First Look: Lindarets ReMount Remote Dropper Adapter

 yeah, and it's plastic, so just saw off the extra once you get the position situated.

 Yeah I don't get that. If you are hitting your knee off this then you are on the wrong size bike to start with...

 Maybe they have large knees?

 Then they'd need a large frame.

 And really large knee pads

 It's not about frame size, sometimes if you're riding really hard in rowdy terrain, your knee just hits the bars.

 ^ I can see that on really techy and steep loose climbs where you may slip out or end up in an awkward position while standing up, basically having most of your weight towards the front but I feel that in any other situation, you should never be in a position where your knees hit the bars. If you are, something is wrong whether its the frame size or riding style.

 Maybe they are doing tuck no handers or sweet barhumps?

 ^ I thought about including that, then thought not many do those with dropper posts... if they do, that means they're awesome.

 maybe a quadruple truck driver.

 I refer you to the last picture. Shifters are flat bottomed. This is a barrel with edges pointing back at your knees. Bars are wider and bikes are longer but when you go over the bars you still pass it.....

 @ilovedust at which point just jabbing your knee on the post is the best case scenario!

 When you've hauled on the bars to slam/hop up some waist high technical rocks, your knees or legs hit the bars sometimes, no reasonable sized frame is going to change that.

 @foghorn1 : In other words, you've found an edge case. A scenario where that may indeed be a problem. However, it's a scenario that's likely to happen to very few as most aren't hopping waist high rocks on XC or AM bikes.

 KS remote with an internally routed doss would be perfect

 Especially if you pair with a lock on grip to save space

 The grip lock combo is by far the best for my hand. I think lever position and style is like a helmet, more of personal preference.

 Oh look, Spam!

 haha @annnaruby I also make $30 over and over again. It's called a paycheck.

 anyone want free money? kill some spammers, I'll pay you

 Mods already got him. Thanks mods

 KS lever is like $50, no?

 ^maybr you shouldn't be so hard on your shit... The reverb lever blows, it's not even a lever just a button!

 Agreed the Reverb lever does blow...never again, I've never had a single issue with my KS.

 i dunno. i replaced the KS lever with a crank bros remote which actually emulates a front shifter the best, and it has a good barrel adjuster. the extended reach and light action of the CB remote is much better than the oem KS, plus you can mount the CB in any position, left or right side, top or bottom:

www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/2012-crank-brothers-kronolog-drop-seatpost4.jpg

 You're saying I shouldn't sit on my saddle while I'm on a long climb? The first ride I had it on, it started to sad and act like a suspension post. rebuilt it and was able to get a few rides in over the winter. Then the actuator line inside the post got stretched and the post wouldn't go down. I replaced that the other day and now it appears to be working, but I haven't taken it for a ride yet. I've probably only had 4-5 days riding on it (less than 20 hours I'd guess).

If I felt it was just an issue only I was having, then I wouldn't have made that comment. There's a 19 page thread over on mtbr with lots of other folks with the same issues. Plus if you look at a lot of the reviews online you'll see the same issues. Maybe it was the older versions, but I'm not the only one.

Like I said, I do like the lever. Its nice and small and easy to reach, especially when mounted on the grip. But when the post isn't working, who cars how nice the lever is. I've not had an issue with the Reverb button or post, so in my OPINION I like it.

 Cuban-b, when I first installed my KS I was too lazy about removing my Kronolog Remote and used it with my KS. It was awesome. But When I added the front shifter I had to lose it. I may try this though.

 you can install the CB remote above the front shifter. lets go to summit soon.

 Yeah jojo, I'm definitely saying you shouldn't sit down on a climb... Nail on the head... Putting words in people's mouth to make a point pretty much loses you all credibility.

 My point is that I'm not hard on a seat post. I sit on it. Even when I store it in the garage, I leave the seat fully extended so there's no additional pressure on the seals. I don't pick up the bike by the seat unless the post is fully extended.

 I've been doing the same setup for a few years now works great

 Jojo you're definately not alone, my ks is a piece of shit, it s been rebuilt twice already and hasn't seen that much use, my buddy had the same issues. When someone says they haven't had any issues with their ks I feel like they either don't use it enough, or they're lying, or they have amazing luck and got the 1 out of 100 ks posts that actually works

 @laerz I rebuilt my lev it was a tricky thing to get right even as an engineer. Had to find 1mm kevlar string for inside too. But had it over 2.5 years and it's still running great with just that one strip clean and regrease.

