Bike check: Karim Amour's prototype Kona Abra Cadabra

Nov 18, 2011
by Matt Wragg  
If it involves gravity, Karim’s raced it. World Cup downhill, World Cup 4X, World Cup DS, Superenduro, Crankworx, Avalanche Cup, the list just goes on and on. These days you’re most likely to find him chasing podiums on the enduro circuit.

He’s been going hard for more years than we care to remind him of, yet if you had to pick one word to describe his approach to racing and riding it would be meticulous. He cares about all the little details, in his training, his diet and, of course, his bike. This is why companies likes Kona, Formula and Dainese use him as a test rider. We were lucky enough to grab a few minutes with him at this years Vibram Enduro of Nations to have him talk through his prototype Kona Abra Cadabra.

Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

Karim and his Kona Abra Cadbra. Although he has a few mods on his bike, the geometry is the same as the stock bike (he helped develop it after all). Kona wants this bike to be an off-the-peg enduro race bike and going by Karim's results on it, they've done a pretty good job of it.


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

Factory as you like...


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

The difference is in the details. On first glance this looks the same as the stock bike, but look closer and you realise that the linkage here runs on bearings, not bushings, to help it move more smoothly. We saw a few months ago Matt Slaven running an air shock for the Magic Link, Karim has been running the same prototype, but didn't have it with him this weekend.


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

Small details like cable routing don't get past Karim, this way they stay clean and out of the way. For the rest of us, you'd have to be pretty brave to put a drill to your headtube. Note that Kona does not condone or suggest drilling holes in your head tube!


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

1 x 10 is a pretty stock setup for the fast guys on the Superenduro circuit. That's a 34t chainring in there, coupled to an 11-36t block at the back. The carbon ring helps protect the cranks, so they won't deform in an impact.


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

This is a very cool little detail - sandpaper on the shifter blades so you don't slip when you're trying to make that important gear change.


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

Those are Easton's ultra-light (and ultra-expensive) carbon Haven rims to keep the weight down. No weight saving in the tyres though, 2.35 dual plys all the way, having something as stupid as a puncture ruin your race is just painful.


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

Although Reverb posts can be positioned in their travel, that little metal clip on the shaft means he can find his precise place in the travel every time. How's that for attention to detail?


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

To top it all off, a custom etched stem cap from the guys at the factory. Sweet.



  • The numbers:
  • Travel: 170mm front/160mm rear
  • Head angle: 67 degrees
  • Toptube: 580mm
  • Chainstays: 430mm
  • Bottom bracket: 345mm
  • Bar/stem: 750mm/55mm
  • Weight: 12.92kg (28.5lbs)


Bike check with Kona test rider Karim Amour

We did film this bike check with him, but the audio didn't come out. Things go that way sometimes...



Author Info:
mattwragg avatar

Member since Oct 29, 2006
753 articles

103 Comments
  • 17 2
 That is a pretty nasty bike there! I would love to have both the Abra Cadabra and the Coiler, they are awesome bikes.

Kona really stepped up their game with the Magic Link! tup
  • 25 4
 New Kona marketing campaign: www.pinkbike.com/photo/7403288
  • 2 1
 bwAHAHAH!
  • 8 3
 Dude the caption should be:

We heard you like shocks so we put a shock on your shock so your shock could shock while shocking. Big Grin
  • 6 30
flag tonycooper (Nov 19, 2011 at 12:29) (Below Threshold)
 kona.....i other words: CRAP
  • 4 0
 ^^ we dont need to start another kona flame fest
  • 5 0
 theres always gotta be a douchbag like you tonycooper
  • 1 5
flag deadatbirth (Nov 21, 2011 at 7:30) (Below Threshold)
 tonycooper isnt too far off
  • 2 3
 ^^ ugggghhhhh, its not about agreeing or disagreeing, its about not starting a flame fest, stopped selling kona a while back for good reasons but no need to get the shit flying
  • 13 0
 Go Kona! People complain that their newer frames break, and I broke mine, but they warrantied it no questions asked, and I bought it second hand! Good customer service!
  • 2 2
 im not sure if two cancel each other out.
  • 4 4
 i feel like if i broke a frame i would't keep riding the same frame regardless of who makes it. way to sketchy
  • 3 0
 bah, bought it used, and it was a good deal for what I got. The Magic link works pretty good.
  • 9 0
 minion front in back and wetscream in front ? wat is this witchcraft combo all about ...
  • 2 0
 I like it!!
  • 2 1
 I use the same setup sometimes Wink
  • 5 1
 no you dont !!!
  • 2 1
 Minion F works way better than the Minion R even in the rear. Enough braking traction, easier to accelerate, way better cornering. Wetscream in Front delivers plenty of grip in muddy conditions. So why not that way?

