Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag millpill
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 14:41 Quote
ArchieDH wrote:
Hi, can some one tell me what i need to get the crank off on my Race face chester? is it simply pull off once I've taken the nut out or do i need a crank puller? cheers
It should have a self extracting bolt that is 8mm with a 10mm cap. If it doesn't, you probably beed a crank puller.

Should be one of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/race-face-x-type-self-extracting-crank-cap/rp-prod19135?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwyoCrBRCl-aa97pKX_t8BEiQAbrs_9E0emNfGCDQCig-6uBGDvuIsDOb4xwNPpI38oWUl_R4aAhwJ8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
flag tom666
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 15:06 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
tom666 wrote:
manchicken wrote:
Hammer. And to remove the bearings, a piece of bar combined with the use of a hammer

I did have a go with a hammer and some wd40 but to no avail.

I guess I'd better just try again

Support the frame well, close to the bb, otherwise a lot of your effort is wasted just twanging the frame about. This isn't great for the frame either.

As with all BMX technology, if hitting it with a hammer doesn't work, try hitting it harder. Put something like a bit of wood between the hammer and the end of the axle to stop the axle getting smashed up. Plusgas is a good idea. Like wd40 but better.

The bearings have probably rusted onto the axle. This can be an absolute bastard to sort. One thing you could try if all else fails is this:

Remove the bearing seal from one side. You should now be able to see the ball bearings, held in a ball retainer cage.

Using long nose pliers, grab the ball retainer and yank it out. You will have to mangle it to get it out. Don't worry about that as you are replacing it anyway. Try and remove the whole retainer. You may have to poke some bits into the bb shell. You can remove them once the bearing is out.

With the retainer removed you should be able to push all the balls round to one side of the bearing, and then pull them out of the bearing. This will leave the inner race stuck to your axle, and the outer race stuck in your frame

Now you can resume hammering the end of the axle, and hopefully push the other bearing out of the frame quite easily. This leaves just one bearing outer race stuck in your frame. This will probably be a bitch to remove.

If you are lucky, the shoulder the bearing race sits against inside the bb shell will have a little groove in it, so that you can just knock the bearing shell out with a hammer and screwdriver. If you are unlucky, your frame designers were not clever enough to put this groove in. Now you are really buggered. You can try with a hammer and flat bladed screwdriver.

If this doesnt work, you will probably have to cut two slots in the outer bearing race with a dremel. Be VERY careful not to cut into your frame. Do however try to cut as far through the bearing race as possible. When you have done 2 slots, hit it some more with the hammer and screwdriver. Hopefully one of the slots will crack, and the shell will become fairly loose in the frame.

Thank you for this man Salute
flag arvboy
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 15:10 Quote
thanks so much! Smile

millpill wrote:
ArchieDH wrote:
Hi, can some one tell me what i need to get the crank off on my Race face chester? is it simply pull off once I've taken the nut out or do i need a crank puller? cheers
It should have a self extracting bolt that is 8mm with a 10mm cap. If it doesn't, you probably beed a crank puller.

Should be one of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/race-face-x-type-self-extracting-crank-cap/rp-prod19135?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwyoCrBRCl-aa97pKX_t8BEiQAbrs_9E0emNfGCDQCig-6uBGDvuIsDOb4xwNPpI38oWUl_R4aAhwJ8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
flag Gorran
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 17:49 Quote
Hi guys, I am looking to replace the headset on an old second hand dirt jump bike but am struggling with what to pick. The headtube internal diameter is 33.8mm and the fork I have to go with it is 1 and 1/8 inch can anyone suggest anything?
cheers
flag debonis
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 18:00 Quote
Gorran wrote:
Hi guys, I am looking to replace the headset on an old second hand dirt jump bike but am struggling with what to pick. The headtube internal diameter is 33.8mm and the fork I have to go with it is 1 and 1/8 inch can anyone suggest anything?
cheers

you need an EC34mm headset.
flag krystiancameron
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 18:42 Quote
Would caustic soda be the easiest way to get chrome plating of a bmx rim odyessy hazard lite to be specific used it to get anodising off rims and stems before but don't know if it will work with chrome ?
flag vancity
O+
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 21:17 Quote
Hello, I am on a 2015 Reigh with a DebonAir Shock - when I look down at the shock from a birds eye perspective, the 'arms' of the shock seem to be slightly asymmetrical. In the photo,this is displayed by the blue arms that can be seen.

photo

I was curious if this is the way the bike is engineered, or if there is something going on here? I can't find any signs of bent parts.
flag millpill
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 21:38 Quote
So I've decided that I need to ghetto mod my hub. I need to drill out my endcaps from a 5mm QR to 10mm thru. It's a laserdisc hub, so there are 2 endcaps, one permanantly pressed into the axle, one as a press fit. There's a but that sticks out that sits in the frame, and I think that that would be a pretty good reference point for drilling straight. My problem is that 10mm drill bits are a little difficult to find and the one that I found ships to me in 2 months. (ain't nobody got time for that) Is 3/8in (9.58mm) close enough? My 10mm i9s are pretty much a slip-fit, but Ive had a 10mm spesh wheel and that had a little bit of play between the axle and the hub interface. Whaddya guys think?



Anyone have access to a lathe or something and wanna help a brotha out? Wink
flag angry-sasquatch
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 22:23 Quote
vancity wrote:
Hello, I am on a 2015 Reigh with a DebonAir Shock - when I look down at the shock from a birds eye perspective, the 'arms' of the shock seem to be slightly asymmetrical. In the photo,this is displayed by the blue arms that can be seen.

photo

I was curious if this is the way the bike is engineered, or if there is something going on here? I can't find any signs of bent parts.
That's how they're made.
flag hambee-enchurbro
Posted: May 23, 2015 at 23:14 Quote
angry-sasquatch wrote:
vancity wrote:
Hello, I am on a 2015 Reigh with a DebonAir Shock - when I look down at the shock from a birds eye perspective, the 'arms' of the shock seem to be slightly asymmetrical. In the photo,this is displayed by the blue arms that can be seen.

photo

I was curious if this is the way the bike is engineered, or if there is something going on here? I can't find any signs of bent parts.
That's how they're made.
flag jackstack
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 0:05 Quote
Yeah they are made like that my last bike had the same thing going on
flag bigburd
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 1:06 Quote
Maybe it's to make room for a chain guide?
flag hambee-enchurbro
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 1:15 Quote
Quick question re brakes:

on descents (particularly uplifting today) when grabbing a lot of brakes I was finding I had no power..

Is this because the rotor's are getting too hot?

Brakes are Shimano SLX with SLX rotors
flag bigburd
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 1:45 Quote
Pads could be glazed , does the lever still feel solid ?

 


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