 I'm torn right now. One the one hand, I hope I have that same experience and it lasts. On the other hand, I kind of want to sell it now that its working. I just think it'll be a case of the grass always being greener. There's always the potential for issues no matter what hydraulic adjustable post you're looking at.

 my buddy demo'd a scott spark 700 this weekend that has stuff, they are calling it twinloc level system. didn't look too cluttered on the handlebars and he really seemed to like it.

 Look at it: p.vitalmtb.com/photos/stories/2013/06/04/max_Remote_575409.jpg?1370405509
It's gross. I don't want that anywhere near my Rune.

 That twinloc will break in days mounted that high up, what are they thinking?

 Supposedly, Di2 has built in capability designed to do exactly what you want, including dropping a dropper post. Haven't seen it in the wild yet, though. Twinloc is a standard DT swiss part, works on any bike with DT Swiss front & back. Scott just specs it stock, since they buy a custom shock from DT already.

 Just open up a front derailleur trigger shifter and remove the springs and the ratchet.

 We put a probe on an asteroid, and can't come up with better MTB control ergonomics...?

 Jerome uses GripShift to control his suspension. www.pinkbike.com/news/jerome-clementzs-2015-cannondale-jekyll-bike-check.html

 Well, if nothing else, that one is far sexier.

 That'll be me :-)

 @deesta well done! Really nice work. Been following the thread and really wanting one but I just spent my last bike budget cash on a Thomson dropper . Maybe next month if there'll be another batch.

 @deesta, got any left ?

 @pigman65 no, all gone but looking to do another batch if there's enough interest

 I can't find or see the picture in the link.

 Have a look at the link in the 1st post on the link above :-)

 Two wildly different fields of engineering though. Even Specialized essentially just copied SRAMs lever for that new one.

 Studiotran is right. If the entire industry can produce boost and + bikes to their lineup in one season, They can make better dropper remotes the season after everybody ditched the front derailleur. It's an opportunity missed by almost all the big players. This product is goofy and clunky, and won't stand the test of time. Their time would've been better spent making an actual lever, that matches the feel of sram or shimano, or both.

 I know everybody loves to hate the Big Red S but that is exactly what they did this season. They made an under the bar 'shifter' style dropper control. Works great. Sram too....

 We felt vindicated when Spez's new remote came out- it was almost as though their original lever was designed to be turned on its side. It's super-clean with SRAM brakes (or Shimano brakes and Problem Solvers Matchmaker mounts).

 Thanks BBP!

 I knee'd one of these..

 Yup. Just take out the return spring on the shifter. Job done. I dig the name of this product tho. Lindarets is the valley between Morzine and Chatel. It's got some rad trail of it's own.

 That's our iffy

 this is what I have. It works well, and is kinda matchy-matchy with the rear shifter on the other side of the bars. repurpose your abandoned front shifters and move on

 That was actually our starting point- wanting the remote to sit where the shifter does/did. Unfortunately, the shifter hack doesn’t work with Thomson (or Giant) remotes, as their cable barrel is at the post end and not everyone has a shifter that they’re willing to hack.

We ended up with the current design as it allows the user to put the remote right where the shifter paddle once was, accommodates most of the cable-actuated posts on the market, and doesn’t require new cable/housing/etc.- it really is a quick install.

The shifter hack is a good one- but we feel like we captured all of its benefits while adding some of our own.

 the more you know... (da da da-dahhhhhhhh and that shooting star shoots by)

I used an old X9 shifter. It's silver and bigger than the black xx1 shifter on the other side. It's only matchy-matchy in that it's SRAM. That's enough for me, but I'm not mad at the one pictured. Definitely way better than anything on top of a bar.

 The X-fusion lever is the same as the original Maverick Speedball and CB Joplin levers....

 Exactly, why not just cut down a bar end, plastic end plug in the end, job done. I'm sure there's plenty of old barends just lying around doing nothing these days?

