If there's one component that needs improving, it's dropper seat posts. Sure, most of them work well enough when they're functioning properly, but it's that bit about how long they stay functioning that gets annoying. That said, I'd take a troublesome dropper post that I have to get repaired every few months over a seat stuck up my ass during the entirety of every ride, and anyone who tells you different either spends most of their time riding a cross-country race bike in Florida or hasn't given one a shot. So, to answer your question, the dropper post that has given me the absolute least amount of troubles is FOX's post. The D.O.S.S. simply goes and goes, and while it might be one of the heavier options on the market, its reliability makes me overlook that fact. It's not without its foibles, however, as its remote really only works well when it's mounted under the bar on the left side in place of the shifter, and there is also a sometimes annoying knock at the top of its stroke. What about the KS post? I sure do like the stationary cable entry point on the outer tube, but I've seen enough reliability issues that I'd spring for the heavier D.O.S.S. every time. - Mike Levy |
Sintered metallic pads are the better choice over resin or "organic" pads because they stop with more authority, last much longer and are more consistent feeling between wet and dry conditions. Metallic pads, however, make lots of noise and while a slight rub on the rotor creates almost no friction, the sound drives some riders nuts. Brake manufacturers love organic pads because they make little or no noise when the rotors drag, which fools most riders into believing that their brakes are perfectly aligned and never rub. Organic brake pads require more squeeze to stop the bike, so they don't hit hard and thus provide ham-fisted riders more leeway before the wheels lock up. Once you get used to the harder hitting metallic pads, though, you will find that they modulate with a much more consistent feel. As far as wear goes; I have burned through a set of resin pads during one race weekend in wet conditions, while the same brake brand, fitted with metallic pads, showed only a bit more than normal wear on the same course. Metallic pads conduct heat better than organic ones, so there will be more heat transferred to the caliper pistons when compared with organic pads. The ceramic pistons in Shimano's Zee calipers are very heat resistant, so that should never be a problem. Sintered pads' heat transfer issues, however, may be nullified by the fact that the extra power that metallic pads provide, allows the rider to slow the bike in less time, which keeps the system cooler. This has been true in my experience. - RC |
Shimano Zee brakes can easily handle the heat transfer of sintered metallic pads. Zee OEM pads are resin types, while aftermarket brakes come with sintered metallic versions.
Well, first, let's talk about terminology. To 'dish' a wheel means to adjust its spoke tension with the end goal of having the rim sit equidistant between each side of the hub's axle end caps. This will allow it to be centered in the frame when the wheel is in the bike's dropouts. There are some bikes (yours isn't one of them) where the wheel has to be dished to the frame, which means it is tensioned so that it is closer to one side or the other of the hub. Truing a wheel is done to remove either lateral (side to side) or radial (up and down) misalignment. Wheels need to be trued much more often than dished - usually it's just one or two sections of the rim that the spoke tension needs to be adjusted on. For more information on wheel truing, this video can help. I'd guess that your wheels may just need to be trued, in which case I recommend walking into your local bike shop and asking the mechanics nicely if they could true your wheels (demanding is never a good tactic, especially when dealing with underpaid and overworked mechanics). Mechanics also appreciate tips, and bringing in some food or cold beverages when you pick up your bike will certainly be appreciated. I wouldn't worry about telling them how much you weigh, etc..., because a properly trued and tensioned wheel is the same whether you're 100 pounds or 200 pounds - those details would be more relevant if you were having a completely new wheelset built. - Mike Kazimer |
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Fox may trumps KSLev, but the rest?
Anyway, I run my GD turbo without the boot, no issue at all, and looks prettier too.
I agree that customers should not be demanding 99% of the time. But I find it ridiculous that in order for me to get good customer service I now have to kiss the bike shops ass and tip the bike mechanics ON TOP of the SERVICE CHARGE i'm already paying.
If your overworked and underpaid there's a simple solution...find another job, take your sob story elsewhere. Man up and do your job regardless if someone tips you or brings you a 6 pack of IPA. Most likely I just spent 6K on a new bike from your shop, they should be kissing my ass!!
Anyways one more reason to learn how to service your own bike, its easy and fun.
You don't have to tip anyone for anything, smile or say thank you, but in todays increasingly impersonal world a little kindness goes a long way!
Occasionally I need work done on my bike that I can't do at home (chased frames, bearings pressed, etc.) and almost always have the service performed while I wait or the same day - no matter what time of the year. Sliding a mechanic a 6 pack of tasty IPA's can sometimes mean the differences between being off your bike for a day vs.a week.
Now in that same situation If they offer to true my wheel with little to no charge in an hour before my ride then that may warrant a tip or 6pack of IPA.
see the difference? if they do me a favor I'll do them a favor...but dont assume for one minute that when a shop charges you to fix your bike that they are doing you some magical favor. your paying for it, your the customer, and the customer is always right. If you dont believe that then good luck in the business world.
If a customer comes in demanding that the shop fix their bike the shop has every right to charge that person top $...and the bike shop should be thankful for that persons business...not the other way around.
the idea is they are doing something with skill and precision you perhaps cannot do or not comfortable with. dont be a spoiled bitch and act like they owe you everything! show some respect and you will get it in return, if they are worth dealing with.
BTW, spoke tension is determined by the wheel build, not rider weight, yet you want a tip for me to teach you about the physics of wheel building? wTF?
Sorry? I don't think that is a long term answer to the issue of low wages. www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFnT4AbJLrw
m.huffpost.com/us/entry/5145636
I often don't even use that on my reverb on even the most technical downhill!
-sintered pads actually are more "powerful" (generate more friction at the pad / rotor interface) in wet conditions than in dry conditions
-check that your brake system can accept a sintered pad due to the extra heat generated, some cheaper or more XC orientated systems are designed only for use with organic pads
-check your disc rotor can accept a sintered pad, I have seen certain 'organic only' rotors quickly ruined by sintered pads
-organic pads can help with particular vibration "resonance" issues that affect certain combinations of bicycle frame, rotor and brake brand
-organic pads generally give a softer brake response, and can be ideal for the rear brake to avoid lock-up of the rear wheel, allowing more angular control into corners
The KSi900 has also been very reliable, but the moving cable is a pit of a pain when you've been used to the fixed cable on the gravity dropper.
I also have a stealth reverb, failed in first 6 months, lovely action when it works, but fragile lever.
I've currently got two new Lev 150mm posts, great bits of kit with fixed cable adjustable side, unfortunately both have failed in one way or another. One of them twice now.
I usually store my bikes with the post down, and on this occasion I remember I had come back from the mountains with it up and put it in my shed that way. The next day it would not go down easily. Could it be a change in the air pressure outside, or drastic temperature change that causes it? Just a guess, but it has not done it since. Seems that if it was a mechanical issue it would do it again and again.
If I had to pick one, I'd go with the Fox.
I'm a big fan of Gravity Dropper but decided to give YEP a go.
I've broken my stem. What do I do?
yours,
jędrzej