BTW One of the very few Kona's I do like.
  • 1 0
 Actually minion F in the rear has horrible braking traction when it gets steep but that combo still makes a lot of sesne for some tracks. Also the new DHR2 is the best of both worlds
  • 2 1
 heh I thought nothing brakes worse than HRoller... haven't checked Minion DHF as a back tyre in downhill yet, but Minion DHR is an anchor. HRoller is a laugh on the rear for my likes, not only brakes poor, it's less predictable when rear gets loose: you either rail like a boss, or eat sht
  • 1 0
 HR compared to the DHF is very good. DHF on the steeps looses traction very easily.
  • 8 0
 Sandpaper or griptape . . . you make the call
  • 4 0
 bearing in mind that most sandpaper doesn't come with an adhesive backing, I'd make the call for griptape.
Smile
  • 4 1
 Sandpaper is for hardcore riders.
  • 10 2
 yes because spray adhesive is extremely rare... Rolleyes
  • 3 0
 Takes more time to do that thought. Grip tape is just peel and stick. Razz
  • 37 1
 Wow, let's argue about this Wink
  • 1 1
 after missing a shift after my thumb slipped of the shifter, making me lose control of the bike a little and nearly have a serious bail, ive been meaning to get some grip tape. Hopefully i see this again in the spring...
  • 6 0
 I think its pretty clever If you are riding in a lot of mud and water. I just dont know about what It might do the thumb of my glove. Would't try this unless I was racing enduro's, lol .......and getting my gloves for free.
  • 3 0
 grippy glove destroyer.. not an issue at his level though. gloves and blingy bike parts gravitate to him.. I wish it worked like that for me too!
  • 3 0
 Can someone explain this?

"The carbon ring helps protect the cranks, so they won't deform in an impact"

The carbon ring isn't covering anything...

Very cool looking bike by the way Smile
  • 4 0
 I think that the idea is that it stiffens up the spider by providing a solid bridge between the chain ring bolts where thee ring attaches. Theoretically the individual arms are less likely to become damaged and/or bent upon impact if there is a small-diameter ring attaching them all together.
  • 1 0
 Seems a bit daft. Why not just make it slightly bigger and protect the chain/ chainring if "spider stiffness" is such a problem like a normal bash? May need a new chain device but seems like a much more sensible option. This guy rides harder than any of us though so what do we know Smile
  • 1 0
 Well he obviously has it on there for a reason. Also a larger bash guard will be less stiff than a smaller-OD ring like he has.
  • 1 0
 I think that the carbon ring is really there to protect the 4 crank spider arms so that the chainring can bend and be straighted on the spot but the crank themselves cant really bend. Because in a race run a broken crank arm is race over but a chainring can be bent back into place fairly easily if no bashguard is in the way. Hope this makes sense!
  • 1 0
 He runs an LG1+ its got a guard to protect the chain-ring. The carbon-ring, as stated in the article keeps the spider stiff so that it does not deform on impact. It is curious though, I mean, you would have to blow through the guide plate to take a direct hit to the chainring. That being said, you can actually see impact damage to his carbon ring, perhaps its there for side hit type of scenarios? You clip a rock through a tight section and instead of bending the chain ring or spider on your crank it just deflects?
  • 2 0
 Obviously I know far less than Karim and Kona about bikes, but to me, it seems like it's just there instead of chainring bolt spacers and looks pretty. The idea that a thin carbon ring can stiffen an aluminium spider sounds like rubbish to me.
  • 4 2
 It has bearings instead of bushing what kind half ass operation is kona running. So every bike kona sells of this model if you are not pro get bushings for you linkage what a brilliant idea.
  • 4 0
 Did you know that Intense also using bushings in their lower linkages? As do many other companies.
  • 2 1
 My 951 dose not have bushings in my lower link. it has bearings on the frame and rear triangle.
  • 1 1
 @tomchurch

