the difference of me selling may pike and buying a new one. However if I gotta buy a new dampener and uppers than I might as well just sell my 26" pike. From what I understand the uppers have different offsets but I don't think I'd let that stop me. The dampener though has different part numbers for 26 and 650b and that might stop me however I'm not sure what the actual difference is. My air shaft is marked 26 160 and 650b 150 so I should be able to use it.
Running "formula the one" disc brake on front with a 203mm rotor and keep getting this awful metallic scraping noise like a pad is drifting over and just scraping the surface of the disc right after a jump or drop off. It's intermittent not constant. Any ideas? Driving me nuts!
Formula brakes often do this, it's just due to the extremely fine pad clearance they have. Check your rotor is true and your caliper straight. Reset the pistons if you want and realign the caliper. I spent about two hours trying to line it up perfectly, got it silent, and ten minutes later it's back! It's an annoying sound but mine only do it while pushing, never when riding.
I have a question for any suspension people out there. I was told I could lower my 2011 rockshox Lyrik from 170 to 150mm. How possible is this? Also I'm having a hard time finding an air shaft specific to the Lyrik, can I use a pike air shaft instead?
I'm not sure how possible this is but the guy who gave me the Lyrik is a friend who's been riding for something like 15 years and he's been doing his own mechanic work for a long time. The forks going on a 2011 giant reign which was designed with a 150mm fork in mind. Hoping not to have to raise it 10mm
Thanks!
The older lyrik has a spacer to adjust the travel.
It's a 10mm spacer that goes on the air spring shaft to adjust from 170 to 160mm If you can get two and put them in, it should work.
Running "formula the one" disc brake on front with a 203mm rotor and keep getting this awful metallic scraping noise like a pad is drifting over and just scraping the surface of the disc right after a jump or drop off. It's intermittent not constant. Any ideas? Driving me nuts!
Formula brakes often do this, it's just due to the extremely fine pad clearance they have. Check your rotor is true and your caliper straight. Reset the pistons if you want and realign the caliper. I spent about two hours trying to line it up perfectly, got it silent, and ten minutes later it's back! It's an annoying sound but mine only do it while pushing, never when riding.
Thanks iffy and oldmandan, definitely not rubbing on anything except the pads but it just sounds like one of the pads drifts out and scrapes sometimes, only when I'm riding rough and it goes if I squeeze the brake lightly... I'll have to check if maybe the pass aren't seated correctly. I have had to true the rotor a number of times I think the 203mm disk warps from heat build up too easily, I'm going to invest in an ice cooling fin rotor from superstar maybe...
Just use the GX Rear Mech that will work with any 11sp sram cassette and the pull ratios from an 11sp NX shifter should be the same as a GX shifter. If you're mixing and matching you might as well use the GX rear mech was my suggestion. And while it may just be me but I didnt notice the weight reduction when I upgraded my cassette I personally think cassette weight is stupid.
NX will work with any 11 speed mountain cassette
the whole point of getting nx is to save money as there is almost no weight savings and it shifts the same, plus it has a 3rd Gen clutch. And you'll save like 20 bucks.
All Shimano 11 speed mountain and Sram 11 speed mountain is cross compatible, no matter the model. So cassettes and cranks from both brands work with others. You can't mix and match shifters between brands.
You won't feel the difference from just a lighter cassette but it adds to the total weight of your bike and is a great place to save weight.plus they usually shift better.
Thanks for that. The trance is already a really light bike (considering i used to own a Big Hit 1 FSR) so i don't really mind about the weight, but it would be good to save weight.
I think ill just get the XT M8000 cassette, then the NX mech, NX shifter and the 11 speed chain. $317 posted to me from Jenson.
Could you confirm that this looks right please and that it will all work right together? https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/14082010/
My other option is to buy a full groupset that i will also get cranks with for $300aud posted, except it's used.
You'll need to run a kmc or shimano chai with that cassette as the sram one is not compatible. I recommend the kmc they have a quick link.
Shimano chains are asymmetrical to catch the upshift and down shift ramps correctly. It will work much better with a Shimano chain than anyone else's chain.
Edit: and for the guy lowering a lyrik, you can lower them as much as you want. I have mine down to 90mm on my hardtail. The old ones use travel spacers instead of a new air shaft.
Shimano chains are asymmetrical to catch the upshift and down shift ramps correctly. It will work much better with a Shimano chain than anyone else's chain.
Edit: and for the guy lowering a lyrik, you can lower them as much as you want. I have mine down to 90mm on my hardtail. The old ones use travel spacers instead of a new air shaft.
Ive been using a Sram chain , I'll pick up a shitmano as the next one and see how it does.
Shimano chains are asymmetrical to catch the upshift and down shift ramps correctly. It will work much better with a Shimano chain than anyone else's chain.
Edit: and for the guy lowering a lyrik, you can lower them as much as you want. I have mine down to 90mm on my hardtail. The old ones use travel spacers instead of a new air shaft.
Not true. Shimano was having problems with people putting asymmetrical chains on backwards and complaining about shift performance, even some companies were putting them on backwards on their complete bikes.
Since the introduction of XTR M9000 Shimano stopped using asymmetrical chains across all models. If you have a new chain at home you'll notice every other link on the chain has the logo upside down to show that it's symmetrical. Unless you bought old stock or keep chains laying around its not likely you'll find a Shimano asymmetrical chain.