 In fancy colors also. And they come in pairs... have multiple bikes with droppers or a buddy who runs a dropper also and complains about where the remote is? Find a pair of bar ends you like and split the price between you.

 Jimo,

Not a bad idea, but you'd be surprised at how close the bar diameter has to be to 22.2mm for certain remotes to clamp properly- we had some protos come in .5mm undersized (which translates to ~1.5mm in circumference) and the Thomson clamps would bottom out before tightening.

 Mattin, Thanks! We're trying to build stuff in the first world at prices that make sense- so far, so good!

 ^ if slipping on the bar is a plus, then yes.

 Mtnr, it does? I wanted one to replace the oem ks lever before reading you comment.

 AiTHORX, no issues whatsoever with my southpaw on an aluminum bar. I much prefer the southpaw over the oem...

 Yeah no issues slipping whatsoever, even on tapered bars.

 FWIW: Mtnr isn't the only person I've seen complain about the southpaw moving, & the design of the clamp sure doesn't fill me with confidence. Do some googling, look what problems people are having, before you drop chedda.

 We like the KS Southpaw a lot- but (slipping aside) it doesn't work with droppers that have the barrel at the post end- and costs twice as much. Before choosing Delrin, which will do a better job of protecting handlebars, we considered a polished alloy version- I'm a sucker for shiny things.

 Fair enough, the KS is definitely on the expensive side for what you get but we have never experienced any of these issues. It's great to see options for under the bar shifter style.

 Just tested a bike with the KS Southpaw - had to smack it with a hammer to re-shape the clamp in order to keep it from slipping and rotating away from my thumb. If KS made vacuum cleaners, I would be very interested.

 Had to put a strip of sand paper between the clamp and cut small grooves into the clamp itself to get enough grip and tighten it so much I was getting worried that I'd crush the Dam bar. Stays put now. It's just because of the smooth finish of carbon bars and the clamp combined. But as far as function and looks, it brilliant. I'd still buy one. Standard ks stuby levers are horrible.

 I'm curious why you didn't put this info as a review? Comparing the remount to other similar brands would be useful to the consumer would it not?

 I run a KS LEV with a southpaw lever on renthal carbon bars mounted with carbon paste , I have ZERO problem with it slipping......
100% better to use than the old reverb i had which broke.......

 pedro46: Does it make difference that carbon paste on a carbon fatbar? I have slippery problems with my brake levers (Avid) too. I solved them tightening the lever clamps more than i would like to do...

 deeeight,

We did play with the Profile a bit- but it's not designed to stay put with the amount of force a dropper remote (especially one with an old or dry cable) can exert. They're also centered on the bar, which means that the remote sits closer to the rider than is ideal. Their mounting system is tidy, though...

 Done that with Reverb remote mounted under bars - 70$ for remote, 15$ for plaster and iodine

 Lycra ftw

 plus it works with SRAM's MatchMaker...

 Those 3 clamps in a row makes me want to punch whoever did it in the face.

 The Reverb is a hydraulic dropper post, that's why.

 Hmm...

 I got one printing currently on my makerbot.

 So you must run a ss to avoid whacking your knee on your shifter?

 Then say congrats to Specialized.

 Since it us plastic you could just trim it flush once you find the position you like.

 I think if you trim the end off you lose the integral end cap, the structural integrity of the tube will be compromised and it might just crush when you tighten the clamp of the remote. Kinda like soft fleshy bits with a hose clamp around it. Not recommended.

 Orangesicle, You're OK to trim the end of the ReMount- it's not a tube and can be cut to length without compromising the stub. Just cut using a standard guide and knock the sharp edges off with a file.

 It is definitely not a tube, you can see how it is molded. Good idea and pretty cheap.

 Awesome customer service already! Sorry. My Bad. I can see the structure clearly. As much as I love cnc aluminum bits, this is a well thought out problem solver. Nice.

 Orangesicle,

You bet! I'm with you on the shiny bits- and there will be more metal from us before long. CNC would actually have been a lot easier (and probably a little cheaper) for us- but I just wasn't thrilled with the possibility of scoring a carbon bar inboard of the grip. Delrin is pretty bomber, good to stupid-cold temps, and is a lot more friendly to the bar.