look at the epic FAIL Banshee have had with their 'bushing' virtual pivot bikes - they are moving back to ball bearings as soon as possible Wink
  • 2 0
 My Uzzi had bushings.
  • 1 0
 is this the stock frame geometry? is head angle now 67 degr. in stead of 68 degr. because of the 170mm fork in stead of the 150mm fork that comes stock on the bike?
  • 1 0
 is this the stock frame geometry? is head angle now 67 degr. in stead of 68 degr. because of the 170mm fork in stead of the 150mm fork that comes stock on the bike?
  • 3 0
 Add a soundtrack/narrator to that video and put it here anyway :-)
  • 2 0
 You can also go here to see the Enduro team in action: vimeo.com/25968841
  • 1 0
 wt. is 28.5 lbs? bike with dropper seatpost,crankbrother mallet pedal ,maxxis tires and 170 mm travel fork.
  • 1 0
 Seems legit for me.
  • 1 0
 What fork is that? Rock Shox of some kind, no?
  • 1 0
 Lyrik
  • 3 0
 Sexy Bike Drool
  • 2 0
 why is he running a long cage rear derailleur on a 1x10 setup?
  • 5 0
 because hes that awesome
  • 2 1
 In order to run a big cassette in the rear you need to either have a medium or large cage depending how big you go.
  • 5 1
 finaly someone agreeing with my point of view on this one, I've been boo-ed so many times for btchn on short cages on 11-36 cassettes. I have a short cage and it's not working well, you get too much tension on 36T and almost completely retracted derailleur on 11T resulting in next to no chain tension. On top of that you get bad shifting performance on both ends of gear range. Boo, short cage is the best because you have smaller chance bladi fkn bla - no it fkn isn't! It does work but not as well as middle or long cage, period
  • 2 0
 WAKI your bike must be set up wrong because every bike I've ever owned with a single ring up front, I have used a short cage derailleur when I could. Right now I use a short cage X.9 derailleur with an 11-36x34t set up and it shifts flawlessly.
  • 2 0
 Aren't long cages made for a drivetrains with 3 chain rings up front?
  • 1 0
 It doesnt really matter what size you run. I know a guy running a long cage SRAM X0 deraileur for the past 2 years and he still hasnt smashed it.
  • 1 0
 No my bike is setup right, one guy once sent me a pic of his short cage, at 36T fully extended at 11T and it was nearly fully retracted, cage jockey wheel almost touching cassette - so he had it exactly the same way as me = WRONG. 32T up front on 11-36T cassette, mrp g2 sl mini, only one link taken away from a new chain out of the box. Long cage might be an overkill but short cage for 1x? is too short.

That is the mentioned bad example, exactly as mine
www.pushbike.se/addon.php?3,module=embed_images,file_id=3638
  • 3 0
 Short cage for 1x9-10 is definitely not too short. Like I said I have always run a short cage with a 1x set up, with both 9 and 10-speed derailleurs. It allows me to maintain perfect chain tension regardless of what gear I'm in and provides smooth, quick shifts.

Here it is in the highest gear:
www.pinkbike.com/photo/6779981

And here it is in the lowest:
www.pinkbike.com/photo/6779982

As you can see the chain is in perfect tension for both gears.
  • 2 0
 My friends and I all run 1x9-10 with short cage after starting with mid or long cages. Short cages simply work/feel better and keep the chain at a better tension...
  • 1 0
 Derailleur cage length explained.

forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/when-use-long-cage-vs-short-cage-derailleur-205890.html. (clickable hyperlinking??)

I found this very helpful when I was contemplating going to a medium cage with my 2x9 setup. Much happier with the medium. Shifting is crisp now.
  • 1 0
 Link fail.

Of course cage length also depends on the chain stay length, style of pivot (or lack thereof), and gear ratio. For example: a drivetrain on a bike with a suspension design that causes the rear axle to move away from the bottom bracket upon compression should probably utilize a medium cage derailleur in order to compensate for the lengthening of the wheel base and subsequent shortening/tightening of the chain. But 9 times out of 10, one can follow the general rule of thumb that defines short cage for a 1x, medium cage for a 2x, and long cage for a 3x.
  • 1 0
 i run 1x9 and run a long cage mech, works best with a wide spread of gears at the rear
  • 1 0
 Short cage on a 9-speed cassette is fine for all gear ratios except for 11-36.
  • 1 0
 There isno such thing as a short cage XTR derailleur - sadly.
  • 1 0
 Actually you can use a Saint short cage on XTR 9-speed Shadow derailleurs.
  • 2 0
 @WAKIdesigns It sounds like someones compensating for something... I run a short cage AND i use to drive my mothers minivan. No confidence issues here! Smile
  • 3 0
 People.... I may be able to shed some light. Short cage is usually good for any 1x9/10. A short cage from SRAM has a 25t allowancce.... meaning the difference between the front rings added to the difference of the rear cassette (subtract smallest of each from biggest and add together) must be 25 or less. Using a 1x9/10 setup means that you get 0 for the front plus 25 (36-11) which is 25. This therefore is on the limit of the der and so on some frames it may work and others not. if you are running a 11-34 or 11-32 you wont get this problem.

Hope this helps!!!
  • 2 0
 Probably because with the "Magic Link" the chainstay grows by alot when the little coil shock thing is fully compressed.

Someone said something to this effect above but I thought I might clarify.
  • 1 0
 That is a good point, willsoffe. Like I said, depending on the suspension design it may be necessary to use a longer cage with a 1x setup.
  • 1 0
 11x36 is exactly at the end of the range of short cage, I don't need to read manufacturers charts for that, I can see it with my own eyes on my own bike. One chain link too much - cage will rub on cassette, one too little, you will snap the chain on longer travel bike (like my Nomad) on first pump on 36T - zero chain link tolerance - that's a clue, Hellooo!

Medium cage has slightly wider range therefore it provides better chain tension on 11T and it will accomodate more chain growth on 36T. So it is fkng better, but not as gravity-cool I know.
  • 2 0
 looks like a pretty short stroke shock for a 150mm travel bike
  • 1 0
 Agreed! And it's actually 160mm. Leverage ratio must be horrendously high!
  • 1 0
 its only the main shock 100mm travel on the air shock the other 60mm is on the magic link coil from what i understand which should make the leverage ratio pretty good actually. i havent ridden one yet but i had a 08 coilair supreme and it was a sweet bike .
  • 1 0
 Nope, the magic link changes the pivot point and leverage ratio.
  • 1 0
 I understand what your saying, however the leverage ratio is still very high in the 160mm setting.
  • 1 0
 Willsoffe is on it, in short travel mode it has a lower ratio so is stiffer, in the long travel mode it has a very high leverage ratio... over 3:1
  • 1 0
 "NICE RIG", LIKE THE IDEA OF DRILLING TWO HOLES BUT DEF NOT FOR ME - www.cycledoc.ie
  • 2 0
 2165.60 AUD... CRC very tempted.
  • 1 0
 Need some help here from keen eyes. What fork is Slaven rocking here? It looks like it's more than the recommended 150mm....
  • 1 0
 whoops, meant Amour
  • 1 0
 that Enduro Collar comes stock with the Reverbs now
  • 1 0
 Whats the extra ring on the cranks for ?? Offsets the chainring?
  • 2 2
 Konas are looking good again!
  • 1 0
 I'll take one!!!
  • 1 3
 Whats the travel on that bike? It does not look to big.
  • 4 0
 you don't exactly need 8 inches for enduro Razz
  • 1 0
 Still good to know. any ideas....
  • 5 0
 "Travel: 170mm front/160mm rear"
  • 2 0
 Cheers
  • 1 1
 The ML allows the use of a smaller shock, and a smaller rocker. Quite smart. Smile
  • 2 0
 What exactly is the point? weight? a smaller stroke will reduce sensitvity and effective adjustments on the shock
  • 2 0
 It only has full travel on descents, so it pedals better uphill.
  • 2 0
 Hey guys, check out the link for a lowdown on the virtues of Magic Link.
2011.konaworld.com/page.cfm?content=magic
  • 1 0
 Didnt think of it that way, makes sense now
  • 3 0
 I bought the Abra Cadabra last year and love the ride. It has handled everything I have put it through, albeit short of heading to Keystone or a true park. To me, it has covered everything that Kona said it would. I have had some issues with wear on the Magic Link shock and missed out on the slacker head angle on the newer model which were small prices to be paid in my opinion. Kona quickly helped me out by replacing the shaft within a couple of days. My biggest beef is with the name! Abra Cadabra? come on! All I hear is my riding buddies singing Steve Miller.
  • 1 0
 You think the Hocus Pocus would have been better?
  • 2 3
 Looks like a Kona!
  • 1 0
 gee what gave it away
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